Rekeying Factory Alarm Switch - Pics!

[kdjones2000]

Since I didn't find a good "how to" with images on this topic, I decided to make my own.

For those of you who have a factory alarm (Option M533), but not the key for it, this is the procedure to make it so that your ignition key will work with the alarm.

The factory alarm switch/key is located just behind the driver's side door lock, in the quarter panel. There is a plastic cover over the securing nut, which is very difficult to remove intact. I broke mine upon removal, and am looking for sources to replace it. It is simply snapped over the securing nut, and with very careful twiddling with a knife you might be able to get yours off intact:





Once the cover is removed, you need to remove the vent cover in the quarter panel. There is a retainer (shown at the top of the vent in this picture) that you should carefully retract to get the cover out:



Now you can reach in the access hole and remove the switch/key assembly, after removing the exterior nut:



If you remove either of the wires with your battery connected, the alarm will go off. There are several ways of silencing this: 1) Disconnect the battery 2) Make a jumper wire and connect it across the wires or 3) Disconnect one wire for about 1 second, then touch it to the terminal on the switch for a moment:



Okay, the switch is now out of the car. The next step is to cut the plastic case apart to get into the key. I used a hacksaw for this, carefully only cutting into the plastic case as there are contacts and such underneath. You might want to saw in a slightly different location:



Carefully separate the parts, and you can see the lock cylinder, contacts and resistors that make up the switch:

[kdjones2000]

Note the location/orientation of the parts, and remove the retaining clip with a suitable tool. INSERT YOUR IGNITION KEY to prevent all of the lock cylinder springs and such from flying all over the place. Now, you can push with a Phillips screwdriver to drive the key cylinder out of the housing:



You now need to file down the high points of the tumblers so that the cylinder will turn smoothly in the housing. Once this is done, then carefully put the parts back together.

To hold the plastic case together, I simply wrapped it with electrical tape a bunch of times. Use some epoxy if you prefer.



Connect the switch back up with the wires, insert the assembly into the hole again, making sure to align the key correctly. The washer that goes on top also has a specific orientation that is keyed at the bottom:



Put the nut back on, tighten it up, replace the vent cover, admire your work and enjoy your functioning factory alarm!



Cheers,

Keith

[WaA420]

Keith,

I can hook you up with one of them covers.

[88BlueTSiQuest]

Not that I would do this, as I've bypassed both of the alarms, and the 951 came with the proper key.

But....... Good tip!

[kdjones2000]

Russ, thanks for the offer. I will call you tonight.

Looking into this a bit more, it seems that the plastic bezel is available from the Porsche dealer, and only costs something like $3-4

Imagine, something from Por$che that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

Cheers,

Keith

[kdjones2000]

One final note to this: Someone here or elsewhere has indicated that, rather than sawing through the casing, you can pry the back of the plastic casing off. This would lead to a much cleaner fix if you go this route.

Cheers, Keith

[Smoker324]

KD,

Thanks for a great how-to. I need to do this job and now I know how.

Good work.

[eddie224]

Great instructions for this task. If you are eliminating the lock, shorting the original wires will not work; you need to install a small resistor between the terminals. This resistor's value is 4700 Ohms. The color code is yellow-violet-red. The yellow band is the first band. The fourth color band is insignificant. The wattage of the resistor is not critical either. This resistor is in the circuit when the key is in the "off" position. A wire (or fuse) short simulates the alarm "on" position. Also, I used a hair dryer to 'soften' the black trim ring for a few minutes, and it popped off intact very easily with my fingernail.

[kdjones2000]

BTW, you don't have to cut the case open like I did originally.

Someone else was able to remove the back cap of the case and get at the parts instead.

[geno951]

I did this a few weeks ago, I drilled 2 holes close to one another, turned some plyers upside down and spun it loose

[geno951]

It does tear the back cover up a little bit. The plastic is thin.

[kdjones2000]

Someone wanted to see the pictures from this thread, so here's a repost:

Since I didn't find a good "how to" with images on this topic, I decided to make my own.

For those of you who have a factory alarm (Option M533), but not the key for it, this is the procedure to make it so that your ignition key will work with the alarm.

The factory alarm switch/key is located just behind the driver's side door lock, in the quarter panel. There is a plastic cover over the securing nut, which is very difficult to remove intact. I broke mine upon removal, and am looking for sources to replace it. It is simply snapped over the securing nut, and with very careful twiddling with a knife you might be able to get yours off intact:







Once the cover is removed, you need to remove the vent cover in the quarter panel. There is a retainer (shown at the top of the vent in this picture) that you should carefully retract to get the cover out:



Now you can reach in the access hole and remove the switch/key assembly, after removing the exterior nut:



If you remove either of the wires with your battery connected, the alarm will go off. There are several ways of silencing this: 1) Disconnect the battery 2) Make a jumper wire and connect it across the wires or 3) Disconnect one wire for about 1 second, then touch it to the terminal on the switch for a moment:



Okay, the switch is now out of the car. The next step is to cut the plastic case apart to get into the key. I used a hacksaw for this, carefully only cutting into the plastic case as there are contacts and such underneath. You might want to saw in a slightly different location:



Carefully separate the parts, and you can see the lock cylinder, contacts and resistors that make up the switch:



Note the location/orientation of the parts, and remove the retaining clip with a suitable tool. INSERT YOUR IGNITION KEY to prevent all of the lock cylinder springs and such from flying all over the place. Now, you can push with a Phillips screwdriver to drive the key cylinder out of the housing:

[kdjones2000]

You now need to file down the high points of the tumblers so that the cylinder will turn smoothly in the housing. Once this is done, then carefully put the parts back together.

To hold the plastic case together, I simply wrapped it with electrical tape a bunch of times. Use some epoxy if you prefer.



Connect the switch back up with the wires, insert the assembly into the hole again, making sure to align the key correctly. The washer that goes on top also has a specific orientation that is keyed at the bottom:



Put the nut back on, tighten it up, replace the vent cover, admire your work and enjoy your functioning factory alarm!



Cheers,

Keith

[pfarah]

Hey Keith,

I'm bringing your old thread up as this project has been on my list for some time (who knows how many years that key has been missing and I have no idea if the alarm system even works). Thanks for the tutorial! If you don't mind, I'd like to add a few pics I took today that may help others.

Remove the rear retaining clip in order to gain access to the tumblers.



As Keith mentioned earlier, use a Phillips screwdriver to gently push the tumbler assembly from the metal housing. Be careful not to damage the small black O-ring/seal.
Also: Keep the key fully inserted so parts don't come flying out.





Inspect the assembly for protruding tumblers; each one will prevent the assembly to turn within the housing.

Gently pull the key out (one notch at a time) until the first protruding tumbler plate can be pulled out with needle-nose pliers. Note: There is a very small spring that provides tension for each plate.





I used a Dremel tool with a sanding wheel to gently grind down each tumbler plate as needed. The goal is to have all plates flush with the cylinder while the key is fully inserted.


My next step is to fabricate a weatheried housing (as the original piece had to be cut off to gain access to the cylinder lock assembly.

[kdjones2000]

Glad it helped

[pfarah]

It did! I hope to start testing the alarm system this weekend (fingers crossed).

[mazdaverx7]

Both writeups were excellent and both are very helpful! Thank you Keith and Patrick for writing them!

[Monkey Wrench]

if it's just an electric switch you can go to an electrical parts supplier and get a key operated electric switch, they are common in machinery, sized to fit the two common panel hole configurations. for example to disable a machine safeguard for a special operation. I've filed tumblers before to make a key I had handy fit, that works too.

if you want simplicity, you can build a car alarm cheaply:

you can use 3 - 3 position toggle switches. set them in some pattern you like and daisy chain through those closed contacts to complete the circuit, now you can turn off the fuel pump by moving any of the 3.

hook every other wire to the horn, then if anyone tries starting the car and you have moved any of the 3 switches the horn will honk instead of the car starting. you might want a separate horn as the original works by being grounded. alternatively You could interrupt the ground instead I guess..

hide the 3 position toggle switches out of view, anyone will have a very slim chance of guessing the correct orientation of the 3 switches and they need not be near each other, You can add more but why make it more complex?

If a would-be thief busts your key or wires around the key he will probably become confused and stop and go elsewhere when he starts honking the horn.

[pfarah]

Thanks for the tutorial! My goal is actually to repair/restore the alarm system to its correct OEM operation, if at all possible...

[originalowner]

You all should realize that the more you file, the more keys that will operate the lock, and the easier it is to pick. At the point you have the cylinder out, you should take it to a locksmith who can cut a key to fit, so only one key pattern will operate the switch. If you are extremely lucky, the tumblers can be rearranged to fit your ignition key (but unlikely.) The locksmith may have tumblers that fit the cylinder, which can be swapped in so that it does fit your ignition key, and only that pattern. A few bucks, and far more secure.