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924/44 rear glass hatch dims
Hi, everyone.
As with may, the glass started to separate from frame. I assume that it was pulled by about 1/4" from the frame and glass's edge is visible. I would like to compare my current, "stretched dimensions of exterior glass surface between metal frame with yours. Attached is a picture with dimensions and dim's location. I think that I would need to tighten the hatch frame by about 1/4" in order to tuck in the glass. I don't know if it was done by any of you before. The way I see it, I;ll have to lube mating surfaces of glass and frame (top) and gently (but surely) "squeeze" the top and bottom frame (at hinges/latches_ points). Hopefully the glass won't crack. ![]()
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1973 914 yellow (retired) 1987 924S white no sunroof Last edited by knabini; 12-16-2020 at 05:53 PM.. Reason: two pictures |
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One or two thoughts: The frame stretches at the side bend and probably should have been designed with additional reinforcing, and also the rear lip of the hatch may no longer seal with the body causing an air leak. Good Luck, I hope you figure out a way.
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[QUOTE=knabini;11145299]Hi, everyone.
As with may, the glass started to separate from frame. I assume that it was pulled by about 1/4" from the frame and glass's edge is visible. I would like to compare my current, "stretched dimensions of exterior glass surface between metal frame with yours. Attached is a picture with dimensions and dim's location. I think that I would need to tighten the hatch frame by about 1/4" in order to tuck in the glass. I don't know if it was done by any of you before. The way I see it, I;ll have to lube mating surfaces of glass and frame (top) and gently (but surely) "squeeze" the top and bottom frame (at hinges/latches_ points). Hopefully the glass won't crack. Will be pretty hard to fix & do a decent job so,why don't you look for a good use on on the ...924/944/968 Used Parts Classified ...here on the forum ......Top of the page as you come on the forum,good luck ![]()
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Caraquet,N.B. Canada. |
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944 addict
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There's been so many articles on various forums about this issue. The piston rods that hold the hatch up actually push the hatch away from the upper part of the aluminum frame when it's down. The frame is soft and due to UV degradation from the sun, it's just a matter of time before the hatch glass comes unglued and migrates to the rear. Some owners have done away with the supports and chosen to use a wooden or plastic pole to hold it up when open.
There are also many posts on how to reglue the glass, some successful some not. Good luck.
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3 944's, 2 Boxsters and one Caman S, and now one 951 turbo. Really miss the Cayman. Some people try to turn back their "odometers." Not me. I want people to know 'why' I look this way. I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved. |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Upstate New York
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No hatch regluing that I am aware of was still working after two years.
I carry a broomstick for propping up the hatch, and it never leaked, and never will.
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Good luck, George Beuselinck |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 21
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I just resealed my hatch this weekend. The frame was (what I’ll call) outside original dimensions as the OP has experienced. I’ll second or third what others have said here; the frame is not strong enough on its own to hold its shape. Bending it just won’t help.
To give you an idea on the flexibility of the frame, when I noticed that the top of the frame should was out of position because of “stretching” I used masking tape to pull and hold it toward the glass as the urethane cured. I’ve tried to do a partial reseal and it simply doesn’t work. When I did mine this weekend I did my best to do everything correctly. Epoxy primer on the frame, the $26 glass primer with careful masking...I was meticulous. It was not the most fun job and I don’t want to do it again! |
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Kessel run in 12 parsecs!
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Chuck it and buy a Strosek hatch kit..
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Getting old sucks, bring back the good old days, this new stuff is for the birds.. |
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Kessel run in 12 parsecs!
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Getting old sucks, bring back the good old days, this new stuff is for the birds.. |
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[QUOTE=Ernie944;11145759]
Quote:
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Caraquet,N.B. Canada. |
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Misunderstood User
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I have been on this forum since 2006 and I don't recall anyone having great success re-gluing a hatch.
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Jim 1983 944n/a 2003 Mercedes CLK 500 - totaled. Sanwiched on the Kennedy Expressway |
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This thread is more than disheartening...
My hatch had delaminated prior to my ownership at the forward/top section; it was causing water leakage, wind noise and misalignment at the hatch pins (with major bump squeaks which prompted me to action). In July 2019, I removed the hatch, separated the glass from the rest of the frame and did a major cleaning down to bare glass/aluminum (a major PITA, requiring over 15 hours of effort). I reglued using 3M 590 glass adhesive, 3M primer, 3M glass cleaner and 3M instructions. With the frame reinstalled and aligned on the car, I set the glass on (more hours of effort). With 7K miles since then, the glue job is holding (no delaminations that I can tell). If it delaminates again, I probably will not attempt repair. I believe that delamination may in part be an effect of how the hatch is closed: I apply gentle pressure with a hand over each latch pin to close the hatch. Peter
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1968 912 SW Targa (Restoration: almost Tangerine again) 1986 951 2013 Cayenne Diesel |
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To the OP......After reading some off the respond about trying to DIY this repair I'll still stick with my response ,PITA job,,lost of time & money, so go buy a good use one ,there is chance that it will last longer ,most of them for sale come without hardware so you'll probaly will have to use your old one after giving them a good clean up.Take care
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Caraquet,N.B. Canada. |
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In 2006 my 944 was vandalized and the glass in of the hatch was completely shattered. My car was garage kept and the frame was flawless. I looked to replace the hatch - new which wasn't to be had. I had an opportunity to buy the rear glass hatch without frame (it was new) and I passed on it because of the issues trying to bond the glass and frame together.
I finally bought a used hatch from a person who was parting out a 944. It is not as nice as mine - there are some scratches in the glass but the frame is still in tact. I agree with Ernie, find a good used one - just be more picky than I was.
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Jim 1983 944n/a 2003 Mercedes CLK 500 - totaled. Sanwiched on the Kennedy Expressway |
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Kessel run in 12 parsecs!
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Come to think of it, I do believe my metal hatch frame has shifted a tad bit. I have a little whammy on the top the body thats small but noticable to me. I think I can bend it back a little to get better clearance. I had a 87 camaro which had a larger glass back, and it was easy to adjust. The 944 not so much, keep at it...
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Getting old sucks, bring back the good old days, this new stuff is for the birds.. |
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The hatch glass was delaminated on my car. I went to a glass shop who also does a lot of specialty auto glass projects. He had helped me replace the windshield on my Cobra a couple years ago. He has repaired many a 944 hatches. Said the UV from the sun tends to break down the urethane glue plus the pressure from the struts. So at the top where the urethane glue is exposed to sunlight thru the glass he painted on the exterior of the glass to help protect it from the sun. Cost was about $400.
John
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John 1986 944 NA Black on Black 1966 Cobra Roadster Replica Silver no stripes |
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yes, i agree, do not replace the shocks if you haven't done any reinforcements in the glass/frame/hinge . It will hinder the structure and cause more damage/leaks and non closure of the latch assembly. I have done the full adjustment of this rear glass and replace the the latch posts. I happened to have a spare car but it was not a simple task. Removing all the trim is very time consuming. This is a double curve glass. Be careful! It will cost $ if you crack it. Release the shocks with a helper, then remove the hinges (screws) in the top inner and move the glass to a safe place to do the frame work. Do not damage the rubber spoiler or its assembly, It Is $$$. Remove, repair, and reseal with Ultra Black. While curing the "Ultra Black" I recommend the glass be attached and locked (without the shocks installed) and in a ambient temperature for drying before attaching the shocks.
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so, no one could give me the hatch measurements?
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Is there a way to use the glass dimensions since the glass doesn't stretch? The hatches on my cars are both stretched and the measurements wouldn't be correct.
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djnolan, hard to tell the "proper" frame size from the glass dims alone, because we don't really know how much the frame overlaps glass by (at the top section of frame). Maybe the proper dims of glass (visible) at the hinges could be 38 1/2" or even less - 38 1/4".
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1973 914 yellow (retired) 1987 924S white no sunroof |
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This is indeed disheartening. This problem is so ubiquitous that if someone could come up with a reliable fix, I'm certain that such a product would have great sales potential.
Hmmm...What about designing some kind of metal bracket, running the length of the upper hinge, which would clamp the adjacent hatch glass from both sides (utilizing holes drilled through the glass), and integrate with the hinge? If such a product were to exist, and came in a kit with instructions, appropriate fasteners/sealants, a glass drill bit, and possibly some sort of warranty (and/or waiver regarding drilling glass)...I'd easily part with a couple hundred bucks for this! Last edited by OK-944; 02-16-2021 at 07:25 AM.. |
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Tags |
hatch , hatchback , rear glass , separated , separating |