Stange noise??

CrazySOB · 05-29-2001, 04:45 AM

I started my car yesterday and it was making this strange noise. So, I left it running and climbed underneath and it's coming from the transaxle. I don't know how to describe the noise. It's not a grinding more like a vibration noise. Does anyone know what could be wrong? Any help would be great!!

Thanks Steve

dmac · dmac's Garage

Some rattling is normal for these... can you give a more detailed description? Could it be something loose in the shift rod or mechanism? Does the tranny shift okay? You might try changing the transmisison oil if it's been a while.

CrazySOB · 05-29-2001, 06:57 AM

That's all the description I can give for now. It shifts fine and I'm going right after work to get the 80w gl4 gear oil to change the oil. that was my first thought too. (I'm keeping my fingers crossed)

Thanks, Steve

CrazySOB · 06-02-2001, 10:22 AM

Well, I changed the gear oil,but it's still makes that damn noise??????????????????

When I was down there, the bracket that bolts to the top of the transmission is broke. not on the car, but broke the case of the transmission. What now-- do I have to replace the transaxle now???

Steve

951carter · 06-02-2001, 06:47 PM

it can be welded

CrazySOB · 06-03-2001, 05:43 AM

It's cast aluminum right? After I find the right person to weld it and after I put in all the work to remove and reinstall it, Does anyone know how reliable welding cast aluminum would be, ever have it done?

Thanks, Steve

Dave951M · 06-03-2001, 06:09 AM

Find someone who is very good at heliarc welding. They should be able to fix it for you if it's not too severe. The thing I would be looking for next is why did it break in the first place? Is there a bushing, or bolt loose or missing somewhere?

Dave951M

CrazySOB · 06-03-2001, 06:24 AM

When I noticed that it was boke. I went to the Haynes manual (came with car) to see what was involved to remove the tranny. In the manual I noticed the previous owner highlighted the "Differential axleshaft flange seal- replacement" section. So I thinking (I know I'm in trouble now) that he might of broke it, when he was tapping in the seal. But when I do remove it I'll look closer to see if there is a problem. Dave thanks for the tip of the Heliarc Welding.

Steve

Mrmerlin · 06-03-2001, 06:57 AM

[QUOTE]Originally posted by CrazySOB:
Hi Crazy, well the most reasonable way to break the mount on your transaxle is to jack the car up on the trans axle dont do this,it is even stated in the Hayns manual, always jack from the side or from under a suspension point .
I think this could be fixed by a good welder and hopefully it didnt braek thru to the inside of the trans , also B4 you remove the trans axle drain the oil out, goodluck ......Stan

CrazySOB · 06-03-2001, 07:00 AM

Thanks, Stan. I'm also hoping it's just the tap that broke off.

Steve

CrazySOB · 06-04-2001, 06:19 AM

I'll be pulling the Trans. this week. Is there anything I should look at while I have it out???

Thanks, Steve

Mrmerlin · 06-04-2001, 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by CrazySOB:
I'll be pulling the Trans. this week. Is there anything I should look at while I have it out???

Thanks, Steve

Hi Steve a few things to look for CV boot s no rips or cuts , remove the drivshaft coupler bolts fully B4 trying to slide it into the transmission, drain the oil and if you have a floor jack the kind they have at the gas station, use it under the differential area and also have an extra pair of hands to help, and one other thing if you have a trans cooler remove it B4 you take out the trans and CV joits, also it might help to unscrew one side of the trans mount cross member to ease getting to the top of the trans.............Stan

CrazySOB · 06-04-2001, 03:29 PM

Thank You Again, Stan. You've been a great help.

Steve

dmac · dmac's Garage

To remove the tranny you must remove the shift knob, shift lever, and move the long shift rod that goes between the shift lever and the tranny forward enough to clear the transmission. Check the shift lever (where the shift rod attaches) for wear, replace as needed. While you have the shifter apart check the rubber boot for tears, and the leather boot. Replace these as needed to keep carbon monoxide out of the cabin. Wheelskins makes a replacement leather boot for $35 that is tough to install, but looks good when done. The tranny to driveshaft coupling can be tough to slide back - remove the two bolts completely, and lube it up good. Tap it back using whatever is available (I used a "pickle fork" tool normally used to separate rod ends). When you lower the tranny using a floor jack ease it back some so that the plastic carry-through tube comes out without damage. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

CrazySOB · 06-06-2001, 02:35 PM

dmac,
I see that in the haynes manual and I just replaced the shift boot and rubber boot, now I have to tear it apart (good grief). I'm taking it (except for what you mentioned) it's pretty much straight foward.

Thanks for the tip, Steve

Cake944 · 06-06-2001, 04:30 PM

The haynes manual does not say which direction to move the coupler. It should go to the rear. (in the tranny). I had a little trouble with mine, but I used a long (24") pry bar.

CrazySOB · 06-07-2001, 10:59 AM

Thanks for the info, Cake.
Right now I'm trying to see if anyone can weld it while it's in the car.

Steve

dmac · dmac's Garage

I would not weld it in the car - it's right next to the gas tank!

lm6y · 06-07-2001, 02:10 PM

Take it out to get it welded. You run a chance of frying the DME. It's a small chance, but then you would have one more thing to fix. I'd check the clutch also while I was that far along.

Cake944 · 06-07-2001, 03:15 PM

DO NOT weld it with in the car. If it is left in, then only one side can be welded. By taking it out, the entire piece can be properly prepared and welded from all sides. The cleaner aluminum is before welding, the better the weld and the easier the process.