Chausson radiator

[c5pilot]

so took radiator out of my 83 to pressure test and get a better look. It is identical to OEM unit but tanks say “Chausson” with a part number. I cant find anything with that number or that Chausson made a Porsche radiator. Anyone ever seen this? I am the second owner and svc history does not mention replacement.


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[v2rocket_aka944]

I recall seeing that on my original 944 radiator as well.
Chausson was still in business when the 944s were made and Porsche was bidding out parts like any automaker. They may well have been subcontracted by Behr or some company in Germany too.

[Monkey Wrench]

I'm guessing this was a french manufacturer that supplied them in europe. Im seeing references to BMW using them and maybe Renault. The name sounds very french but it still could possibly have been a German factory.
curious if it is a brass rad and if you'd replace it with aluminum or have it repaired?

I took one apart before and cleaned it, it worked out well. I removed the top and bottom and cut sticks to fit and push in through all the tubes. If I did it again I would only remove the top or bottom ,not both.

when I looked at my ford van i went to a place that can clean them out and they just sold me on an aluminum one. I kept the old one as it can be repaired.. They work ok, are very light, It's a weight savings, I question how long an aluminum one will last for though.

definitely they plug up and then cooling is not good. both made a remarkable difference if that is the issue for you, I'd do one of the two if you think it's overheating. cheaper than a warped head problem.

[djnolan]

some shops will pressure soda blast them to remove buildup.

[Monkey Wrench]

I tried rad flush products and also vinegar, I did not find it released much of it. with wood sticks it seemed pretty loose and came out, I dont think the tube cleaning part took me long, maybe the other stuff softened it up.

Can soda be blasted through without taking it apart? That might be a nice option.

I think the rad shop had like a pool of molten lead solder to dip it in or maybe a heated electric band clamp, I just used a welding torch with the tip set to not melt the brass, just enough heat to melt the solder. I waved it around until it came loose. I might have used an acetylene plumbing torch they get hot but not so hot as oxyacetlyene. a regular propane or nap gas blowtorch would probably work . i think I tinned all the mating parts well and then assembled and the last step was just to melt the already tinned metal. anywhere it didn't tin well I gave it a scrub with plumbers flux and then cleaned any of that acidic flux away after.

I did my pressure test 30 lbs or so , immersed it in water, found some tiny pinholes soldered more , eventually gave it some epoxy paint around the top and bottom which may have helped as well. I didn't want lots of paint in the fins, but gave it a light spray to leave it looking black , that was fine. 20 years later now.. its still working.


a rad shop or a new rad is faster and easier but if you are low on cash this can be done at home. If you are replacing with aluminum anyway and time spent is less of a sacrifice to you to you than money spent, it's worth a try. Many wouldn't choose to try this at all.

Id use lead solder, some are moving towards lead free solder. I hate the lead free stuff myself but maybe there is a health risk to consider when working with it.. the lead free might not even work , it has a different melting temp from the existing, which will be lead/ tin solder.

[djnolan]

All I know is the agitation the soda water carbonation provides helps to dislodge deposits. They can also gauge the flow rate to see if the rad is in good condition.

[Monkey Wrench]

I know they often say you should use distilled water, but many use tap water from their area. Our water is glacier runoff so it's quite neutral and there arent; a lot of calcium deposits. Perhaps areas with hard water would have more calcium or harder "stuff" in there.

regular hot water tanks have a sacrificial anode, evidently they wear and can be replaced. The theory is the anode basically gets eaten and its existence prolongs the tank life. I have never heard of anyone installing one in a car rad. I wonder if they might work ? maybe they just rotect iron in the tank?

now hot water tanks are all factory designed to fail prematurely so I'm not sure if people still do that. older ones like the one I have commonly went 30 years or so. I decided to keep mine until it does blow and one day I'll have a little surprise, which I'm passionately anticipating, like another interest rate hike or my next flat tire ;-)

[c5pilot]

I found an old school radiator shop in Houston that came close to repairing it. When installing the new tanks the locking tabs were too brittle and kept breaking. Most suppliers were out if stock on OEM style so I just went with an all aluminum. I have been delayed installing it however.


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