What mods do do and in what order?
 

for a tubro... and if you could add a general price to that would be sweet!

ive heard a chip first (best bang for the buck ect...)

what else? catback? fuel system? intake/maf?

thakns

Drogue chute.

I'm no mod but I usually do do first thing in the morning. Ahmet, Z-man?? Others feel free to express.:D

Chip and adjustable fuel regulator together. Would think that an MAF would be the next item as long as the chip can manage it. New plug wires, cap and rotor is most always a good idea. Stock is sufficent.

High flow CAT. Don't know about after market exhaust systems. Some say they help others didn't feel a difference. With a turbo I would think it would help.

BOV. Increase the pressure. If you dare.

how reliable would all this be?

Think the most potential for damage is messing with the BOV (blow off valve) settings. Also having a higher rev limit in the chip.

The first mod is to do all the "defered maintenance" then you can do other things.

Here's what I did 50K miles and 40+ track events ago in the order I did them.

1. K27dr turbo and MAF and fuel pressure increase with 1.0 bar boost at 95K miles. Naturally, this included a chip change.

2. Extrude honed intake runners and new head matched to runners at 110K miles. Head is o-ringed.

3. Replaced boost tubes with larger ones and reamed throttle body

4. Increased boost to 1.1 bar at 132K miles

Engine has 145K on it now with no problems.

Next on the to do list is a second oil cooler.

how much did step 1 cost you?

is this an n/a or a turbo?

if it's an n/a I would gut the cat (FREEBIE), remove rear seat and extra moldings/carpeting (FREEBIE), then go for a 951 rear sway bar (probably ~$100-125 by the time u get the bar and mounting brackets), and after that I would go w/ a FR WILKS power prom 2 (i've heard good things, I believe it's ~$100-150), then make a custom intake (~$50 for a K&N cone, can stop there or go with piping), custom 2.5 inch exhaust (~$100 for a muffler and less than $100 for piping). Not sure what else could really be done, but make sure you DO ALL MAINTANENCE FIRST!!! ie: suspension bushings, belts, replace shift linkage etc...

EDIT: Sorry, just realized it was for a turbo, some of it still applies though.

Like it has been mentioned.... make sure the cars maintenance is up to snuff.

$ = 300-500
$$ = 1000-2500
$$$ = 2500-5000
$$$$ = 5000+ and the only one I have seen has spent 10K

Now we are talking of a good running car that will hold and maintain these power levels...... not one or 2 runs....... a good hour on the track

250 rwhp $
300 rwhp $$
350 rwhp $$$
400 rwhp $$$$
400+ You better have sponsors or deep pockets.

How you get to these levels is up to you.........many fun and exciting options.

:)

You must mean the boost cycling valve.

The BOV (blow off valve) just relieves boost pressure within the charge tube during sudden closed throttle situations (such as shifting). By relieving the pressure it helps to keep impeller wheel up to speed as well as preventing a sudden spike in pressure.

So alex, who is your sponsor?.......:D

hehehe last year.... I was having problems with my Profec A (solenoid rusted) and I was driving with no boost control....

Boost would build ...and build ...and build.... I saw 25+ psi a couple of times..... hehehehe..... Surprised she didnt detonate and blow the head gasket..

My Wife.....

She got her kitchen today... :)

oooooh and you should see the ceramic coated headers... YUMMMY

Cool!!!!!!!!!.........I will be sending a whole box of "stuff" call me when its done....:D

Needcash,
Have you even bought the car yet, or are you still thinkin. There are many shops that have web sites that show the mods you can do to boost a turbo up to 500HP (not sure how long that would last). A lot depends on what you want to do with the car.

If you're going to drive it street and maybe some AX/DE/Club racing, then first do the maintenance and stock tune up. That will take a decent amount of time and loose change, and slow down spurious ambitions.

Then take a good hard look at all the suspension bushings and joints. A smooth running motor and a tight porsche suspension = fun for any newbee.

Then think about tightening up the suspension - Better shocks and struts, stiffer springs, bigger anti-sway bars.

Then Brakes - drilled rotors, braide SS lines, Hi Performance pads

Then once you've become one with the car, and can handle any curve the AX track planner throws at you. "Stahd playin wid de moder."

Starting at the intake; MAF kit, bored throttle body, adjustable FPR, higher rate injectors, adjusable BOV, cat back exhaust and Go.

Surprised the stroker kit has not come up here.
Although it is huge bucks.

Yo! Cash,

you haven't gotten flamed yet but, you're close.

In past posts you stated you wished to have a street driver that can double as a track car and drag racer. man, these options just don't exist. I, like you 25 years ago thought of having it all ( drag car and driver) after the first tow home and no way to get to work I woke up.

A 924/44/51 are great cars if used for intended purposes. They handle well, have a nice top speed, and reliable with proper maintenance and fun! (emphasis on fun). They cannot be what they are not, perhaps you need to pay attention to "Monster Garage" and quit posting.

We like nothing more than to help you and all others but hey!
1. You don't have a vehicle
2. Not alot a $$
3. Live in an area winter lasts for 8 months
4. OH, and to the point of "How do I turbo my N/A" in not so few words

Give him a break! Geez the kid is only asking. He isn't going off half cocked like Zlatko. Only way to understand something you don't is to ask. He is doing just that!
And what the heck does winter have to do with it? I live right below him and drive mine all winter long. I used to live in Fla. and I can tell you my car will run better here than there..not trying to suck in 2 gallons of water in the air.
Bottom line he is just checking his options and doing so very respectively. Sman