Replacing Crossmember

Ehab · 08-21-2001, 12:56 PM

Hey guys, I am in desperate need of advice on what to do here ...

My crossmember (84 944), which is the metal piece connecting the two A-arms and holding the engine, was damaged as I drove onto a pavement by mistake ...

It is still okay, but has a hairline crack in it, and I want to know if I should get it welded ... or replace it completely if I can do the job myself ...

can I do the job myself?

Thanks.
E

p0r2chby · 08-21-2001, 12:59 PM

if cracked, it must be replaced.

how's your mechanical ability and tool chest.. You'll need some way to support the engine etc.

Ehab · 08-21-2001, 02:34 PM

the biggest jobs I've done are to reseal the oil cooler, remove-paint-install the headers, and change the power steering pump, radiator etc ... pretty much anything around the engine, but never the engine itself.

I can get a friend to help me out, how long do you think it would take???? I read the instructions in the 944-garage, and I guess you have to take off the A-arms, sway bar, and steering rack before removing the cross member ... is there anything else to it, besides supporting the engine on stands??

thanks,
Ehab

p0r2chby · 08-21-2001, 02:50 PM

You may want to thing about replacing stuff while you have the lower half of the car this far apart.

Items that are in the area include your motor mounts, the pan gasket (only if leaking, it's a major pain to do), sway bar bushings as well as having a look at your a-arm bushings. No need to remove the struts or anything so going after springs is extra work. As usual, you will need a front end allignent after the job is done.

Ehab · 08-21-2001, 06:16 PM

Right on ... I chatted with my friend who will help me do the job, and I order a pair of new motor mounts and sway bar bushings. As far as I can tell, the A-arm bushings don't look worn, so I'll stick with the old ones ... thanks for the advice ... wish me luck.

What is the best way to hold the engine up? we don't have a hoist, so would a pair of jackstands with wooden blocks work on the oil pan?
thanks again

E

White951 · White951's Garage

The wooden blocks on a stand or jack is what I used to support the enging while I dropped the cross member to change the motor mounts.
Make sure the hood is open before you raise the motor otherwise dented hood.

John

1.2gees · 1.2gees's Garage

I've had to do this three times total, so if you have any problems let me know.

As far as I'm concerned, the oil pan is not only a major PITA, but it's also A LOT more work (you'd have to support the engine from above).

Infact, I think even motor mounts can be overlooked, unless they're in bad shape. Changing a crossmember out by itself is no big deal. Follow the instructions carefully, and it should go smooth. Take the cross member to a-arm bolts out, take the 4 bolts that hold the cross member to the frame off, and the two bolts for the motor mounts, and you're off. The engine can be supported from underneath with jackstands, and a wood 'plate' (but I would recommend setting the car on the jackstands, and using the jack to support the engine, if the jack's tight enough. This way you can keep the engine at precisely the height it would normally be sitting at).

PS: I've got an extra cross member if you need one, as well as two used (but still usable, and straight) ATE Powerslott cross slotted rotors for the front.
Ahmet

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It's all the driver...
My page over1g@hotmail.com
Porsche owners Gallery.../My 944

Ehab · 08-23-2001, 11:05 AM

thanks ahmet, I just emailed you about the spare xmember .. what shape is it in, and how much would you want for it with shipping to boston?

thanks.
E

MadMax · MadMax's Garage

If you mark the position (by scribing in the metal) of the cross member and the rear A-arm mounts you WILL NOT need a front end alignment. If you don't do this then go ahead and pay for the alignment. It's just an option I thought I would through out there.

Max

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Max
91 944S2 Cabriolet
89 911 Carrera (fomerly)

Obin Robinson · 08-23-2001, 02:07 PM

besides wooden blocks, also get a hold of some strips of rubber. i've used bits of tires which were cut up into squares. it makes a nice soft surface, and one that is even more slip-proof than wood. use BOTH for the best non-skid and non-damaging surface to rest the engine on. just cut a tire with a set of tin snips or wire cutters.... or, a junkyeard may already have bits of rubber that you can use.

good luck!

obin

Ehab · 08-23-2001, 02:25 PM

thanks for the tips guys,
Obin ... why did it take you so long to do the mounts? and will it take me as long even if I drop the crossmember?

Thanks.
E

Obin Robinson · 08-23-2001, 02:48 PM

we did a bunch of other work while we did the mounts. cleaned up the engine, etc.

that crossmember is in the way, so is the exhaust. remove these and it should be easier. MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS KEPT STABLE THOUGH.

good luck!

obin

1.2gees · 1.2gees's Garage

Ehab, you've got mail, and I've got pictures.

IM me if you're on anytime soon: over1g
Ahmet

------------------
It's all the driver...
My page over1g@hotmail.com
Porsche owners Gallery.../My 944

lordgrommit · 08-23-2001, 10:08 PM

Hate to Disagree with the mob but I'd have it welded find someplace that uses TIG to weld Aluminum. Shouldn't cost too much around here prob under $50 and will be as strong as it was in the first place.

Matt

Ehab · 08-24-2001, 07:33 AM

Thanks Matt, but I already ordered the parts and am planning on doing the work (in addition to the mounts and s-bar bushings and steering connecting rod) next weekend ...

The parts cost me about $300 with shipping, but should be well worth it after the steering is fixed and the motor mounts replaced.

E

Ehab · 08-29-2001, 10:48 AM

Hey Matt, I just got the parts, and I also forgot to tell you that I didn't opt for the welding because not only is the xmember cracked, but it also has a piece missing, which broke off when I had my small accident ..

How can you tell which motor mounts are the early ones, and which are the turbo upgrade?

E