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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Virginia
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Rear Wheel Bearing Question

I am replacing the wheel bearings on my 83' and I purchased all of the parts ahead of dismantling the axel. In addition to the seals and bearings Peilcan also lists a Wheel beaering O Ring so I bout it but in reading over the proceedure on Clark's Garage I can not see where it goes. I see the seals the spacers and the bearings but no Seal. Does anybody know if this item Pelican Part O-Ring for Rear Wheel Bearing, Inner, 924/944 (1977-01/85), 113-501-291B each is used on an 83' 944?
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Old 06-17-2004, 12:53 PM
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The o-ring goes between the parking brake backing plate and the trailing arm housing. When you take it off to get to the outer roller bearing you should see where it goes.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Old 06-17-2004, 01:55 PM
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Found it thanks for sharing your knowledge. Now another one if I may: Again referring to Clark's garage, it says "make sure that the chamfered edge of the bearing is facing out (from the center of the trailing arm)." My question is on the two that I removed I do not see a difference on either side can you describe what I am looking for on the new ones so that I can distinguish the difference between sides? Thanks
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Old 06-18-2004, 07:19 AM
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Most aftermarket bearings are symetrical. I've not seen any difference in them lately. I try to have the bearing cage to the outside on the ball bearing.

The most important consideration is in the spacers. These also are the contacts for the seals to ride on. If there is a grove cut by the old seal then you should replace the spacer. Many just buy the complete set; inner and outer and the center sleeve.

The inner spacer has a huge bevel on the inside. This has to go against the spindle flange as a relief for the axle to flange radius.

The outer spacer has a small bevel on the outside. This goes against the roller bearing inner race as the full spacer sometimes hits the roller bearing cage.

You need to replace the stub axle if it is under size where the roller bearing inner race rides. If you have a local racing community then contact an engine blueprinting shop and ask them where you can get the axle plasma plated and reground.

Clean out all the old grease. Use a moly based grease to assemble.

Torque to 350 ft lbs and use a new cotter key.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-18-2004, 01:26 PM
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Thank you. did right side today and it went with out a hitch although when I remounted the hub (before tightning the hub there was some play I asume that is not normal. Which is more likely to wear first the stub axel or the hub?
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Old 06-19-2004, 08:06 PM
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Unfortunately both. If it's worn beyond spec you will know in less than 10,000 miles.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-19-2004, 08:50 PM
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I am working on my 84 as well and i had the exact opposite problem. You have play where as i have to use a block of wood and 20 minutes with a hammer to get the stub axle inside. I replaced my stub axles with some low mileag ones.

Not to highjack, but my bearings aren't easy to spin, is that bad? When i got the bearings they didnt's spin to easy new, then added the grease and made it worse. Now it's stiff to spin the hub. Is this just becuase i havent driven it yet and 'set' the grease? I am using Valvoline synthetic.
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Old 06-20-2004, 05:55 PM
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Never had a new bearing that wasn't fairly easy to spin takining it to account the grease.

Use a moly based grease as it repels water better.

I think you have damaged the cages that keep the bearings from climbing over each other. I have never had to do more than tap rear bearings and axles into place. Less force than required to set the seal into the hub and p-brake backing plate.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-20-2004, 06:10 PM
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It was just the inside that was hard to do. The outside i just tapped a hammer against my hand on the bearing. My hands were covered in grease and i kept dropping the wood. It was merely to insure it went in even. The inside bearing felt like it or the housing was out of round. I am not too worried about it though. I bought a new trailing arm for $80 for the driver side, was sent an entire assembly caliper, hub, stub axle, rotor, bearings, lines, everything. Problem was the guy sent me the passenger side. He shipped me the driver side now and said to keep the other one. If i absolutely need to i can replace it. I have an extra set or rear bearings because i am not going to disassemble the new assembly he sent me.
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1984 Porsche 944 na

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Enkei 15x7's
Fog/headlight mod to come

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Old 06-20-2004, 06:17 PM
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If the inner ball bearing came out easy then the replacement ball bearing should have gone back in easy.

You did remove the clip first...
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-20-2004, 06:31 PM
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Did you clean your bearings before greasing them? If not it might still have the tacky oily goo (technical term) from the factory
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Old 06-20-2004, 06:55 PM
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Cosmoline.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-20-2004, 07:09 PM
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ahh cosmoline. I hate it. Nope didnt even think to clean them. Yeah i did remove the clip I thought maybe i put the bearing in crooked, but the clip went in fine with no play or anything. The old bearing was rather hard to remove but not nearly as hard as it was to put the new one in. These bearings were reaplaced because i was able to push the cotter pin out and twist the axle nut off with my index finger and thumb.

small cotter pin + loose axle nut = destroyed stub axle teeth, destroyed hub teeth, destroyed inner and outer bearings, and whatever it is that caused my bearings to be diffucult to install.

The other side was even worse. I had to use a ratchet to remove the nut which was about 60 ft lbs, much tighter although no better. The e-brake assembly plate was worn through at the top, 4 rollers, 3 balls, metal shards everywhere, badley scored stub axle with all spacers FUSED onto it. Other minor damage includes brand new firehawks being completely bald on the inside.

I am repacking the CV joints while i am at it. I am doing this all in my yard and there are a few tiny pieces of dried cut grass that have gotten into various grease prevalent areas. Will this hurt anything?

What's wrong with using Valvoline Synthetic grease? I believe it says its rated over 500 degrees. The grease almost felt like foam when i was packing bearings, very fluffy and light.
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1984 Porsche 944 na

Black on Black leather
Digital Dash
Auto dimming rear view mirror
Enkei 15x7's
Fog/headlight mod to come

AIM - ShawnMacAnanny
Old 06-20-2004, 07:41 PM
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You will find out in less than 10,000 miles if your rear axles are going to last. This includes the grease.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-20-2004, 10:20 PM
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Well if i make it 10k that's plenty enough for me. I have an entire spare passenger side assembly and a whole set of new bearings for the driver side, plus an extra stub axle, so if the bearings do go i can replace it all.
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1984 Porsche 944 na

Black on Black leather
Digital Dash
Auto dimming rear view mirror
Enkei 15x7's
Fog/headlight mod to come

AIM - ShawnMacAnanny
Old 06-21-2004, 04:48 AM
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Guess so. I would think that a new assembly would last at least 100,000 miles. You will be surpized how fast that 10,000 miles, or less, comes.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 06-21-2004, 04:52 AM
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Yeah i have traveled 6,000 in one month before. My mom gave me a Mobile speed pass for a birthday present. I skipped school just about everyday and went to the beach or out of state malls and theme parks. She took it away the next month when she got the bill for $756 But then again my last car only lasted 7k miles and i had it for7 months. Either way i LOVE to work on cars so it's not a bad thing when they break provided i have enough spare cash to pay for parts.
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1984 Porsche 944 na

Black on Black leather
Digital Dash
Auto dimming rear view mirror
Enkei 15x7's
Fog/headlight mod to come

AIM - ShawnMacAnanny
Old 06-21-2004, 05:15 AM
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