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Engine removal

Is it possible to remove a 944's engine without removing the bell housing? I am going to be pulling the engine from the top and not dropping it through the bottom. Anybody have any advice on things that will make this go smooth?
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1983 944 - Project Time!
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Old 06-16-2003, 04:44 AM
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Yup.

I pulled mine out and put it back in with the bellhousing on.

It just has to go in/out at a slight angle. The drivers side engine mount got in the way about half way out. So I pulled it off and then I was able to get her through.
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:26 AM
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so when I angle it and lift it the torque tube should fall out of the bell housing?
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1983 944 - Project Time!
1986 944T (Stolen)
1987 944 N/A (Sold)
1984 944 N/A (Sold)
1986 944 N/A (Sold)
Old 06-16-2003, 06:28 AM
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You have to remove all of the nine socket head screws around the pressure plate first. This will leave the pressure plate and the clutch disk behind letting the end of the drive shaft pull out of the end of the crank/pilot bushing. Removing the starter is mandatory too.

I found the top bolt on the bell housing a PITA! Dropping the front cross member down a few inches with the engine attached give a bit more access to the top bolt. See next paragraph.

You will have to remove the four bolts holding the front cross member to the chassis as there is little room to slide the enging forward because of the deep step in the oil pan.

I also took the hood off but if you are careful I think you can just disconnect the two hood "springs" and raise the hood to a vertical possition. A padded two by four accross the top of the car hooked to the front of the hood should hold it in place.

I removed my hood and have not been able to get it back into alingment in the back since.

The main reason I removed the engines out the top was to be able to quickly reattach the front suspension to move the cars about. Can't do that with the back end laying ten feet from the car.

P.S. I didn't remove the bell housing or the timing belt covers but did have to remove the bottom power steering pully from the crank.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by XJOSHX
so when I angle it and lift it the torque tube should fall out of the bell housing?
well, it's not quite that easy.

i also pulled mine from the top with the bellhousing attached.

You will find that you still have to loosen the crossmember accross the bottom because the oil pan will hit it and won't allow the engine to come forward enough to get the drive shaft out of the bell housing.

Also, you may want to remove the fans, it will give you more room to move the engine around... i didn't remove them, but i think it would have been easier if I had, and they aren't that difficult to remove.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoCal Driver
You have to remove all of the nine socket head screws around the pressure plate first. This will leave the pressure plate and the clutch disk behind letting the end of the drive shaft pull out of the end of the crank/pilot bushing. Removing the starter is mandatory too.
Well, he said with the bellhousing ON... which IS possible.

As far as the starter, I don't remember if I pulled mine off first or not. Might as well, since that's not that difficult either.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:04 AM
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Well the car I am taking it out of is a parts car and I already got rid of the hood and head lites. I will probably take out the fans and the radiator too.
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1983 944 - Project Time!
1986 944T (Stolen)
1987 944 N/A (Sold)
1984 944 N/A (Sold)
1986 944 N/A (Sold)
Old 06-16-2003, 07:05 AM
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oh yeah, I am trying to get this done the fastest way possible so I figure the less work I will have to do the better. Thats why I want to leave the bell housing on.
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1983 944 - Project Time!
1986 944T (Stolen)
1987 944 N/A (Sold)
1984 944 N/A (Sold)
1986 944 N/A (Sold)
Old 06-16-2003, 07:07 AM
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It is easy when you leave the bell housing attached to the torqe tube. Takes less than two inches to pull the engine forward and have the drive shaft pulll out of the flywheel when you leave the clutch assembly behind with the bellhousing.

Also is a benefit to have the end of the drive shaft engauge the pilot bushing with the clutch assembly already on the shaft! No clutch plate alighment tool or related problems.

You do have to tighten the nine clutch bolts each a bit at a time but with the sparking bolts removed turing the engine over under the car with a large screw driver into the starter teeth or a ratched on the front crank pully is do able.
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When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by XJOSHX
oh yeah, I am trying to get this done the fastest way possible so I figure the less work I will have to do the better. Thats why I want to leave the bell housing on.
Leaving the bell housing on means you have to pull the timing belt cover off, the timing belts and all the related pullies. Besides having to disconnect the clutch slave tubing. You have to pull the engine forward the length of the bellhousing not just the two inches that is necessary to clear the end of the drive shaft.

But if the front of the salvage car can be cut off then it's not that bad.

I took the engine out of an automatic and put it into my manual. I found the out the hood process much more acceptable as I was able to roll the cars about with less than twenty minutes of work on reattaching the front suspensions.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-16-2003, 07:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by SoCal Driver
Leaving the bell housing on means you have to pull the timing belt cover off, the timing belts and all the related pullies.


Ummmmmm... no.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:22 AM
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I am gonna go out and wrench on the thing now and get it ready. I think it is going to be a coin toss on the leave the bell housing on or take it off.
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1983 944 - Project Time!
1986 944T (Stolen)
1987 944 N/A (Sold)
1984 944 N/A (Sold)
1986 944 N/A (Sold)
Old 06-16-2003, 07:23 AM
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Leave the bell housing on and Shepper will come over and show you where the extra three inches are that you need to clear the hood latch bracket with the timing cover on.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-16-2003, 07:42 AM
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now now boys, play nice
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1986 944T (Stolen)
1987 944 N/A (Sold)
1984 944 N/A (Sold)
1986 944 N/A (Sold)
Old 06-16-2003, 09:09 AM
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Or pull the tranny out..... (couple hours) and you will save yourself some time.

I am gonna try pulling from top again on the 951. I want to be able to keep the wheels in place to so I can wheel it to have it painted.
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:21 AM
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