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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 638
Transaxle work

Ok, I'm in the process of installing a Quaife torque-biasing differential in my car, but I can't seem to get the transaxle open. I'm following the instructions in the factory shop manual, but the end plate just won't budge. Has anyone ever opened their transaxle for any reason? Ahmet, I know you've replaced several complete transaxles, but do you know anything about getting one open? I've decided to just take the transaxle to the shop and let my mechanic install the new diff (and maybe replace the 1st and 2nd gear synchros while the transaxle is open-- depends on how much it'll cost), and then put the transaxle back in the car myself, but I'd still like to know if I'm doing anything wrong.

Old 01-13-2001, 03:34 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Wayne, MI, USA
Posts: 102
I just started pulling my transmission apart this weekend. I got it apart with no problems following the factory shop manual (I bought the microfiche for $30, then went to the local library and printed it out).

The reason I pulled it apart is to replace the synchros. Now that it is apart, it looks like I might have to take it to a machine shop to have the 1-2 and 3-4 sliders pressed off the shafts. I don't have a gear puller with long enough jaws to pull it off of the input shaft.

I was going to take some digital pictures during the teardown, but my camera batteries died. Sorry.

The first thing to do once the trans is out of the car is to remove the shift linkage. I needed a three jaw puller to get the shift rod off. Undo the aluminum plate (w/ the three bolts) on the other side of the shifter shaft and remove the entire shaft. Do not dissasseble the shaft.

Next, undo all of the bolts holding the gear housing on. These are the bolts that hold the rusty (at least on my car) steel housing to the main aluminum bell housing that holds the diff. The tricky part here is that there are two press fit steel dowels holding the whole thing together. I assume this is where you are stuck. I tried to punch out the dowels, but they are in there for good. I just got out the biggest hammer I have, and a brass drift, and beat the snot out of the steel casing. Probably took about 10 minutes of beating before it came apart.


I hope this helps.
Old 01-14-2001, 02:58 PM
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Yeah, that's where I'm stuck. The factory manual says the knock those dowel pins out, and they just wouldn't budge. I don't want to try replacing the synchros myself, so I'm still just going to have my mechanic do the internal work. At least now I know I wasn't doing anything wrong.

Old 01-14-2001, 05:34 PM
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