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Rad drain plug snapped...?????

Is there a easy way to extract the drain plug from the radiator,..it snapped as I was installing it...and it leaks Thanks Frank

Old 05-24-2012, 07:50 PM
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Usually a flat tip screwdriver works. If you really have to, use a soldering iron or dremel tool to make a slot in it for a flat tip.
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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 05-24-2012, 07:52 PM
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Ha, this just happened to me. Solution I got here at Pelican was to heat a screwdriver with a torch and CAREFULLY press it into the stub of the plug. Pull it out, let it cool, then the stub comes out easily using the screwdriver and melted slot.
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? «

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Old 05-25-2012, 06:03 AM
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Ahh Ok I was afraid of hurting the threads but I can heat a driver....Thanks
Old 05-25-2012, 06:52 AM
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Yeah, plastic side tanks would not like a hot screw driver.
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87 951 all stock exc. cup II's /94 968 6-spd, lowered,17in. RUF Speedlines, M030 anti- sways/ 94 968 Tip, Cup II's, otherwise stock

Last edited by 968 GUY; 05-25-2012 at 06:58 AM..
Old 05-25-2012, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flmont View Post
Ahh Ok I was afraid of hurting the threads but I can heat a driver....Thanks
Well, you gotta be careful not to touch the threads, that is for sure.
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? «

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Old 05-25-2012, 08:09 AM
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Now, if I could only solve my no idel problem,..it runs if I give it a lotta throttle...but wont hold a idel otherwise ?????? Thanks Guys Frank
Old 05-25-2012, 12:50 PM
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After breaking one or two of the plugs, I have decided the easiest way to drain the radiator is to remove the lower hose. But if you want to continue using the drain plug, make sure you keep a spare one on hand....it's a b%^ch to break one and have to wait for a new one to arrive.

Problem is, these plugs are plastic and they get soft over a period of time.
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1989 944 NA Glacier Blue - SOLD IT
1989 944 S2 Alpine White T-Boned (totaled) by a lady dressed in a CLOWN costume (RIP ) Apr 89 - Mar 08
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:50 PM
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Yes I know why not a metal plug....but in the future indeed the bottem hose comes off....!!!
Old 05-25-2012, 01:36 PM
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Consider picking up the LR radiator drain. Basically you can install a ball valve on the end of a rubber hose. Makes draining the radiator for working on the cooling system really easy, wish i had thought to do this years ago. The big plus is you can drain the coolant into gallon containers and reuse everything.. saves the huge 'splash' you get when disconnecting the hose.

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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
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Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 05-25-2012, 01:36 PM
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ooh - i have to look into that. i've dropped my radiator 3 times in the past year alone.

note: ever since i broke one a few years ago, i have been stocking the plastic plugs, and never reuse them. i always have a few here.
Old 05-25-2012, 03:20 PM
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Hey Duck, did you make or buy that 3 piece x-member?
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» 1987 924S Turbo - Got Boost? «

"DETERMINATION. Sometimes cars test us to make sure we're worthy. Fix it." - alfadoc
Old 05-26-2012, 09:00 AM
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Make sure you get the right plug.
Mine also broke, and I ordered a new one based on my year (86).
I wasn't the right one since I happened to have a late radiator, which uses a different plug.

Early (-86) black fine thread
944 106 353 00

Late (87-) blue coarse thread
944 106 353 01
Old 05-26-2012, 09:17 AM
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Just make a metal plug by duplicating the plastic one. On the 924S I used a stainless bolt. Matched the thread and filed a groove under the head for the o-ring with a circular file. Works great, lasts forever.

Jon
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Old 05-27-2012, 02:07 PM
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bummer. i looked at the setup. i was hoping the valve was at the radiator, and not at the end of the hose. i don't want to leave that hose up there.
Old 05-27-2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rasta Monsta View Post
Hey Duck, did you make or buy that 3 piece x-member?
Had a few made locally. Brought a LR one to a metal fabrication place and they said it was no problem to duplicate. They did a really nice job on it and tig welded the plates on. I had concerns about the dimensions being off, but when matched up to a unmodified x-member it was basically exact. Sold it with the turbo engine though, decided to go back with a unmodified one for my LSx swap.
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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
2005 Arctic Silver 996 GT3
Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1

Last edited by Techno Duck; 05-27-2012 at 02:53 PM..
Old 05-27-2012, 02:51 PM
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i wanted to use one of those now that my motor is out, but the torsional resistance wasn't there. i would have had to add something to keep it from twisting. i have a cab and can't afford any loss of structural resistance. when i told my engine builder that i wanted to use one of those, he gave me the number of a frame shop for the repairs.

needless to say i was pretty bummed.

maybe someday i'll work out something.
Old 05-27-2012, 04:32 PM
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Porsche Crest Still works after all these years ...

I know this thread is very old but I wanted to let you guys know that heating the screw driver head worked for me except it actually melted the entire remainder of the plug. I don't think there was much left. I followed the threads with my Snap-On M10 1.5 thread chaser. I don't think I have any other Snap-On tools except their thread chaser set. EASILY the most used tool set I have. I knew it was M10 1.5 because the PET says it is.

I will build my own plug like JonA did. I found a stainless M10 1.5 thread, X 20 MM bolt on Amazon (5 bolts for $10 and I'll have them in three days). Mine still had the factory washer which appears to do the job. I realize that Porsche uses plastic plugs because of corrosion. But I'm pretty happy with stainless materials and having a plug that snaps off is not a good solution. Porsche builds great cars and I love them. But they cut corners in the most puzzling ways.

Next up; flush that cooling system very thoroughly.

Thanks again to all the Pelicans. You guys are the greatest!
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Last edited by rbuswell; 06-02-2024 at 12:10 PM.. Reason: Puncuation
Old 06-02-2024, 12:05 PM
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I dont know if it's really a problem but I'm noting that my samsung washing machine has a stainless steel drum and a pot metal or aluminum " spider" ita big thing that holds the back of the drum to the motor shaft.. looks like a giant aluminum Mercedes sign.

well its a problem and samsung wot change it. The SS drum reacts with the spider. then the spider turns into something that resembles sand, and the drum comes loose. I believe that is just a factory made default to make sure their machines don't last more than 10 years. BTW leave the door open so it dries and then the reaction stops when the water evaporates , so I always leave mine open.

this is a problem of the dissimilar metals, each metal has an inherent voltage and the combination rots aluminum by way of electrolysis. if you look into it there are some known problems and it can surface as an issue in weird ways like maybe a guy building a gate.. just never thought about it.. next stuff starts corroding...

they put up a bunch of stainless steel signs around work then next they had ugly rust streaks running down from every bolt.. that was a similar electrolysis reaction , dissimilar metals.

Just one little plug might not be a factor, but if you combine aluminum and stainless it can cause this electrical reaction which results in aluminum or pot metal being basically eaten up.

people involved with big boats know, they have expendable anodes to prevent this sort of thing.

can one little plug cause a problem ? I dont know. Id pick a 10 mm x 1.5 in brass if you can.
Old 06-03-2024, 09:44 AM
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MW,
brass is better. Porsche used a plastic plug for a weight reduction! ))

Old 06-03-2024, 10:32 AM
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