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I'm looking to buy a roll cage, or roll bar (really want to go roll cage).
I've decided spending up to $900, but will consider something more expensive. This cage will go in my 944, to possibly be swapped out to a 968, or a 944 in 18 months or so. So I'm not looking at a weld in cage. I will consider something more expensive, or a weld in cage, if I decide they're worth it. The cage needs to be legal for SCCA, AND PCA legal. Basically something I can swap, but don't have to get rid of with a modified 944 turbo (or similar) in even fender to fender racing if possible. It's going in a daily driver, but primery concern is safety, although I'd LIKE to have the rear seats functional. Have a track event coming up, and will need the cage in 9 days at max. I'd appreciate any insight, suggestions, leads, etc. Thanks. Ahmet ------------------ It's all the driver... |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfield, CT, USA
Posts: 397
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1.2 chill with the cross posts, see my reply in the other forum.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Harrisonburg, VA
Posts: 76
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I am looking to do the same thing soon. I want to install just a roll bar for now. I am going to install a bolt in, and would recommend the same. Welded in bars and cages are far more expensive, cannot be swapped to another car, and unless professionally installed will detract from the interior appearance. If your going to keep your rear seat functional, a full cage just doesnt seem logical. Is this for auto-x rules? because removing at least the top half of the rear seat is a good weight saver.
Autopower is a good quality bar , and if painted to match before install , can look pretty trick. |
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Pilot, there are several reasons for me to cross post:
First of, only about 6 people check there! And they may not be the same people who check here. This particular post can really be asked in either form IMO. I don't hesistate to post stuff in 968, and 944 boards (for example) when I find something that would concern both models. Same with 911 stuff. It's all in the name of getting more exposure. BASS944, I'm going to start doing track events, the first being in about two weeks. They require roll cages, as part of their safety rules. Since cages are allowed in stock classes at auto-xes, I didn't hesitate. (PCA, and virtually all other racing organizations permit roll cages in all classes). However other stuff like racing seats are club specific (not allowed in stock class for auto-xes, with SCCA). That's why those'll wait. I'll probably go ahead and get this cage, harnesses (already got the helmet), fire extinguisher, etc. Then I'll finally have to decide what I'm doing with the 944, and what direction to head with my next Porsche (and decide if I'd rather just have the money in the bank!). Ahmet ------------------ It's all the driver... |
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,732
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Ahmet,
PCA doesn't require roll bars in closed top cars for driver's ed, drew1 |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Fairfield, CT, USA
Posts: 397
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum21/HTML/000019.html
Here is the other post. Stay away from the Autopower cage it is cheap to buy, but it is also just plain cheap... A decent welded cage is always better than a bolt in cage. It adds to chassis rigidity and protects better. Also if you are not doing the labor yourself they are roughly the same cost. Stay with cold rolled steel (mild steel/DOM tubing whatever you wnat to call it) Chrome moly is hard to work with, and if not welded properly will crack. |
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Moderator
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drew, I should've worded that differently. A roll cage is NOT required for driver's ed (which I'm going to, in two weeks), but it is in time trials, races, pretty much everything else. However, I'd like to have my roll cage in, FOR the driver's ed, would make sense to put the roll cage in, while I'm a "novice" right?
Pilot, I'd agree that a welded cage would probably be better than a bolt in cage in most cases, however this "Safety Devices" really does look like a nice bolt in cage. I like it! I'd also think that (although welding is still better), bolt in cages can add to chasis rigidity too, at least after the first few mm of flexing takes place. I'd think that a bolt in roll cage can be welded, and added onto, once it's on the car (extend to suspension pick-ups, add triangulation, etc.), but I think I remember a "bolt in cages may not be welded" from some place. Anyway, since I'm gonna swap this cage later, I don't want to buy a weld in one. I don't think I'm making a bad decision, as the Safety Devices roll cage seems to be a pretty sturdy unit, at a reasonable price. It's got triangulation in the back, close to the suspension pick ups. It doesn't bolt to the floor pan, but instead near the door sills, it even includes the door "beams" that run between the front, and the middle legs of the cage (that run parallell to the A&B pillars), which is also removable. And for around $1100, I don't think this is bad at all. Can even use the rear seat, most the parts of the cage are removable! PS: Thanks again for the help, if I can get the cage, I'll tape the whole thing (then you can tell me how to drive) ![]() ------------------ It's all the driver... |
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