oh.

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keith
'86 951 redNeckarsulm

Sorry, I don't think so. There is no idle stabilizer or cold start injector on an 84 944. Idle stabilizers were first used in 85.5. Richard

Well, if that part doesn't exist on the 84 944, what part is it exactly thats sitting under the intake on top of the engine right where my mechanic said the Idle stabilizer would be on the 944? Or is it possible to have the top half of the engine be a 1985 1/2 or higher on the 1984 model 944? Theres something located exactly where the idle stablilizer would be.. Any thoughts?

AAV-Auxilary Air Valve. It supplies extra air durring warm up only. Richard

[This message has been edited by RIchard944 (edited 08-16-2001).]

Richard is right, it is the Aux Air Valve, which helps on cold starts because it lets the extra air in ... look for my previous threads on this issue (AAV) and you'll see what I mean, I had to take mine out and clean, adjust, and test it ...

It has a bimetallic strip that closes as the engine heats up (within 30-60 seconds) ...

Also, there is NO cold start injector or valve, early 944s just have the DME telling the injectors to run rich for the first 12 seconds or so, then it starts listening to the O2 sensor and the other sensors and cuts down on the fuel ...

E

OK...let me step in here for a quick moment. On my 83 my car started to act like yours, drove me crazy. Called the mechanic and he said check the easy stuff first. He told me to check the o-ring on the air by-pass screw which as you all know sits next to the throttle cam. I took it out and well what do you know....that thing was toast. Went to the local hardware store and bought a replacement o-ring for about 12 cents. Put it on the screw, screwed it back in and started the car and well what do you know.....perfect idle. This of course is after I checked EVERYTHING. It eneded up being a 12 cent part and took 5 minutes to fix. Such is life with a Porsche 944. http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/smile.gif
Mouse

Yeah.. I heard of stories where one tiny electrical connectorwas bad.. After hours of diagnosis, it turned out the part needed was maybe 25 cents. Parts- .25 Labor- $300 after all the checks were done. Hitlers Revenge.

Plugs wire cap and rotor should fix the problem

OK guys.. I went to take it to the shop today. I went out this morning, it started right off the bat. Running fine (so I thought)for about 2 miles or so. After it got nice and warmed up it crapped out again. Took it to the shop and looked at a few things, checked to see if its getting fuel, losing spark, etc.. All of that tested out fine. After the engine had cooled, we had the fuel pressure guage on it and it started and ran fine for about 15 min or so when we shut it down. Is this sounding like a AAV fault. When we tried to start it after arriving at the shop via tow truck, there was an odor of gas. But after the engine had cooled, it started and ran fine once again.