is there a trick to removing front seats?
 

Ive been working on the front seat rail bolts for about 20 minutes now. they turn fine but they are not backing out any further. the rear seat rail bots came out fine.
If i try to lift the seat out it seems like the bolts are still holding it in but i cant figure out how.
is there a secret unaccesable nut that i cant see? any help would be appreciated

no trick...I just removed mine earlier today for the first time. just unscrew the back and front rail bolts and pop 'em out.

yours are stripped............

pry up the rail as you are backing it out.... and that will pull the bolt up

The front seat bolts on the early 944's have a floating nut under the sheet metal. These are rectangular pieces of metal that are held in place by more sheet metal. The nut rusts up and the sheet metal bends out. Prying up as you turn them may help.

Yep, other than that it's very simple - four 10mm bolts per seat. And four washers. That's it.

A good soaking in PB Blaster would be a good idea too. Stuff stinks but it works.

Use a 1/4" drive ratchet. 3/8" drive is too big to fit between the bolt and the seat.

Does the nut shift or fall out once the seat bolts are removed? How do you remedy bent sheet metal and rusted bolts before reinstalling the seats? Do you have to drill through holes and back up the nut with a large washer?
I haven't tried to take mine out yet but I plan on it tonight.

yeah when i got my car the seats were loose so i tighted the bolts but they got loose again and now they dont want to tighten. is the only way to get them to tighten to either tap a new whole or weld them down?

You have to use new lock washers. Lock washers only lock once, after that, they're just a wierd looking spacer.

It's typical of the front seat bolts on the early 944's to pull through the sheet metal. This is because they are designed to float for seat alignment and the sheet metal is too thin.

be careful guys, dont let this get away from you! i discovered this one about 2 years ago. i was pulling away from my drive, and stepping on the "loud" pedal, when suddenly i was staring at the roof, with my feet caught up under the dash! if these nuts/bolts let go, and pull thru the light material, trust me, your seat will go rapidly backwards,and upwards and try to eject its self.
all i did to remedy the situation, was to remove an area the same width, and about 4 ins long. replace with substantially thicker material, and weld back in there. hmm, cant remember if i also did the same for the passenger seat. now this could be interesting for my girlfriend!
anyways, its really a good idea, to check it out, and repair, as it could have some serious consequences. i was lucky.
bob.

haha man, you must be psychic SoCal, i just pulled the left side bolt right through the floor.
So much for not breaking more than i fix :(

damn it, im i going to have to weld something in to get the seat back in there?
The only reason im doing this is to fix the parking break lever so i can pass inspection. Im already more broke than i ever thought possible, i cant afford to have someone do work on my car right now and i cant weld.

if you have just the rear bolts for the rails in, adjust your seat carefully :) I have only 3 bolts for my driver's seat in because the dip**** who owned my car before me used self-tapping sheet metal screws to put in some horrible non-compatible seats. You could always do that, too. Use some self-tapping sheet metal screws. Make sure the top sliding part of the rail clears, though.

I just removed my drivers side seat. It came out easily. I weighed it on the scale and it came in at a porkly 30 lbs. WOW.

Rub it in my face why dont you?
;)

If you think the early seats are heavy weigh a later seat with the electric motors and reinforced frame for the seat belt anchor.