window switch plug
 

okay: passenger side window wasn't working, so i figured it was the passenger window switch on the driver side. The female end of a red/green wire was broken. So, i soldered on a make-do piece, and when i went to connect it again, i was somewhat confused by pelican's wiring diagram, which mentioned a red wire, but no red/green. I assumed that the red/green was the same as the red in the diagram, put it together, and tried the window. It only worked going down. I'm certain it's not the motor, because I took it out and cleaned it and it's been working flawlessly. Is my soldered connection bad, or are the wires in the wrong place??

What's it mean when my window only works going down???????????????????????????????????

Let's give it a shot....The Right hand (passenger side) motor wire colors are solid blue and blue with a white stripe. These two wires are the center two on the switch plug. By using jumpers with the switch removed, you should be able to test the motor itself by first putting the wires on 1 & 2 and then reversing. (I use a finishing nail and a clip lead..works quite well)If the motor goes up one way and down the other, the motor is OK. Now you can test the switches as follows: Switch unactivated, with an ohmmeter, pins 1 and 4 should show continuity as should pins 2 and 5. These are your "feed throughs" from the passenger switch on the driver's side to the passenger switch on the passenger side. With the switch on in one position, 1 & 3 and 2 & 5 are in contact, and in the other position, 1&4 show continuity as do 2 & 3. The switches are double pole double throw which simply means, in simple terms they reverse the polarity of the motor since the motor is not grounded to its own shell. If the switches test OK, then you have a voltage problem. Since the motor operates in one direction and not the other, I would suspect a faulty switch. The switch can be disassembled (there is a thread on this recently posted) and cleaned. Be aware that there are a few loose parts inside the switch that can be easily lost but without these parts the "feed through" character of the switch is lost. The two "j" shaped phospher bronze bits cannot have the "j" part facing the same way. One must be at the "top" and the other at the "bottom". You will see what I mean when you open it. Place the switch face up on a clean uncluttered surface and the rocker part will snap off quite easily.

You can also take the driver's side switch and swap to see if that solves your problem before you disconnect or disassemble anything else. If the window works at that point, a new or cleaned up switch is in order.

Good luck