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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Fairhaven, Ma
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Porsche Crest Help my car is dead!!!!!!!

I am the starter just clicks guy. I have now put a new battery, new starter, and a rebuild alternator in my early 85 944. Yet, the car still is making a clicking sound and nothing else is happening. All other electrical components are working. The car had been sitting for many years and I have just finished installing a new clutch. Does any know what could be wrong? I've looked all over and cant see any bad grounds, but maybe I'm missing it. None of the wires seem corroded. Any help would great I am out of ideas.

Last edited by qawse; 08-24-2004 at 05:15 PM..
Old 08-24-2004, 05:12 PM
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Just because they look good, dosen't mean a thing. Coming off of the firewall to the block is a ground strap. Take it off and clean both ends up. Don't just wipe them off, take some sand paper or a file and make them shine. Also, the ground from the battery to the fire wall, same thing. Beside the ground on the block going to the firewall, is another ground with heavy guage brown wire, same thing. Check the cable from the starter to the alternator.
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Old 08-24-2004, 05:34 PM
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You have bad electrical connections. If you have an after market battery connector (that just clamps on the large cable) on the positive and/or ground cable replace it with a soldered in place cable.
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Old 08-24-2004, 07:04 PM
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the ground from the firewall to the block is only attached to the firewall, where does it attach to the block?
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Old 08-25-2004, 04:28 PM
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i chose to ground my engine to fire wall off the last bolt of the intake manifold, one which the DME harness is attached too. works well. connect it there and you should have a start. unless you dont have a ground from the NEGATIVE side of the battery to the fire wall
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Old 08-25-2004, 05:04 PM
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Not good to leave the grounds off of the engine. This makes the grounds go through the DME. This causes the PC board traces to burn through like fuses.
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Old 08-25-2004, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by qawse
the ground from the firewall to the block is only attached to the firewall, where does it attach to the block?
that would be a start

It's somewhere on the back of the block. It should have some slack in the ground wire, so it can only be a small area that it attaches to.
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Old 08-25-2004, 09:03 PM
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Ok, this may be a stupid question, but....... Is the engine free to rotate, i.e. not seized? If it hasn't been run in years, something might be frozen. Put a socket on the crankshaft bolt and give it a spin with a breaker bar.
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Old 08-26-2004, 09:05 AM
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I did that, when installing the clutch. The car is not siezed. I was using a multimeter and notice some resistence on the ignition switch wire as it went into the firwall. Upon further inspection I used the ohm test and got a 1 when I tested the ignition switch right where the key goes. Could this be the problem? Am I missing any places that are related?
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Last edited by qawse; 08-26-2004 at 09:32 AM..
Old 08-26-2004, 09:30 AM
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Whoops, Just read your other post. I guess you tried that already.

Sounds like you're on to something with the resistance here. Does the starter make a weak sounding "click" or is it a more powerfull clunk. If it's weak, you're definitely on the right path.

Try this. Set your meter on voltage, and put 1 test lead on the POSITIVE terminal of the battery, and the other lead onto the terminal on the starter motor where the thin wire is attached. Look at the meter while someone holds the key in the cranking position. You should not see more than about 0.5V up to maybe 1 volt max. Anything more, and it's definitely a bad connection, or bad switch in the circuit. Make sure you have a good connection on the test leads though, or this could give phoney readings.

If everything checks out ok, do the same with the ground side. 1 test lead onto the negative side of the battery, and the other one onto the starter housing

What you are actually testing here is the voltage drop across the circuits. Most electrical circuits in a car (unless they have a resistor, or motor, or light bulb in-line) should have a low voltage drop when energized. The more voltage "absorbed" by the circuit, the less there is left to apply to the device that really needs the power, in this case, the starter solenoid. This is kind of the same thing you are doing by testing resistance, but in this case you're testing it under load.
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Old 08-26-2004, 10:23 AM
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The car makes a loud click, I can hear it from inside the car. I tested the ignition as you said, but I was a littles confused by your instructioin, so I tested the connection a little differently. I put the positive tester on the ignition cable and grounded the negative on the housing. The voltage reading I got was .26. I got this reading at the solenoid and also at another point on the wire, where there was a connector (around the master cylinder). Does this mean I have good connection, that the ignition switch is not the problem? What else could it be?
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Old 08-26-2004, 12:36 PM
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The first question is what is making the click? Is it the starter or a relay? You hear it from inside the car...have you listened to the actual starter when you turn the key. My bet is that you are hearing a relay that does not mean that the starter is getting power.

As for your test. What did you have the meter set on?

IF you were measuring DC Voltage (the V with strait bars over it) then you do not have power at the starter. One of the connections on the starter should have 12V all the time. The other should have 12V only when the key is in the start position.

IF you were measuring resistance (the Greek omega symbol) then you have a short to ground. That could be ok if the key is not in the start position and you are measuring the one connection to the starter. With the key in the start position you should not have a short to ground.

You need to tell us the units that you measure. i.e. Volts (V), Amps (A), Ohms (Greek omega symbol). This would help and should be displayed next to the reading on the meter.
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Old 08-26-2004, 02:56 PM
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