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tools

What's the difference between the Porsche timing belt tensioning tool compared to a regular one? Will a normal one work? Does anybody have a picture of the Porsche one?
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Old 04-05-2003, 08:35 PM
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The porsche tool is specially made for the 944 series. I don't think there's any other like it, nor do I think there could be a good substitute. Because first off, the instructions on the manual tell you to precisely the position where to check tension (so if you have a tensioning tool of diferent dimensions it will be off). And secondly, the units it measures in aren't labeled, nor does it say in any manual. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.





Here's a pic of mine.
Old 04-05-2003, 09:23 PM
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Here's where they can be bought:

http://www.**********.com/item.wws?sku=00072192010&mfr=Vertex&cookieID=0RP085NYA

$398
Old 04-05-2003, 09:33 PM
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I have a friend with a Lotus Espirit who has seen me use the tool and said his lotus uses the same one.

I dont think it was made specially for the 944, series just for cars that require very precise belt tension.

Ed
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Old 04-06-2003, 12:23 PM
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Having just done much research before a belt replacement first thing after buying an '86, here is my take on the tension gage:

-tensioning the belt by feel is not good enough
-one Porsche tension unit is essentially 10 pounds
-with a possible error of 40%, the P-gage can be off 16 lb
-In my opinion the P-gage is overrated to the point of having become some sort of magic ritual object.
-for $11, the Krikit One (not 2) gage is easy to read to within 2-3 lb and with care and practice (8-10 tries) will give consistent readings.

I tried the Krikit on the old belt to get an idea of how to use it. The Krikit said it was too tight, and I had to agree since the water pump bearing was leaking after 8K miles. The car is now running with the belts set by the Krikit. Works for me.
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Old 04-07-2003, 10:25 AM
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I use Krikit and get consistent readings with it. It is not for the ham fisted.
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Old 04-07-2003, 10:40 AM
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alright, I'll test the guage tommorow in my physics lab just to see what units its' in (I have a hunch its' in Nm). One very important thing to know is that just knowing the weight to move the guage 1 unit is NOT ENOUGH! lbs. won't cut it! That's why I think alot of you guys screw up the tensioning of you belts with the kricket! You need to know a distance between the two points of a belt you are testing(hence the meter part) .
Also, I'm curious to know where to find that the P-tool is 40% off?!? hope this helps!
Old 04-07-2003, 10:51 AM
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I agree that to make a measurement with any of these gages you apply a force and deflect the belt some distance, but that is not what we're interested in. For a given deflection @ force the gage dial can be calibrated to read directly in units of belt tension, and it is. Draw the free-body diagram of the gage and the belt; imagine the belt is cut with a weight suspended from it and the gage applied in the middle. It will look like a toggle mechanism but in tension. The Krikit, incidentally, is calibrated in lbs and Kg (we know they mean daN) tension.

The 40% variation is something I read on this list and just found again. Scott R said "My mechanic who also lets me borrow his 9201 also stated that the 9201 had a 30-40% variance".
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Old 04-07-2003, 07:45 PM
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I think no matter which one you use, technique is of supreme importance.
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Old 04-08-2003, 02:38 AM
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I haven't used any gauge to do the timing/balance shaft belts on my 944, drove it about 40k (or was it 45k) after belt change, without any problems. I've done the turbo roughly 9k miles ago, also problem free.
Ahmet
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Old 04-08-2003, 03:07 AM
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After being in the auto sevice industry for 22 year and dealing with toothed drive belts, on a daily basic. I real do think that the porsche belt tool is way over rated. Do you guys real think that these belts are any different from other tooth belts on other cars. After using your belt tools learn to feel it's tension, after a while of doing this you will develop a feel for just where the belt is at. They sure have made a lot of money out of this little tool.Does that mean they are smarter than we are ?
but Just the same it does pay to use the right tool, if your not sure.
Yes i do have the special PORSCHE tool 9201, but i never use it now.

Kind Regards Tasdevil
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Old 04-08-2003, 03:35 AM
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It's not the belts that are different, it's the application. Most engines are not all aluminum and so do not grow as much as the 944 engine. In order not to prematurely wear out water pumps and bearings, the belt must be set when cold near its minimum usable tension. That means that the latitude available when tensioning belts in other cars is used up by the expansion of the engine. That is why the belt on a 944 must be set more precisely.

I think a shop doing this work is understandably more interested in avoiding immediate failures due to under-tension than in the very long term life of the bearings. It's not difficult to set a belt by feel to the mid range of it's useful tension and be safe. At least that is what appears to have been done to my car before I bought it.
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Old 04-08-2003, 10:06 AM
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On the other board (rennlist), someone who has both the kricket and the porsche tool compared both of the tools on the same belt. He set the belt using the porsche tool then checked it several times. He also did it the proper way of turning back 1.5 teeth. He then took 10 reading with the kricket tool. The kricket tool gave consistent readings. Check out the thread.
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Old 04-08-2003, 11:54 AM
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WOW, I'm getting really mixed messages about this. I talked to the porsche mechanic here and he said that he does it to feel. Does anybody have a link to the rennlist board, I don't remember the address for it. Where can I buy one of the kricket things? What do I tighten it to?
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Old 04-08-2003, 12:51 PM
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NAPA sells the Krikit, however they only stock the Krikit 2 which you don't want as it is meant for much higher tensions. They can get the Krikit 1 the next day. I paid under $12 for mine. Practice on your old belts and check out this web site: http://www.blaszakprecision.com/ This guy sells a German version of the tool and has tension recommendations and pictures of how to use it.
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Old 04-08-2003, 07:35 PM
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Like I said before, I get consistent readings with Krikit. Hovever, it is easy to bump it when removing from the belt. If you bump it, you will not get consistent readings. You must also place it on the belt in the same direction at close to the same place each time you use it. Make sure you push it perpendicular to the belt. You can see its position in Blaszak's web site. Insert a finger in the rubber loop so you can control the tool and easily remove the tool after it "snaps through".
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Old 04-09-2003, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Lawrence Coppari
Like I said before, I get consistent readings with Krikit. Hovever, it is easy to bump it when removing from the belt. If you bump it, you will not get consistent readings. You must also place it on the belt in the same direction at close to the same place each time you use it. Make sure you push it perpendicular to the belt. You can see its position in Blaszak's web site. Insert a finger in the rubber loop so you can control the tool and easily remove the tool after it "snaps through".

Blaszak's method is dead on, like the above post quoted I have used both tools side by side with the Krikit being a bit more accurate than the 9201.

Whats even worse is how terribly innacurate the so called "auto tensioner" is on my 87 951, that thing runs higher than the recommended tension as well. I actually have to release the spring load, then back it off a bit to get it it perfect, and it's a new tensioner unit.
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Old 04-09-2003, 06:34 AM
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I used the krikit and it ran. Too bad it knocks...yet again, I HATE MY CAR! But this one was my stupidity and I have officially shot myself in the foot...looks like the car is going bye-bye
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Old 04-09-2003, 02:43 PM
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