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Can clearcoat be reapplied or do you have to repaint?

I have an 87 951 with some paint issues. One side of the car plus the hood and the front were repainted at some time and the clearcoat is flaking off the hood, nose piece and headlight covers. Can the clearcoat be removed either mechanically or chemically and reapplied or does the whole thing have to be stripped and repainted? If it can be done easily and cost-effectively, any idea how much it would cost?

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2003, 05:19 AM
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ok, my 0.02c's

Clearcoat and basecoat is usually the same kind of paint, i.e either cellulose, water based or 2pack. If they were'nt then they would react with each other.

SO any chemical would strip top and clear coat.

You could "IF" you have the right bits and know what you are doing, remove the clearcoat. I would suggest (from a proffesional paint shop)

1. get a rotary polishing MOP head, which is very fine, also used for machine polishing topcoat before waxing.

2> with care you should be able to take down the clear coat to the basecoat. Now the end effect "should" be also the basecoat will be scoured by this process but not that bad

3. you then need a different "polishing head" so not as abrasive as before, use plently of water or recommended fluid (ask paint shop) to buff up the basecoat (DONT USE WAX)

4. Then spray the clear coat and wax as usuall.

The only problem I see, is that, usually when you spray base coat, after the final layer of basecoat (While it is still damp) yopu then need to spray the clearcoat. Otherwise you get a different sheen/colour. The clearcpat needs to sink ito the basecoat.

It might even be worth, usiing a abrasive head to remove the clearcoat and key the basecoat. And then re-spraying from scratch (NOT BARE METAL) if you do, make sure if the paint is different, ie cellulose on 2 pack, you use a barrier coat

HOPE THIS helps,

in doubt consult a reutable paint shop
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Old 10-23-2003, 05:45 AM
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I'm glad someone brought this up. My car has been keyed down the L/H side and it looks like it has just gone through the clear coat. I was hoping a clear coat could be sprayed over the existing clear coat to minimise the effect of the scratch. There are also many fine stone chips on my front spoiler and along the portion between headlights. The paint is classified as Pewter (some in the forum have called it a beige) and is metallic, so I am not keen to have the base coat redone as it seems to me that very few shops can get an exact match with metallic paint. What do you guys think of just spraying more clear coat over the existing. Spoiler unfortunately will probably need to have basecoat and clearcoat redone.Unfortunately I have a yellow undercoat that shows through on deeper stone chips.
Old 10-23-2003, 06:18 AM
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Paul,

in your case, you "could" get away with either

1. very carefull and detailed masking
2. mask in suck a way that it is not obvious , ie no stright lines

or a very gentle dust coat, to clear coat.

follow after 2 weeks with some zymol, cleaning fluid, then wax it.
may be noticeable close up, but you may get away with it.

The same argument applies as above, clearcoat is sprayed while the basecoat is slighly tacky, else you get a differnt shade.

worse comes to worse, just polish down then respray
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Old 10-23-2003, 06:32 AM
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trying to get off the clear while leaving the basecoat will leave you frustrated. professional painters don't do that, they just take it down to metal or stable substrate and shoot the color properly. i don't see any shortcuts here that leave acceptable results.

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Old 10-23-2003, 10:06 AM
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just had the roof, sunroof, hood, headlight covers, nose panel, bumper, front valance and front quarter panels stripped and repainted for $350. Had the same problem, clear coat died and car looked like it had leprosy. Touch up paint and clear coat from a spray can are ok for touch up if you are good. But you'll still have to paint sand (2000 grit sandpaper) and buff for a nice finish.

i had a friend who owns a body shop and does project work on weekends do it - used o/e color and now i have a factory baked on dupont finish.

do it right - after all it's a porsche...
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Old 10-23-2003, 10:46 AM
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Thanks guys,advice always appreciated. I also have a few minor dents where people have opened their car doors on my car. Will have those knocked out by these guys who do hail damage repairs without needing to respray. Swore I would never get another metallic car but this was too good to let go 2 years ago. Odd though, with any other car I have had would just leave these defects as they would not be big enough to worry me.
Old 10-23-2003, 09:56 PM
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I'm an antique boat nut, have two mahogany speedboats and a cruiser in the water now. The varnish acts like the clear coat. It gets dull over time. We sand the outer layer down with fine sandpaper, but the next coat of varnish looks like magic.

I'm thinking this can be done with clear coat. Why not give the clear coat some "tooth" by sanding it down with fine sandpaper and use a degreaser, it will make the finish look a bit milky, but then the top coat of more clear coat may just make it look new.

I suppose someone could do a test on a flip up light cover or something without sacrificing their full bodywork. In concept I think it should work, but in practice I'd discuss it with an old timer paint guy.

good luck, I have the same issues with my '84

P
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Old 10-24-2003, 01:30 PM
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Old 10-24-2003, 01:30 PM
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