89 951 Broken exhaust stud!

Kary · 07-02-2000, 07:29 PM

Anybody have any idea how to get the exhaust header out? I've pulled the hardware loose, but it looks like the engine will have to be tilted to one side in order to get enough clearance for the the header to slip off of the remaining studs. I don't have any maintenence manuals yet because I just purchased the car a week ago and the wife had a coronary when I told her how much they cost! Thanks-----Kary Rutschman

Lawrence Coppari · 07-03-2000, 03:45 AM

I just got through doing that with the stud that is closest the firewall. You can get header out without tilting engine. Take 2,3 out first. It will pass between 1 and 4 and the engine. Remove fuel line from rail and tie it out of the way. 1,4 will come out by turning it just so. It took me some time to rotate the header just right so it would come out.

As for the stud, I would try pecking on it with a punch. If that does not work, use a Snap On Blue Point stud extractor. But be careful and drill the bolt in the center. I ended up using a right angle drill bit extension with a flexible drive. My wife held the drill while I did the drilling. I had to buy a cobalt drill bit to drill the stud. Anyway, I misdrilled the stud so the extractor did not get it out. I eventually cut it out with a Dremel tool with a TC bit followed by a diamond bit. I lost about 40 degrees of two threads but that is a small percentage. If you are more careful than I, the screw extractor will work. Use the Snap On or something equivalent. It is not tapered. If you break off an EZ out, you have a mess.

It was recommended that the head be removed for the job. That is probably good advice. I chose not to do it, however. It is safer to do it that way but more labor intensive plus you have to buy a new head gasket.

Mine is an '86 turbo.

Kary · 07-03-2000, 05:36 AM

Thanks Larwrence, I noticed the slot in the #2 pipe but didn't realize it seperated like that. Anybody know what the largest width of wheel that will fit on the back of the turbo car and still function properly?--Kary

Lawrence Coppari · 07-03-2000, 07:09 AM

I wonder if the stud broke because some of the other nuts loosened. If the thing can move around, it may well cause a fatigue failure of the stud. My 1-4 (no bellows) original header had cracked but I lived with it. At the track the car began making a lot of exhaust noise and lost power. Inspection revealed the broken stud and a backed off locking nut on same port which would allow vibration/fatigue. I replaced the header with a newer bellows variety that I bought used from a friend. You might think about using new lock nuts when you reinstall. It has become a check off item on my list now.

Good luck with the stud.

Lawrence Coppari · 07-03-2000, 07:17 AM

I forget to tell you that you have to remove the studs to get the headers off. Double nut them and unscrew in that manner. If they won't budge, use Loctite Red thread locker after you clean them up.

Replace all studs - i.e. buy new ones. Make a mental note about which set of threads goes in block. The number of threads is different on each half of the studs. Screw threads in all the way so threads are not outside the head. If the threads extend beyond the head, you effectively have notched the bolt and it will fatigue/break much faster. Notches raise stress levels which affect fatigue rates.

[This message has been edited by Lawrence Coppari (edited 07-03-2000).]