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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 580
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DME cable problems
I'm in the process of getting my engine out of the 951 and everything went pretty good so far. I'm doing most of it with Clarks instructions (http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-01.htm) where point 6 states:
"Pull the DME control unit plug through the opening in the firewall and into the engine compartment. (There may be several other cable connectors near the DME that have wires running in the DME wire bundle which will have to be disconnected to get the wire bundle through the firewall. Ensure all wires are disconnected before attempting to pull the bundle through the firewall).". Somehow i just can't get any movement in the cable at all. And the most annoying thing is that one of the bolts holding the cable down isn't coming off as well. I included two pictures: Here you see the cable i'm talking about and the rubber thing that keeps everything waterproof (very hard to get any movement in it at all). This is the bolt that's holding it down, it seems like it's completly stuck. Any tips/experience on this issue? Thanks in advance! |
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It would be nice if you could pull that bolt out...........
But I normally start pulling the engine out (I pull mine from the top)...... Just pry the rubber away from the firewall and you will get a little more slack on the cables..........
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Alex - PCA Polar Region - Boxster Muncher 86' 944 Turbo - Megasquirt - 326 rwhp/340lbft @ 18 psi SOLD www.edmontonhomelife.com www.edmontonrealestate.ws |
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I'm afraid i'll strip the bolt, because it's pretty stuck in there. Also: why are you removing it from the top and not lower it like all the manuals say?
Just curious...
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I've tried the bolt again, no luck. Any tips on that (heat it up or something?). Are these intake manifold bolts famous for it's 'stuckiness'??
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Those bolts can be a *@*(@ to remove......... heat would be nice.... but a little too much rubber in those parts....
Have you tried waking it up. With the allen socket (you are using a socket not an allen wrench RIGHT)..... place it on the bolt and tap it with a hammer. The vibration can help loosen the bolt. The bolt is in at 20NM....but I have seen some hammer heads do wonders on that bolt and torqued it more. The nice thing is that if you do strip it out.... its fairly easy to get at with a drill...... **** The only reason I pulled the engines from the top is that I did not have the clearance with my jackstands to drop it. On a turbo dropping the engine is the way to go...... but I have done NA and turbos from above.
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Alex - PCA Polar Region - Boxster Muncher 86' 944 Turbo - Megasquirt - 326 rwhp/340lbft @ 18 psi SOLD www.edmontonhomelife.com www.edmontonrealestate.ws |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 580
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Yeah tried some of that, but this is not 20NM... no way
More likely to be 200nm. I think that all the heating/cooling results in this @#@$@$ removal... i'll get the drill ![]() Oh: my 'tools' english is not that good so to avoid miscommunication. With an allen wrench i think you mean the hex tool that has a short and a long end with a 90 degree twist that divides both. And the socket is where you put the hex extension in?? Am i right, or did i just swap the two terms? |
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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 580
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Yeah! Look at these
![]() ![]() Got the bloody bolt out with some brute force and elegant spraying of lubrication.... oh and of course: 'waking it up'. The result |
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Hooooray............
The work has only begun.
__________________
Alex - PCA Polar Region - Boxster Muncher 86' 944 Turbo - Megasquirt - 326 rwhp/340lbft @ 18 psi SOLD www.edmontonhomelife.com www.edmontonrealestate.ws |
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