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Join Date: Oct 2022
Posts: 10
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Head lights Hell
1984 944
My headlights do not shine. I have replaced the headlight switch. I got a used but functioning new turn signal/brights stalk. The car runs fine otherwise The wipers work. The ignition switch is new. On the dash the blue light indicator is on. I cannot change it with the stalk. All of the fuses for the headlights have been changed to new and are in place. I need some direction from someone with expertise please. Charles |
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Sorry to bother you but I cannot find a “post” button anywhere in this forum. Could someone tell me how to submit a new post? Thanks, Steve
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Patrick
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Have you checked for voltage at the headlight connector as well as in the fuse panel?
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1984 944 NA, constant tinkering 1983 "Beastie" - Safari Build |
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So, I have.
The headlights work with external power. I do not get voltage at the headlight connector. I will check the fuse panel. Where on the fuse panel do you suggest I check? I think fuses 1-4 are for the headlights. Is that what you are thinking? C |
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Registered
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If there are ground wires from headlight wire harness, check the grounds!
I think there is at least one ground point near driver headlight (to frame) on yearly 944's and 924's. Did you perform any repair prior to headlight failure? |
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I checked the voltage at the fuse box and dont get anything on fuses 1-4. I had a situation where the brights were stuck on but I think I found the mechanism in the steering column that governs this. While I could not turn the brights off using the stalk, i can turn them on and off using the connection in the column. If I could post a picture it would be easier to explain.
C |
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As to the grounds, I have taken apart and cleaned both of the grounds on the front frame rails. One near the receiver dryer on the Left and one under the headlight motor on the right.
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I am wondering what part of the mechanism in the column rings for the wipers and turn signals may be faulty so that the power to the lights will not get where it needs to be.
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Sorry for all the piecemeal but I keep thinking of things. None of this was a problem before I took apart the column in order to put in a new ignition switch. I inspected all of the wires and i DO NOT see any wires that are torn, exposed etc.
I am so desperate to getting this fixed C |
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curtisr
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Did the lights work before changing the switches? If they did you may need only check the wiring into the light switch.
If they didn't, I'd offer two suggestions:
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1977 924 Guards Red (parted and sold) 1987 924s Alpine White (sold) 1987 924s Kopenhagen Blue (my Lowencash tribute track car -- sold) 1987 924s Garnet Red (currently becoming Lowencash II) 1982 928 Silver (sold) ![]() |
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The headlights worked before changing the ignition switch. Prior to that the car wouldn’t run at all. Now it runs. It was only after the ignition switch was changed that the lights did not shine. Since then I replaced the light switch but that made no difference. The bright light indicator on the dash (blue) shines continuously, as if the brights are stuck on if there is such a thing.
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Location: America
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Quote:
Due to the new turnsignal/high beam stalk, and the constant high beam indicator on, this is likely the issue. Have you checked the Relays, Fuses? They could be stuck.
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1976 Porsche 912E http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?43391-770-Update 1989 Porsche 944 S2 2020 Mustang Bullitt Buncha Moto Guzzi Motorcycles |
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if you just think about how a ballpoint pen that clicks in and out works, thats basically the principle used in most of the high low beam relays, the contacts switch between high and low beam. from what I've seen in other cars by taking this apart this is switched mechanically within the relay so it hits the two contacts alternately, much like how a click in click out ballpoint pen works. you can normally hear that relay clicking when you pull the switch on the column or use the footswitch on cars that instead use a flootswitch for high-low beam. when you do get it clicking follow the sound to find it.
If you are not hearing it click it might be failed due to no power through your keyswitch circuit. make sure your battery is ok , check it has about 12.5 V or something near that, that it is fully charged. should be a little higher with the car running. could be contacts in there, also there is usually a relay so the switch doesnt' need to control all the amps to the headlights, but it could be that its different in the porsche and maybe they run all the amps through the switch. herin could be the issue, if that switch is handling the full load of the lights then it may be that the contacts burned because they will arc as the switch is opened each time if it is carrying much of a load. If this is a problem, it may be electrically possible to make the keyswitch turn on and off a relay instead, so then the switch is only carrying the load of the pull in coil for the relay and the relay and it's internal contacts itself does the switching of the higher amperage. that would perhaps be a modification of the wiring, don't start there. You are best to find the exact location of the problem and fix that than start modifying things. since you just changed the keyswitch, I'd make sure that area is right , it stands to reason the last thing you touched before you had issues is the culprit. if you dont have power to the fuses for the lights, then you need to look what feeds them and work back towards the battery. I think there is a switch that senses the key being inserted which is similar to the key being turned to position one in most other cars, is the key in, is there a wire from the key that gets hot when key is inserted? how about put your meter on the fuses and mess around with the key positions see if it gets power, if not then you need to use your meter to find out why that is. If power is there through the fuses then Id check the other side towards the headlights. why 4 fuses? do all 4 fuses power the lights themselves or are some of those for the motor? are other things also not working , like the air blower? there might be other things run off that key switch and if you see other things that are also not getting power it might be a clue. you might be wise to print out the schematic and highlight the wires that are hot through the circuit, then you may then understand better where your power interruption is. if you are having trouble reading and understanding the scematic but you cna mark on it where you do or do nt have power with the key switch on , then perhaps someone can look at that and maybe assist with help understanding it, because you really need to use it to understand the circut fully. what is sometimes done , if you dont want to mess with the connectors, or want to verify an issue through a connector and need to know if it has continuity, you can pin prick the wires with a needle or similar and probe through the insulation that way, just try not to damage the insulation too much if you need to do this. you may find those keyswitch wires somewhat protected to prevent easily just going under the dash and hotwiring the car. |
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