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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Texas...all of it.
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Need someone's help right quick....

Go out to your car and pop the hood. Leave the ignition off. Get into the fuse block (86+ cars) and pull the fan relay...the big silver one in the back. Then pull the A/C condensor relay. Plug the A/C condensor relay into the fan relay slot (it'll only fit one way) and tell me what happens.

Problem I'm trying to diagnose is the fans quit working on me. I think the relay might be shot...I don't have a volt meter to check it propperly, though...
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Old 07-27-2004, 03:30 PM
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Harbor Freight has them for under $10. Don't know how you can diagnose most electrical problems without one..........

The fans, like the WMD is a "slam dunk" if you can run a test lead from the battery to the motor feed. You will also have to ground the thermo switch on the radiator. If the fan doesn't run with direct connection, it is bad. That will rarely be the case.

Please get yourself a cheap volt/ohmmeter and I assume you have a Haynes manual?
\
Be a bit careful. Some of the relays are not interchangable, although most with the 4 or 5 contacts are.

On those, contacts 85 and 86 are the energizing coil.

On the four pin variety, the current carrying are 30 and 87; circult is "normally open" when the coil is NOT drawing current.

On the five pin variety, you have the option of having current pass through pins 30 and 87a when the relay is "off". If that option is not "in the circuit", a four pin is directly replacable for a five. Never the other way.

Make sense? A voltmeter, placed in the socket openings marked 86 and 85 would instantly tell you whether the relay is getting power. And, probing from either 30 or 87 to ground would tell you if the "supply" that is being switched is there. If not, the fault probably lies elsewhere.

End of "relay 101"

Hope this helps.

Hope this helps.
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Old 07-27-2004, 06:07 PM
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Uh huh....I appreciate that lesson...lol.

I have a voltmeter...it's at home...and was forgotten...I'm at work.

I said to use the A/C relay to test the one fan circut because it's specifics were the same as that half of the fan relay's...minus an extra ground which is only utilized when the dual relay setup is used.

I appreciate your response...but I would still like to know the results on other cars. On mine...regardless of whther the ignition or anything is on...the driver's side fan engages.

Also, now discovered: Fans only come on under their own power when AC is on. Other wise they stay off. I watched the temp exceed 215*f before I shut her down. Fans not running. When A/C is on temp stays where it's supposed to.
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Old 07-27-2004, 06:18 PM
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Most likely the thermo switch screwed into the radiator, 2/3 of the way down on driver's side

And, let's be fair, you didn'tsay you had a voltmeter but it wasnt available. It read like so many fellas have posted here, that they simply have not invested in one.

All I try to do is help.
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Old 07-27-2004, 06:46 PM
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ditto...and it's appreciated...which is why I took the time to explain myself a bit more.
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Old 07-27-2004, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Moneyguy1
Most likely the thermo switch screwed into the radiator, 2/3 of the way down on driver's side

I concur. It is the thermo switch more than likely. There is a great write up regarding testing and replacement on Clarks Garage.
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Old 07-28-2004, 05:36 AM
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I just learned from my new shop that there are several different cooling fan temp switches to choose from. AutoZone only had one that would turn the fan on when the temp gauge was at the 3/4 level. My mechanic replaced it for me with a switch that will cut the fan on at 1/2 way. Watch for that when replacing the switch.
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Old 07-28-2004, 06:20 AM
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where do you find these? I have had mine replaced twice and it still doesn't cut in until the temp gauge is near or at the top hash mark. Makes me nervous in traffic, it does. I know that there's no other fault with the cooling system as it's all new and appears to be working.

nate
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Old 07-28-2004, 06:26 AM
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