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pics...new project...

Okay...she's my project...but she'll still have "PSN" on her...


...anyways...

Got a rental car last Thursday, drove to Carbondale, Illinois, picked her up, drove to St. Louis, then drove rher home. So here's the first pics...

~~the good~~




~~the ugly~~






rust!! it's been patched but it had a real horrible job done to it...



After scraping and chipping the bad iron off...



The big rusty spot is my first project. Not sure if I want to find another rocker and weld it in or if I want to just patch it as is....


...Now...

Things she needs new:

Guage cluster
Good oil PSI guage
Good Water temp guage
minor exhaust work
major body repair (rust)
New interior lighting...very dim
Speakers and stereo control...system inoperable

Things I'm unsure about....

A/C control...pump not coming on with switch, unsure why
Logicon in general...I think I just don't know how to use it
Cruise Control...can't find an on/off switch, lever on steering wheel inoperable


Things I'm gonna do...

Paint sucks, strip down to primer (if good) and repaint either original color or copper.
Exhaust sounds horrible...glasspacks should be banned.
FR Wilks ship (+dyno)
Some other ****.
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Old 07-25-2004, 02:31 PM
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Looks like my car when i first got her...a project as well! Good luck man!
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Old 07-25-2004, 03:42 PM
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I did something dumb, though...lol...I went and pressure washed the engine bay (thoroughly, but the car was cold)...got her all nice and wet and now she won't start. I don't know why I insist on washing the engine bay...no matter what vehicle it is, when I wash the engine bay, I have a hard time getting her started....

...off to find a can of B12 chemtool...
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Old 07-25-2004, 04:09 PM
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Can anyone guess what's going on here?

http://www.performancescene.net/forum/attachment.php?postid=24357

My grandfather, who spent almost his entire life as either a sailor (Navy) or a journeyman body man, has taught me a number of great things when it comes to working on a car's body...one of the most important and most often used of these lessons is "inanimate objects are your friends".

Simply tie a chain to the effected bumper and something more solid than it's self, back up a foot or so, pull forward. It doesn't require great force, often you can just jet the car move on it's own and let it bounce against the chain a couple times.

I don't have a good "before" shot, but this is almost exactly the stock location...a little heat or a good long day in the sun and the plastic will even shape it's self back to match.

http://www.performancescene.net/forum/attachment.php?postid=25767

Now back to the rust...
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Old 07-25-2004, 04:47 PM
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Hey,

Best of luck with your project...You picked a good year to work from....Ahhh the endless hours that we spend....

Hopefully I will have some pics of my restoration soon as well..
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:07 PM
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I didn't look at too many pics 'cause I'm at home, but what year is it? I might have most of a gauge cluster for you if it's a 85.5 or newer.

nate
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:30 PM
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'86 model. If you got it...I need the odometer/tripometer in particular...but I'll take what you got.
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:32 PM
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I have everything but the combo gauge with the oil pressure gauge in it (need it for my car.) Odo is busted, needs the usual gear. email me

njnagel at toad dot net

if you want what I have. Oh, I wouldn't use the plexi from mine either, it's all scratched and, um, some guy tried to fix the light guides and ended up making an unholy mess instead. (nobody I know, that's for sure )

nate
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:35 PM
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thanks man, but I'd like to try and find a working odometer (I'm aware of my odds )...I'll let you know if I break mine while trying to fix it, though....
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:38 PM
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I'm glad to see you got the bumper fixed and got home allright. Why do you need a whole instrument cluster? Rennbay sells the odomoter gear. I'm curious to hear how your trip went, hope you are enjoying the car.
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:40 PM
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If you can pull the instrument cluster, you can swap the odo gear. Hell, if you're really freaked out about it, buy the gear and have it shipped to me, I already did the fix on the odo in my car. If you wanna do that LMK what you want the odo set to.

nate
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Old 07-25-2004, 05:49 PM
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Does this guy look familiar?

Your long lost brother....

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Old 07-25-2004, 06:12 PM
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na...your seats are in much better shape than mine, at the moment...lol. I have some pretty spiffy new seat skins, though...
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Old 07-25-2004, 07:08 PM
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Be careful when you pull on that bumper. You can bend the body where the bumper shock is mounted. When the side plastic skirts on the rear bumper are bent you have to replace them to get straight ones. You may also need to replace the bumper shock(s).

As to the rust: Not good. These cars are dipped in zinc before they are painted. Once the coating is breached and not poperly repaired you will see what you found. It's almost impossible to stop. Rust never sleeps.

You just may have bad grounds as most of your gauges don't work. Find them and clean them.

How are the bushings on the front suspension? Have you replaced the timing belt?
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Old 07-26-2004, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
As to the rust: Not good. These cars are dipped in zinc before they are painted. Once the coating is breached and not poperly repaired you will see what you found. It's almost impossible to stop. Rust never sleeps.
::being thread-jacking::

I have a small (pen tip size?) rust spot on my hood on the corner, and another real small spot (about the same size) above the passenger door (on the hood). Are you saying it's spread, under the paint, and I just don't know about it or what? I'm planning on take the car to bare metal over the winter and having it re-painted--any body shop worth their salt should be able to "properly repair" it, correct? Please tell me my rust spots aren't spreading...
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Old 07-26-2004, 09:26 AM
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YIKES!! That is NOT the way to fix the bumper!

You could have easily worked the piston into it's original position if you had removed the bumper.. without damage or compromising the pistons or the bumper..

I pity that car if thats an indicator of how problems will be addressed with it. PLEASE fix it the right way..
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Old 07-26-2004, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris_924s
YIKES!! That is NOT the way to fix the bumper!

You could have easily worked the piston into it's original position if you had removed the bumper.. without damage or compromising the pistons or the bumper..

I pity that car if thats an indicator of how problems will be addressed with it. PLEASE fix it the right way..

The right way? I've been doing this for years. You're assuming that only the strut was compressed. I'll go at this with the attitude people seem to like to give me here: How do you think the strut got compress? Someone hit it...

There was already damage to the framing of he car and the strut was in a bind. This fixed it. How was it "the wrong way"? How do you think they do this at a shop?

I'd pity th ecar over the way it's been treated in the past...there has been a LOT of body work done to this car (very poorly, too), and she needs a LOT more.

Also...10 minutes with a heatgun and the rear plastic looks new. Who ever told you you had to buy a new one because the old one was bent just wanted your money.

Also...The rust is pretty bad. It's going to be a real chore to fix it. The zinc is worn completely almost 3" all around the rusted area. I'm going to have to weld in new steel...start from scratch, almost...
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Old 07-26-2004, 03:50 PM
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Good luck Mack,
I've got your's older brother, and some spares. In fact I have a stock exhaust from the cat back, and probably an old cat. I'm movin soon so let me know if you'd like it.

Louie
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Old 07-26-2004, 04:55 PM
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I'm satisfied with that answer.. You are not trying to achieve concours-

A frame rack will do the same, true, but there are tolerances in spec it will achieve much better than on old stake truck..

Start with a rust inhibitor on the good looking areas that have been exposed as well. I agree it's gonna require welding.
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Old 07-26-2004, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Chris_924s
I'm satisfied with that answer.. You are not trying to achieve concours-

A frame rack will do the same, true, but there are tolerances in spec it will achieve much better than on old stake truck..

Start with a rust inhibitor on the good looking areas that have been exposed as well. I agree it's gonna require welding.

Yeah...but there isn't a quality frame rack within 90 miles of me...actually there isn't one at all within 90 miles of me. The careful placement of a comalong straightened out what "hitting the end of the chain" didn't achieve...but yeah, I would have rather used a rack to fix the bent steel.

I'm going to cut a straight section out of the rocker and the rear flare panel. I'm keeping it close to the edge on the rear panel so I won't have to worry much about the contour being the strewn...it won't match stock lines exactly but it'll look fairly close. The steel will be stripped down another inch off the cut-line and primed. I think this will help fight future rust.

I'm somewhat thinking of welding a 3" iconnel strap over the inner edge of the damaged panels and then welding stainless steel plating to replace the rusted-through area. The rest of the car would rot and fall away before that one section deteriorated...lol...too bad it'd be **** to paint.

....to cover damaged areas either repaired poorly or flat out wrong...

The rusted panel was repaired very very wrong.

Driver's side door hit/replaced and repainted. Paint does not match. Same with front fender.

Steel piece dividing door and roof replaced and repainted. Paint does not match, also poorly masked so there's a bright red stripe going down one side of it.

...mind just went completely blank...be back later...
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Old 07-26-2004, 06:50 PM
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