968 - thinking about spring plate bushings

[universeman]

Guys,

I have the parts (Elephant Racing rubber) to replace my 92 968 spring plates. I'm having trouble getting psyched up to do the job though, looks like a PITA.

What encouragement can you who have done it give? Worth the trouble? Ride quality/handling? Thoughts?

Thanks! Just trying to get a little discussion going.

[9FF]

IMO it ranks as one of the most awkward and least satisfying jobs to do and the effect is negligible. Much like another job I hate doing which is torque tube bearings. Still 30yo suspension rubber is not conducive to sharp handling so there is that. If you were to upgrade the torsion bars at the same time that may provide more incentive.

[universeman]

Thanks @9FF. I'm trying to determine whether my ride is 'normal' or degraded, based on what I feel in the car. I've redone all bushings up front and checked ball joints, etc., and front ride is sharp and compliant. Rear ride is jarring and harsh, much more so than front. I'm thinking those bushings are the culprit but could it be something else? Shocks, trailing arm bushings, what do folks experience?

Also - what torsion bar setup would you recommend for these cars? Just curious what effects those have. Again I can search, just seeing if people want to discuss this topic.

[thomasryan]

i used the stock compound from chuck at elephant. the design is archaic but the ride and cornering predictability was improved immensely with new plate bushings.

worst case, the torsion bar and spring plate are touching the carrier end plate cap.

[Stoneguy]

Universeman,
I also was going to replace the spring plate bushings. After a lot of research , it really looked like a pita as you stated. I decided to just get new stock spring plates and replace the whole thing. In my case, I believe it was a good decision. Look at it this way, the extra cost of the spring plates was more than offset by the saving of time, degree of difficulty, cussing, busted knuckles and aggravation. If you just want to ride stock, Thats my suggestion.
Good luck.

[thomasryan]

a 968 is much easier than the 44s as the skirt/cladding can be pulled out a bit. the hardest part is rotating around the safety tabs. you can lower one side at a time but dropping the whole thing is easier.

set all 4 corners with the car level and use an inclinometer on the spring plate with the stop removed. each one up, one down step on the splines is 0.8 degrees. don't measure from the fenders. use the suspension pick up mounting points to the floor and the unloaded angle.

drop the tail pipe. I just cut the bolts and replace them if they are rusted. copper locking VW exhaust nuts are cheap.

a wire wheel will chew the rubber off. steel then soft a soft brass wheel so the plating isn't disturbed as much. (real brass not plated.) do wear a respirator if you get into the plating.

shaving the bushing for the weld helps seat the new bushing flush. all thread is useful to sandwich everything.

you'll need to align the rear prior to aligning the front so toe tool at the minimum. you can mark the interface but it will change with fresh bushings.

[universeman]

Wow thanks thomasryan, great stuff! Is the job worth doing, in your experience?