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Rear Torsion Bar Adjustment

Whats involved with adjusting the rear torsion bars to get a little more ride height? Is it pretty simple and whats kinda tools and time is required.
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Old 08-05-2004, 09:45 AM
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Here is a semi-easy way to adjust the rear ride height. However, most cars are already riding kinda high. This will only give you about a 1-1.5 inch adjustment.

http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index.php?page=index_v2&id=62&c=4

"Adjusting rear Torsion bars" and "easy" do not belong in the same sentence. Re-indexing the rear torsion bars is about the most complex procedure you can do on a 944.

http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index.php?page=index_v2&id=66&c=4

JM
Old 08-05-2004, 11:12 AM
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im scared
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Traded - 86 944 Turbo Guards Red. RIP - 85.5 944 Guards Red
Old 08-05-2004, 02:21 PM
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Do you need torsion bars if you change over to a coil-over setup? I've always wondered...
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Old 08-05-2004, 03:05 PM
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I have coil overs and torsion bars. Personally I think you need torsion bars because I don't think the car was designed to take the whole rear weight on the shocks mounting. I am using only a small amount of spring rate 90lp in the coilover, enough to compensate for the extra rate I have added at the front. If I had a choice I would have gone for the correct torsion bar and indexing, but we know this will be a tough job. Saying this you still need to index the torsion bar if you want to lower the car and use coil over. However only rotating the bar by one click(equivalent to almost 2 inch ride height) can be done without removing the torsion bars, by just droping the rear suspension low enough to allow the bar to be loosened from the inner splines and rotate them by one click.
Old 08-05-2004, 03:42 PM
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um... after reading this, i think the chances of me getting those high performance torsion bars has dropped very close to zero.

what i don't understand is, why do you have to undo the brake lines in order to replace the torsion bars?
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Old 08-06-2004, 07:47 AM
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I don't remember removing hydraulic brake lines, but you will have to move/remove the emergency brake lines, because they are attached to the torque tube.

If you plan on dropping the entire torque tube out from under the car, no need to cut holes in the side sheet metal. Many racers cut the holes, (ala 911) to make it easier to re-index at the track.

Just like the timing belts...the hardest part is mental. Making sure you do it right the first time.

JM
Old 08-06-2004, 12:11 PM
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i think i'll wait til i have to replace the clutch, then i'll do the torsion bars at the same time. seems that timing belts are a piece of cake compared to doing the torsion bars.... i've done the belts -twice- and it was not nearly so involved.
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Old 08-06-2004, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Makis
However only rotating the bar by one click(equivalent to almost 2 inch ride height) can be done without removing the torsion bars, by just droping the rear suspension low enough to allow the bar to be loosened from the inner splines and rotate them by one click.
how would i go about doing this?
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:54 AM
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There is no simple, easy, one afternoon process to re-index the torsion bars.

The outer splines are housed in the spring plate, which is held by the torsion tube chassis mount. The spring plate is attached to the trailing arm, which is attached to the stub axles and the shocks....ALL of which must be loosened and/or removed to get to the torsion bar. Don't bend or break the brake lines either.

Now...once you get all that done, moving the torsion bar one inner spline is not easy. You have to mark the outer housing/spring plate before you remove it from the torsion bar.

When you pull the spring plate away from the torsion bar, there is no assurance the bar will stay seated to the inner splines.

There is no reference mark...both ends of the torsion bar can be moved..HEADACHE TIME.

The best write up can be found at Clarks Garage.

JM
Old 11-18-2004, 12:06 PM
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A very old post I know. But I found it while searching for hints before starting the job.
I have never reindexed torsion bars before, however I found it to be quite easy. I am not a mechanic, only self-learned enthusiast who have worked on different project cars for some years.

I used one sunday on the job. I do have a car-lift in my garage, which makes things a lot faster/easier of course.

But I will claim the task is more time consuming than difficult. I changed to bigger torsion bars and installed polybronze bushings, and that's why I had to reindex. Moving both inner and outher splines around was easy, the important thing is to mark along the banana arm where the spring plate lines up before starting to change things around. Then just use that as a reference mark, and keep moving splines around untill you get it to line up where you want relative to the reference mark. Use a degree-gauge to dial in the alteration, and calculate that alteration with the aid of the nifty calculator found here: Upgrade Your 944 Torsion Bar
Old 01-24-2012, 05:39 AM
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Fully agree with the above.
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Old 01-24-2012, 08:00 AM
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