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bull4u2me's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SouthCarolina
Posts: 124
Lightbulb headlamp replacement

Can anyone tell me how I could replace the front headlamps, coz mine cracked a week ago and has a very nice water level in it.

Did you know that you could buy Osram 7inch H6024?? Halogen headlamps with the halogen bulb for 9 bucks at walmart? Just blew my mind!

Although I did buy one of those "H4" kits from ebay, im gonna still use my old bulbs in them, dont want anything to do with those tinted duds.
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Old 08-03-2004, 05:44 AM
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the best thing you can do without changing the wiring is buy a Hella H4 lens, and then upgrade the bulbs as well... i noticed an improvement when I installed the new lenses (and the bulbs they came with) over stock, but the "stock" H4 bulbs are still a bit yellow. I picked up a pair of Sylvania white bulbs and the difference is incredible. They are completely white, with almost no yellow (and definitely no blue) hue.
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Old 08-03-2004, 06:10 AM
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You can go all sorts of ways on headlights and bulbs but this is one area that you get what you pay for. Here is a Rennlist thread showing the difference when you go balls to the wall on halogen. You can stand up to and even beat HID arc lamps.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/showthread.php?t=134230&highlight=IceShark+headlights

Short of that get some good E-Code lenses as the base. As Hella was mentioned, they make several types in 7" round but I wouldn't use any other than the Hella Super which is rather hard to find in North America. Expect to pay around $140 for a pair at street price. Cibie is probably the best choice as they are cheaper (~ $110 a pair) and have a great beam pattern. Cibie and the Hella Supers are a toss up as far as beam performance but I have reports that the Hella Supers may fail from heat when running overwatted bulbs (the lens delaminates from the reflector). Which is why I use Cibie in my packages. There are an awful lot of Cibie lenses I sold out there operating under real world conditions and no delamination problems running 90/100 watt H4s that are getting 14+ volts to the bulb.

As far as H4 bulbs go, stick with the major manufacturers in non-blue tinted bulbs. The blue tint acts as a filter and cuts down on light output. Philips/Narva or Osram/Sylvania. You will see mention about all the "boosted" bulbs. When you are dealing with legal 55/60 watt H4 bulbs you are subject to federal statutes regarding light output. 1000 lumens for a halogen bulb +/- 15%. The 30% boosted bulbs use better technology in gas mix and manufacturing quality to produce a bulb that is at the top legal range of 1150 lumens. Poor bulbs may be down at the lower end of 850. Now you see where the "up to" 30% boosted comes from. The 50% boosted use the same technology as the 30% but wind the filament a bit different and steal light from the edges and place it in the central hot spot. They still put out 1150 lumens, just in different places. So you will see further down the road in the center but not quite as well off to the side. Around 40 your eyes start changing in the ability to open the pupil wide and let in more light. So, if you are under 40 the 50% boosted may be good for your needs but if you are over 40 you want the greater sidelight that the 30% give you.

Then we come to wiring. You really need to do this if you want more light as the stock wiring is a real POS. Halogen light output varies at around the 3.4th power to voltage changes. Drop 15% in voltage and you just lost 50% in light output. Or, conversely, you can increase light 100% if you can raise voltage by 15%. I've had customers test the before and after voltage at the bulbs when installing my headlight harness. 425 to 450% increase in light output in switching to 90/100 H4s driven at the higher delivered voltage is sort of typical. You need to do something about wiring because you leave too much on the table if you don't.
Old 08-04-2004, 01:19 AM
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