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944S Boyeee's Avatar
 
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How long should this take........????

Here is what I'm getting done.

Left rear CV axle removed, outter CV joint repacked with new boot added.

Right rear CV axle removed and transaxle seal (round hard plastic one) replaced.

I'm going to flip the axle's and switch them from one side to the other.

How long should this take a fella, and what is the shop time approximately?

944S Boyeee
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1989 928S4 Canadian Edition
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Old 04-02-2003, 12:23 PM
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Shouldn't take more than an hour or so provided the bolts come right out.

Shoptime - figure 1.5 - 2 hrs

This is an easy DIY.

AFJuvat
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Old 04-02-2003, 01:01 PM
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If I can pull my whole tranny in about an hour 15 min I'm sure that could be done in under 1.5 hours
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Old 04-02-2003, 01:03 PM
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The shop wants 2 hours for the right side and 1.4 for the left.......

DIY sounds really good at this point!

944S Boyeee
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Old 04-02-2003, 01:09 PM
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what's DIY stand for?

944s-boyee, I can't lick my elbow either
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Old 04-02-2003, 01:15 PM
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DIY=Do It Yourself
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Old 04-02-2003, 01:23 PM
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does it really matter if you take the axles off repair them and then put them back on in a diff. position?, looking at it i dont see how it matters being all symetrical looking.
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Old 04-02-2003, 02:01 PM
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Juvy, you forgot the beverage consumption factor, buddy in the shop factor, Boyee in the bongsqueezins again factor. Myself, I'd dedicate an afternoon for it, before I became Ultra Ahole, the &uumlberass. Now noone ever interrupts my workings in the garage. I remember this Gordon fella, and, in a J.D. haze, recollections of a SouthPaw driver...mayber it was SoldCalvin Divot...something like that.
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*Disclaimer: The person above is actually dumber than he appears.
my web site Torque values maintainance and repairs lots of my rebuild pics weights and measurements
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Old 04-02-2003, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JH924S
does it really matter if you take the axles off repair them and then put them back on in a diff. position?, looking at it i dont see how it matters being all symetrical looking.
Some folks feel that, since the wear is directional, swapping ends balances the wear in both directions (we at the horde call them "Directionalies") The other school feels that if you pack it with grease often enough, it doesn't make a hoot. (We call those "Lubticians" or "Dinovarians") Me, they just call "idiot".
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*Disclaimer: The person above is actually dumber than he appears.
my web site Torque values maintainance and repairs lots of my rebuild pics weights and measurements
'84 944 auto/ps/ac/cc
'86 951
Providing ignorance one post at a time.
Old 04-02-2003, 08:19 PM
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Ahhh yes the beverage consumption factor:

"HoneybringmeaGuinnesscuzthisboltisabit*h"

I have been known, from time to time, to suffer a case of überass. Normally it is when something that should be so damn &*#@%*$ SIMPLE just won't come out.

As certainly as the lord made little green apples, that is when my wife (P\N 666.123.527.01A, Spousal unit, 1 EA) Comes out and always starts asking questions...

"Why are you cursing at the car?"
"What'cha doing?"
"Is it supposed to look like that?"
"If that vein on your forhead pops, I'm not cleaning it up."

In all seriousness, the jury is out on swapping CVs - sometimes it works, other times it doesn't.

3.4 hours to swap CVs seems a little excessive to me.

Caution: Make sure you have the right tool to remove CV bolts - stripping and the subsequent grinding\extracting of broken CV bolts is 100% guaranteed to bring out a severe case of überass, not to mention take the better part of a day

AFJuvat
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Old 04-02-2003, 10:27 PM
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When it comes to tight CV joint cheesehead bolts, I first give it a moderate torque with a well seated drive. If it does not turn, I then grab the exterior of the cheesehead with a pair of vise grips. Then I reinsert the hex/spline drive 180 degrees apart. I then apply same torque on both breaker bar and vise grips simultaneously. The vise grips and breaker bar make kind of a tee handle. This method has been successful for me.
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Old 04-03-2003, 03:50 AM
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It took me three or four hours to do mine. I bought the axels with CV's allready greased. If you have to repack them add an hour or so.

Its real messy but not complicated. Lots of brake cleaner and rags. The bolts can be a PITA. Make sure you clean out the bolt head and seat the 12 point socket with a nice hard tap of a hammer. You can reuse the old bolts but if there is even slight wear or damage buy new bolt. It will prevent many ugly future posts that will begine with OH CRAP!!!!

As for swaping the axels its up to you. If there is wear on the joints it will probably help. Make sure to use the proper grease.

I seem to remember taking a lump or two when trying to get the first bolt or two lined up. I think the CV slipped out of the transmission side, but its a little fuzzy now.........OH CRAP!
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Old 04-03-2003, 04:37 AM
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flipping CVs.

Ive never heard of the reason for this. Correct me if im wrong, but the inside CV closest to the muffler is generally your first one to go... then the other inside CV. I've replaced more inside CVs than outside. If your car has some miles on it... while you have the CV off, id replace the seal/bearing on the inside CV cup. its real easy. That seal went for me.. and dripped gear oil on the inside CVs which made a real mess.
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Old 04-03-2003, 01:43 PM
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Took it to the shop and got dinged for 2.5 hours labour to get it done, but that did include some work to stop a small coolant leak also, so it's not that bad.

castlesteve - both my transaxle seals were bad when they did this work. I got new ones from Porsche but the guy putting them in said they were to small cause they went in "too easy". They must have given me the ones for the 944 N/A (I have an S), unless there is no difference between the two, which means the guy was wrong. Either way, when he put it back together, he said he could push the seals in a bit more than where they were when he took them out and the leaks were minimized. I'm going to get two new seals and put them in.

Just curious, when these seals go, where does the gear fluid leak to? Does it actually go inside the CV or will it run out and drip off the bottom of the differencial housing also?

944S Boyeee
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:01 AM
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the CV cup (on the 951 transaxle anyway) pretty much seals the CV side from the gears... except where the bolt goes through the bearing and seal... if the seal goes bad, it will leak both around the bolt and into the CV... and outside the seal (which will get on the outside of the CV and splash everything under the car... plthhh

mine went in very easily... but they were not loose (last i recall). I believe the S tranny is in fact differnt than the N/A and turbo ends... and might take a different seal.
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:38 AM
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Hey, how about listing the torque rating for the Cheese heads.. so they don't breaky....
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:45 AM
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I think it's 40N.

944S Boyeee
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:53 AM
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I think the torque rating is 33 or 35 ft-lb. If no one knows for sure, I'll look it up tonight when I get home.
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Old 04-04-2003, 07:58 AM
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THank.. you..
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Old 04-04-2003, 08:02 AM
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A newton-meter is 0.7376 ft-lb.
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Old 04-04-2003, 08:04 AM
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