Clutch pedal adjustment help/guide?

[IdahoDoug]

So, I just put a new clutch in and the clutch pedal engagement is way high up off the floor and it slips when the clutch is fully engaged, indicating I need to adjust free play. I've found diagrams here and some vague comments. Can anyone point me to a good explanation? Or a video?

I have asked 3 times to be put on Clark's Garage and never gotten a reply since last week. So if you refer to something there I've had luck with direct links, but cannot yet get past the home page.

Thanks in advance. Feeling really spoiled at all the easy help I'm getting here.

Doug

[Dmitry at Pelican Parts]

Hi Doug - take a look at the link below to an earlier thread where this is discussed. There is also a diagram within the thread. Hope this helps you a bit.

Adjusting pedal height

[campbelljj]

Really simple process. Difficult to get to if your not small. Grab a flashlight 13mm and 8mm (probably won't need the 8) open end wrench. Slide drivers seat back all the way back, drop handbrake (make sure that you secure car) and slide under the driver side dash. On the top of the clutch pedal assembly towards the firewall you will see a hexagonal rod coming from the back of the clutch master and connecting to the top of the clutch pedal. Loosen the 13 on the pedal end and rotate the 8mm rod screwing it into the pedal to shorten the overall length. This will take trial and error to get just where you want it. Be sure to snug the 13mm nut each time. Good luck.

[campbelljj]

The "A" in the diagram embedded in the link Dimitry posted is for clutch pedal height and not engagement.

[IdahoDoug]

So this is why I was looking for clarity. I read these threads and the diagram is cryptic if you've never done it. The measurement "A" in the embedded diagram is actually for the unmounted length of the helper spring according to the diagram's footnote. It is not for clutch pedal height, nor for engagement. There seems to be a lot of confusion and at the end of every thread there seems to be a comment that "it's a trial and error". Argh.

Heading out to trial and error it. It seems like the goal is to have the pedal travel 3mm before it starts pushing on the hydraulics. Mine is clearly already pushing on the hydrualics before I even push on it, so as Cambell states I need to shorten it. Probably until at rest I can push the pedal and feel a slight movement of slack taken up. Thanks much for the tool input!!

[IdahoDoug]

Well crap. I can shorten the 8mm rod until its ridiculously short and the clutch still slips. So short the clutch doesn't return from the floor as the assist spring is overcentered. Clutch still slips.

So maybe there's oil on the clutch/flywheel faces? I took off the sheetmetal guard and with a flashlight I looked at the front face of the flywheel. Dry as a bone. Removed the round rubber plug at the clutch slave and can see the edge of the new pressure plate and see nothing as to grease or oil flung. I look down from the engine bay into the timing mark hole in the bell housing and I see no oil flung on the timing mark or around the housing inside. Dry as a bone.

I assumed this would just be a routine clutch adjustment but I looks like I have bigger problems.

Of interest, my Dad quit driving it because the clutch started slipping. When I took it off the trailer it engaged fine - no chattering or anything and I gently babied it 30 feet into the garage and done. When I opened it up I fully expected to see the rubber clutch in pieces as is typical from what I hear, but it was not. No evidence of heat damage on the flywheel face or the clutch itself - my Dad's an engineer and would not have fried it so that seemed fine. It was merely worn. So now I'm wondering what problem could have possibly occurred to cause slipping before my work that would still exist in the vehicle with a completely new Sachs clutch kit? New clutch, pressure plate, throwout, pilot, even the clutch shaft tube is new and so is the rear main seal.

From stone cold, I backed it out of the garage, engaged 1st, let the clutch out and 1st engaged. Applying brisk throttle it instantly slips. So there's no hot clutch slave fluid with air in it expanding and disengaging the clutch.

When my son pushes the clutch pedal, I can lay under and watch the throwout bearing move as expected. However, I did not bleed the slave. When you remove them, naturally the slave pushrod extends and I just manhandled it back in. I will try bleeding the slave in case it is simply not allowing the clutch to attain full pressure. I could see that being an issue but as far as I know the slave is just a piston and doesn't have any ability to "reindex" itself with the rod pushed out further. It was replaced a couple years ago and looks in good shape. After that, I'm gonna shove it over a cliff.

Doug

[IdahoDoug]

OK, solved. Looks like my fault. Indeed just unceremoniously shoving the clutch slave back on was disrespectful to the machine. It was holding the clutch from fully engaging. Solved, clutch pedal properly adjusted and clutch works fine. On to the next problem I'm about to post.....

[campbelljj]

Congratulations. Good work!!

[brianc7367]

This thread was from a long time ago but hopefully you're still around- Anyways, I'm having the same problem. How exactly was the slave cylinder improperly installed and how did you fix it? Thanks