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Angry Changed Oil Pan Gasket Drove Fine Next Day No Oil Pressure Help!!

Well, Here I am once again. Needing help for my problem child. *1986 944 n/a* My ordeal started when I decided to replace a leaking oil pan gasket. Everything went smooth as can be. Changed the gasket, fresh oil with a quart of Lucas, new oil filter started car everything was fine oil pressure read normal. Now time to drive the car. Car ran smooth, drove perfectly. Everything was reading correctly and running smoothly for hours. The car was started and shut down around 20 times. Now, time for the car to be put to bed. So, yesturday I went to go to work, started the car and no oil pressure!!! Ahhhh. So, now that I was really alive and in utter dismay, I shut the car off and hoped it was a dream. But unfortunatly it wasn't a bad dream. Red lights staring at me, like I was just hit upside the head with a baseball bat. So I had to drive the Ford to work. Came home went to clarks-garage and found the trouble shooting page. I tried everything on that page that I possibly could. I'm just praying this isn't the oil pump. Could I have accidently knocked the oil pickup tube loose and after driving it and hitting bumps have knocked it out? The guage and the car ran perfectly until I put it to bed and went to wake it up. This has me going crazy because why would everything run fine and smooth until I let it sit over night? Can anyone help me???? Please!!!!
Old 07-21-2004, 06:42 PM
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You may have already done this...Did you check to see that you did not dislodge the oil pressure sending unit wires while working the pan from under the car...? Maybe a bump or to did them in?
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Old 07-21-2004, 06:46 PM
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Yes, I had checked that out yesturday, one wire was loose and I tightened it back up. It didn't change the reading. Then after work today I took the sending unit out cleaned it up checked the wires again and sadly still the same red lights and the gauge sitting at 0. I also thought it might have lost it's prime, so I took of the old oil filter which it was full of oil put some oil in the hole and put on a brand new filter and started the car. Still same thing. So today, before I took off the sending unit, I took off the oil filter to see if there was oil in it. It had very little more like none in it. So I'm narrowing the problem down to either the oil pump or a fallen pick up line. Any ideas????
Old 07-21-2004, 07:04 PM
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Oil pumps SELDOM fail. Couples witht he fact that you DID have oil pressure after the gasket change, and now you do not.

Double check by checking torque on the crank pulley bolt.

Chances are, you knocked the pickup tube loose.

AFJuvat
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Old 07-21-2004, 07:44 PM
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Woo Hoo, my problem child is up and running!!!!!!!! I figured out the problem with my oil pressure in my sleep. I had a dream I fixed it and the next day I took my dream into action and it worked. My whole problem was I made motor honey. The day I changed the oil pan gasket I put in a quart of Lucas and Castol Oil 10W30. Well, on this particular day it was hot, then later that night it cooled down way to much. So what had happened when it was hot the oil was thin enough to keep the oil pressure, after it cooled down and sat over night the oil thickend and turn into mototr honey. So I got my self a few cans off brake cleaner lifted my car onto the jacks droped the oil pan after I drained the oil of course. Took a flashlight and a can of break cleaner and started spraying. As I came upon using the second can white gel started oozing from my pickup screen. So I kept spraying and spraying until nothing came off the pickup screen. I put my car back together put in some valvoline 10W30 and crossed my fingers. As I started my car up the oil gauge went and now my problem child purrs like a new kitten. So in this awful delema I have learned a valuable lesson never ever mix catrol oil and Lucas. That combination doesn't work unless you live in the desert where it hardly ever cools down, even then I would not recommend it not even to my worst enemy.
Old 07-25-2004, 06:50 PM
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Outstanding!
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Old 07-25-2004, 07:02 PM
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Great Observation!

IIRC- the last things put into the oil before my 86' NA blew up was....Castrol GTX 20/50 with Lucas oil stabilizer! I honestly believe the Lucas product is not what its cracked up to be. You see all those gearwheel store demos, and you think it will help.

I think this product actually ruins motors- because heat chases this substance away from the components that most need the extra lubrication.

Zach
Old 08-14-2004, 04:35 AM
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I have been a long time Mercedes enthusiast and keep reasonably current with factory utterings. They say never put anything in your crankcase except motor oil. No additives, period. That is what the MB factory says about its engines. They are quite emphatic about it.

The only additive product they recommend is water wetter for the coolant system.
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Old 08-14-2004, 05:35 AM
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Someone here said master MB mechanics run some ATF in the crankcase just before an oil change to clean it out. Interesting, but I don't think I'd do it.
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Old 08-14-2004, 09:53 AM
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I don't believe that is a wise thing to do. I recall an old professor in engineering school recommending running some kerosene in the crankcase to clean it out. I would not do that either. The ATF fluid discussion came up a few years ago on a MB list. The gurus said never do it.
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Old 08-14-2004, 11:02 AM
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I am curious what lucas would do here in the winter at -30. Thats scary.

I second lawrences opinion....... The cap says fill with oil..... no mention of anything else.
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Old 08-14-2004, 11:08 AM
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I've never heard of any of our MB techs putting ATF in the crankcase here. (MB shop) I've heard of BMW techs using that approach. MB AND Porsche both say not to use any additives, but the reason you don't want to use additives in the 944 is because of the compound makeup of the cylinder walls.
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Old 08-14-2004, 01:09 PM
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the only thing lucas i put in my moms car was the atf stablizer...i put a bottle in with a tranny flush, and it smoothed it out a lot, but after i got it flushed a few more times without it..it drives better so i dont think it did anything. Its supposed to be added to dirty old oil for those lazy ppl who dont want to change their oil cuse it has additives that rejuvenate old oil..what a load of crap if you ask me..anyone doing that doesnt need to own a car.
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Old 08-15-2004, 07:03 PM
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Additives+German cars=$$$$

I tried using additives in my 1986 Porsche 944 NA, and the end result, was a blown motor. I was using Berryman's B-12 ChemTool
fuel additive, with Toluene- a hydrocarbon compound, often found in race fuels. The car did accelerate better, and mileage improved. But the kerosene-based substance killed my fuel injector seals, causing the FI to stream fuel- instead of lightly misting it inside the combustion chamber.

Another additive used was Lucas' Oil Stabilizer. I was sold by the in-store gear-drive displays, of how it "enhanced" existing motor oil. Believe NONE of it. Lucas' product changed the color of the oil, to a light tan color. This is a result of the additive mixing with the motor oil, causing it to foam-up. When lubricants start foaming...they are virtually useless. Friction co-efficient skyrockets, and the heat of the motor actually starts chasing the oil away!

Stay away from Bardahl No-Smoke also. This molasses-looking oil thickener causes the same net effect of the Lucas' Oil Stabilizer. It also eliminates the micrometers-thick oil film, pistons need to move smoothly inside a cylinder bore. In fact- adding these will only contaminate your lubrication system, requiring a thorough flushing of the engine.

When German OEM manufacturers recommend certain products- they really mean it. Another "additive" component I consider close to a recipe for disaster- is the K&N Filtercharger-brand of air filtration products. Tests clearly show the element is nothing more than five layers of thin, surgical-grade gauze, sandwiched between two layers of wire mesh window screening, bound by a molded RIM-polyurethane frame. However it is true volumetric CFM is considerably increased- the downside is that microscopic particles accumulate at an accelerated rate. This is certainly NOT GOOD for an engine. It is the caked-on matter, that largely contributes to cylinder-wall scoring. OEM maker Mahle manufactures their paper/fiberglass pleated air filters under sterile conditions- at a greater cost to produce, than the K&N product. This only tells us K&N exists merely to acheive maximum
profitability. Through excellent timing, and an industry-wide marketing blitz- K&N almost cornered the specialty-application market, supplying 90% of professional race teams.

In closing- lets all keep it very simple: OEM-quality is best.

Zach
Old 08-16-2004, 02:18 AM
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