Broken Waterpump stud

[turtle944]

So, broke the stud on the waterpump when removing nut...

Used the Lisle took (hammer on stud remover) and it broke half way into block now.

So, I used an extractor, and it broke too.

Now, would it be better to try to extract it through, since there is clearence into the water sleeve, or back it out (which already broke one extractor). I can use the extractor in foreward, and drive the threaded end through into the sleeve.

What is my best option at this point?

Brian

[Lawrence Coppari]

I had a stud break on my #4 cylinder exhaust manifold. It was the one right next to the firewall. I tried the stud removal thing to no avail. I went to Lowes and purchased a carbide burr and a diamond burr for my Dremel tool. I drilled a hole through the stud with an ordinary bit, then carefully cut away what remained first with the carbide burr, then with the very small diamond burr. You can tell where to grind away with the burrs by using a magnet which won't stick to aluminum but does attract to steel. What was left of the stud came out in pieces. I have it on my desk as a momento of a fun weekend.

[ae1969]

Originally posted by turtle944
So, broke the stud on the waterpump when removing nut...

Welcome to the club!

Can you say SNAP ON. All I can say is buy the best extractors you can. You may be able to use a long fluted one........ make sure you put heat on the area as well... and be patient.

I do not envy you.

[ae1969]

.....oh just saw lawrences post..........yup ditto on the dremel idea!!! get the BEST drill bit you can.... and please go slow.

[FLA944]

If you have access to a mig you can use the the tip to burn out the stud and extractor and it will not affect the aluminum, the blast of argon will blow all the debris out. just chase the threads with a tap or best yet replace with a helicoil.

Rick

[Roger Hall]

Try this

http://www.madelectrical.com/workshop/broken-bolts.shtml

[TNT25169]

Is there a book for completely rebuilding 944 engines? I know they make one for 911's and didn't know if they ever made one for a 944.

[drew1]

The workshop manual gives good info on rebuilds. I think it runs about $250 or you may find a CD. You have probably read about the belt stuff. Another thing is the crank. The thrust bearings get a lot of wear in the watercooled fours. The 944 has some rod oiling problems. If the back surface of one of the rod inserts has blue it might be good to get one of those redrilled cranks. Instead of main caps the 944 has a girdle. The cylinders are something else. If you have scratches, etc wear there you need to find an automotive machine shop with a Sunnen hone for boring. I haven't heard of anybody sleeving the cylinders like they used to do on the old Chevy Vegas with the silicon aluminum blocks. If you have one of the AN 11 or 12 portable hones (think those nomenclatures are right) you could fab some brass pads out of a worn stone set & rivet some felt on the guides, & use some Cloverleaf lapping compound. The oil cooler seals can be a pain. There is a whole lot of seals on this motor. A rebuid involves a whole lot more than a Ford 2.3 4 cyl.


drew1

[todwic]

Very nice and usefull site, roger. you get the attaboy of the week

[carsontc]

I just bookmarked it too

(Todwic and I both like to break bolts in our spare time)