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Post Updates/Oil, should I sell? +etc.

OK, today I replaced the coolant with some good stuff, added some redline water wetter, and finally decided to install a thermostat (somebody please ask me why), and finally changed the oil with lubrication engineers.

Now, this oil is around $6.95 a quart, what I've noticed so far is that the oil pressure is slightly under 4 bars at all times, does not go down. A welcome change, after seeing my oil pressure light flicker a couple times when I let the car idle, after about 6 hard laps at VIR. (I get a feeling that's not going to happen again). I WAS using 20-50 castrol.

Also, my front spoiler is a little bent (been that way since I bought the car), today I noticed the radiator mounts were a little bent too, I bent them back, and the car is a lot more quiet when the fans come on now, I think this is because the seal between the frame/spoiler and the radiator is contacting well now. I think this will also help with running hot on track.

I need to decide what to do with this car, it's leaking from the front main seal (albeit a small amount), and the balance shaft housings on both sides, as well as at the spot where the cam housing meets the distributor. All seals should be relatively easy to replace (with the possible exception of the front main seal) while doing timing belts, but this is driving me nuts, as I'm going to replace the now oil covered bushings one more time=another alignment. The transaxle is not feeling that great (I just decided to try some LE oil in there too!)either. I have an offer on the car for $3500. If I take the offer, I'll buy myself a turbo MUCH sooner, but if I keep this car, I should still be able to buy a turbo, and keep this car in about a year, if not a bit less.

I'll be working on the 'barn door' air flow meter tomorrow. I'll post updates here.

What do you guys think?
Ahmet

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It's all the driver...

Old 05-24-2001, 02:44 PM
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Well it depends how you feel about the car Ahmet, are YOUR blood, sweat,and tears worth 3500?
Old 05-24-2001, 02:54 PM
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Ahmet, you have to realize that if you are going to sell your car now and buy a turbo much sooner, you may jump the gun and get a less than stellar example of one out of sheer anticipation and impatience. When do you get your license back anyways (or did you already get it back)? You also have to realize that unless you get a perfect babied example, that the same leaks you have now in your car will happen sooner or later on the turbo (mine started leaking a month after I bought it from everywhere...front main seal, rear main seal, cam seal, oilpan gasket...that is the last one I have to fix, but I have to wait until my car is fixed from the accident . I have heard of people putting floor sealant in their oil, and it will plug all of the oil leaks for a month or two, enough time to sell it, and then you have a big problem when the stuff finally disintegrates...I think this may have happened in my car. If you can get $3500 for your car, and you feel you can make sure you get a good 951 when the money and time comes without making a hasty decision, by all means do it (I wish I had not been so hasty with mine...it needed soooo much work right after I bought it...I should have gotten a PPI). Good luck with your decision...let us all know what you decide. The turbo is well worth the wait. I can NEVER go back to a normal car again after the turbo...it got me hooked like smack on high performance sports cars.

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ribs, 86' 951
Old 05-24-2001, 03:14 PM
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somebody has a wrecked 951 close to you that may want to sell it after it's been fixed...

:-)

Old 05-24-2001, 03:17 PM
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IMOP, it's time to get the turbo
Old 05-24-2001, 03:46 PM
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always sell the car to a sucker, right when you have problems that you can't fix/don'thave time, never sell to a friend or someone you know, cuz they will never be yor friend again.

Old 05-24-2001, 04:10 PM
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speaking of that wrecked turbo Blackfoot mentioned. I have not decided exactly what i am going to do with it, but i may fix and sell it cheap, or i may make a gt3 track only car. i have not really had much time to go over it.
Old 05-24-2001, 04:17 PM
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first of all, hey ribs, whats an ppi??

second, the oil pressure....isn't that incredably high??i know nothing about cars or porsches but i've read that if it does not go lower than 4 bar then u have a faulty oil pressure sending unit.....
Old 05-24-2001, 04:47 PM
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Andre...

a ppi is a "pre purchase inspection"
Old 05-24-2001, 04:51 PM
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i'll be curious as to how much money it takes to fix after the ins. co. said $7500.

if you decide to fix & sell, it just sounds like the perfect opportunity for ahmet as it would be just around the time frame when he gets his license back.

but then again, converting to a gt3 racer is interesting, too.

Old 05-24-2001, 04:51 PM
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I do like this car, a lot...

And all the leaks are minor, with the car parked, it takes about a week for oil from the front main seal to reach to the ground (with the underpan off), others just moist up the area. Powersteering lines are also moist, as well as the rack itself.

I'd really like to have two cars, and if this one gives me a big problem (ie: transaxle), I'll be in even more trouble! BTW, I get my license back in about 4.5 months.

Carter, if you ever decide to sell that turbo for cheap, my e-mail address is over1g@hotmail.com! I'm not afraid of a car that needs a little work, and I know what to look for, it all depends on the shape of the car, and the $ you're asking, (and I have enough cash to buy that car anytime) but I'd ultimately like a pristine turbo S, or an 89.

I think he means 'Pre Purchase Inspection' by ppi.

I need to do the front brakes, and aside from the mentioned, I don't expect anything to pop up. I'm planning to cut the front springs, and re-index the rear torsion bars, as well as an alignment (it's been pretty off for a while now). A head unit, some 6by9s in the rear storage bins, and some good wiring is also planned.

I'm going to keep working on this car as if it were mine. A close friend of mine that's very familiar with the car's considering it. But I need to track this car with the alignment dead on before I sell it, if I do!

PS: He got a ticket in my car, in about 20 min. of driving. Maybe I should consider a vw for daily driving, but for $3500 I don't think I can get anything that'd replace my NA.

Thanks for the ideas, we shall see how it goes.
Ahmet

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Old 05-24-2001, 05:00 PM
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keep the car.
Going to VIR?
just got my liscense back...
for the fifth time.
god i love this stuff.

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84-9445m
50% car, 50% tires, 100% driver.
Old 05-24-2001, 05:11 PM
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The oil pressure:

It dropped to right around 3, after letting the car idle for a little over 40 min. That's good, it used to drop to around 2. As I said, in the pits it would drop to 1, but NEVER any other time. The temp would also climb up to a tad past the third mark, on track. At idle, or auto-x the pressure never fell below 1.7 bars or so (indicated), so after the light flickered at idle, I decided I'd try this oil. Anyway, with the colder range thermostat, water wetter, and new coolant, the gauge is always within a couple of mm from the first mark, after the 'cold' zone, at idle anyway. It SHOULD be OK on track too, but we'll see.

PS: Also planning to route some ducting from the fog light holes, to the brakes. I'm THINKING about ram air (from behind the spoiler) as well.
Ahmet

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It's all the driver...
Old 05-24-2001, 05:15 PM
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EGS, yes I'm going to look into track events at VIR, in two weeks or so. First I have an NCAC auto-x to catch, then do the front brakes, and if I have time, the stuff mentioned above.

Tell me about your license! Also, what does the 944-5m mean?
Ahmet
Old 05-24-2001, 05:17 PM
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when you remove the thermostat there is nothing to close the recirculation chamber. that will cause it to run hotter on a load. this will also happen with an old waterpump as the gasket/o-ring for the recirculation chamber will wear and not make a good seal. when the recirculation chamber/valve is open it causes the fluid to recirculate in the engine instead of going to the radiator to transfer heat. unless you have a specific buyer for the car i would watch doing any mods to it as homegrown mods will deter alot of buyers. IMHO i would advise you to sell the n/a. after driving the turbo regularly the thought of driving the n/a will disgust you. i cannot stand to drive my n/a's ever since i got the turbo car. but on the other hand, it is nice to not be porsche-less when you are working on the turbo and it will make mods go much better when you dont have to rush the job in order to have a car to drive. so even though i just contradicted myself i have given you 2 more ways to look at it :^) beat of luck and godspeed!
Old 05-24-2001, 06:17 PM
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Keep the car. Later, while you are working on the 951, whatever you drive will seem like such a crap pile, at least if it's still a Porsche it won't be too bad. I have to drive my son's 88 Ford Ranger p/u anytime I am doing something to my 951. There are simply no words that can describe the desire to drive my car again. Then again, maybe that can be taken as an incentive to get finished quicker ! The oil leaks sound minor. Even so, when you have the 951, you can fix up the na, and when the 951 needs attention, you have the na to drive.

Dave951M

Old 05-24-2001, 06:43 PM
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