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krahm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
Posts: 58
Belt job probs (16V)

Well, I finally got the belts, rollers, seals done, but something was whining. I figured I needed to loosen the balance belt a little, but when I went back in, I saw a lot of wear on the timing belt--after about maybe 50 miles of driving. Quite a bit of clag from the new belt building up inside the plastic belt covers. I'm going to re-check the tension to see if that was the problem, but I'm wondering:

How hard should it be to turn the camshaft sprocket on this engine? I had to adjust it a degree or two to fit the belt, but I couldn't even budge it by hand. Had to use a wrench.

I'll check to see if the belt is scraping anywhere, but the flat side is looking very worn already. I suppose that if the tension is too loose, the belt could be slipping on the water pump. A lot of the "dust" is collecting in that general area.

By the way, yes, I'm going to change the belt (again), but I'd like to figure out what the problem is first. Many thanks for any insight/advice.

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Old 09-13-2004, 08:31 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
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Is the car running hot? If the belt is slipping over the water pump, the water pump won't be running correctly.
As for turning the motor over, you SHOULD need a wrench. Remember, if you still have the plugs in you're working against the compression of the engine.
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In the stable: 1938 Buick Special model 41, 1963 Solex 2200, 1973 Vespa Primavera 125, 1974 Vespa Rally 200, 1986 VW Vanagon Syncro Westfalia, 1989 VW Doka Tristar, 2011 Pursuit 315 OS, 2022 Tesla Y
Gone but not forgotten: 1973 VW Beetle, 1989 Porsche 944, 2008 R56 Mini Cooper S
Old 09-13-2004, 08:48 AM
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He was using the wrench on the camshaft sprocket not the crank so compression shouldn't be an issue. I could move mine pretty easy if I remember correctly.
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Old 09-13-2004, 06:12 PM
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I had to turn my cam sprocket with a wrench. I figured it was the valve springs giving resistance.
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Old 09-14-2004, 03:34 AM
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You can turn the engine over using the cam shaft. Always turn it counter clock wise. It's easier to turn the engine over with out the plugs in and yes there is a bit of resistance from the valve springs.

I strongly suggest that all engine turning be done off of the crank pulley bolt.

As to belt wear: As stated previously serious wear on the back side of the belt is from the water pump. This could be seizing up. If you have wear on the sides of the belt then you have put a toothed tension pulley or guide flange on wrong.
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When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
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Last edited by SoCal Driver; 09-14-2004 at 07:09 AM..
Old 09-14-2004, 07:06 AM
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Yes, I was talking about turning the cam pulley (slightly) without the belt attached so that I could match up the pulley teeth with the belt ribs. I knew the valves weren't hitting the pistons, so I was surprised that I couldn't turn it by hand. Maybe it's just the resistance from the valve springs, like someone said.

The belt wear is definitely on the back side. The water pump replaced (rebuilt) with the belt, but that doesn't mean much I guess. I'll check it out. Thanks for the input.

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Old 09-15-2004, 08:27 PM
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