Rebuilt engine is clicking....
 

hey guys, well, engine has been rebuilt in the course of 6 months. Just started it today (nervous as hell) and the first thing i noticed was a loud, fast, continuous clicking.....
i've read the posts and hopefully its the valve lifters, and i've read about the ATF/sludge removal procedures, but during the rebuild, we cleaned up everything.....(i think)
assuming it's the valve lifters, what else can i do to get them lubricated?

thanks guys, my first time owning and working on a p-car, so be patient with me
:D

hmmm.......... I just noticed this on my car. I don't kknow if it's the lifters or something electronic????? Sorry, but I don't know, I'm hoping someone can answer for the both of us

The continuous fast clicking is more likely your injectors. If it were the lifters it would be a hard LOUD click.

Rick

It's probably injectors... the injectors in our cars are pretty loud.

Re: Rebuilt engine is clicking....
 

It's the fillers filling up. You need to drive it at various loads and speeds to sort it out.

I have a proper starting up/running in procedure somewhere.
If you want I can post it

HTH

Ade

Unplug the cruise controller.

So the AFS does have to be plugged in. How about that.

actually the noise is definitely loud.....adriane, would you be so kind as to post the proper way to go about the lifters? It would help alot......
again thanks guys..........SmileWavy

inclined to think it's the lifters. injector ticking isn't that loud, and it's a sound with which you should already be familiar. did the noise appear to dissipate as the engine got warmer? or were you too afraid to find out? ;) you need to run it for at least 20 minutes for the noise to go away (or the engine to seize :D) remember, the lifters have no oil after the rebuild. that should be it...

unless of course, you put the cam box gasket on 180 degr. off... :eek: this would cut off oil suppply to the cam and lifters, causing things to start squeaking and slowly grinding to an ugly halt. take any of the aluminum plugs off the top of the cam box and see if there is evidence of that shiny substance known to Man as motor oil

The noise should disappear after 20-30 minutes of normal driving. Once engine oil has reached operating temperature it should fill up the lifters and the lifters should start to work properly. If not and the noise is still there after 20-30minutes of normal driving you should start to worry. Oil may not be reaching the lifters which can be caused by poor oill pressure or blocked oil passages.

You may not have oil pressure. Did you hook up the oil pressure sender and prime the oil galley before you fired it up?

If you don't have the front crank bolt tightened properly the oil pump behind it will not work.

In this age of mod cons can anyone post a mp3 or something of these noises!

Ditto on the lifters..Thats why I always prime hydraulic lifters manually when rebuilding or replacing them..Hopefully these guys are correct and they just havent pumped up yet..As recommended above,you should confirm oil pressure before anything..Good luck.

he has that right...you are really supposed to crank the motor over when freshly rebuilt, and keep cranking it until you see oil flowing into the head. THEN start the car. Mitsus have separate cogs for the oil pump, so I used to spin it with a drill until it primed the motor, then put the timing belt on.


Starting the car with no priming causing bearings to ride metal on metal...it will shorten the life significantly..

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Stuck lifters..................
Submitted by Jon Mitchell


If you have a stuck lifter, a sticky ring, or chronic problems with black death (oil sludge) there is a very good way to sort it out, which works in most cases, and has been used on my 944 twice in its long life (220,000 miles on the original engine without a rebuild), once when I first got her when the lifters were chattering through it not having enough oil changes, and once about 30,000 miles ago when I got back to the country and she had been standing for 2 years since my previous journey in her! So it will not hurt the engine at all..

What you do is mix cheap and nasty 20-50 oil from a super market, in a ratio
of 50-50 with diesel.

Drain your engine oil, give the engine a fresh filter, fill her up with this
recipe, start her up... while the engine warms up, follow a cycle of letting
it idle for 5 mins, then lifting the engine speed to 2000 rpm for 5 mins..
do not drive the car during this.. keep an eye on the oil pressure, and time
how long it takes for the radiator fan to come on.... after the radiator fan
has turned off, keep cycling the revs as mentioned for just as long as it
took from starting the engine until the fan came on and shut off (you can do
it longer than this if you want..

Once you have done this, drain the oil mix (leave it draining for an hour or
so), change the oil filter and give fresh good quality oil, something like
15w50 mobil, and take her for a carefull drive... in 9 out of 10 times, this
will cure the problem unless you have a completely knackered lifter.

Its a bit like a mega engine flush on steroids to keep in the arsonal as a
"if all else fails" idea.

It scares the hell out of most people... but you need to remember, diesel is oil, just a very thin oil, so it thins down the 20-50 oil so it can creap into clogged parts or defeat air locks within deflated lifters. Also diesel contains deturgents, which help the process of moving sludge.. the only reason we use 20-50 is that it is cheap, sufficient and gives about the correct thickness when thinned with the diesel.

Jon Mitchell
Independent Porsche Specialists
Bournemouth, UK

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Noisy Lifters..................

1 As soon as the engine fires up, bring the RPM to between 2000 and 2500
RPM and hold it there for the next couple of steps.

2 Monitor the engine on a 4 gas analyser and an ignition scope, make
alterations to the fuelling and ignition the whole time its running.

3. run the engine like this for 15 mins

4. Drain the oil, replace with fresh mineral oil

5. take the car out for a 20 to 30 mile journey of varied duty cycle. in
other words a mix of duel carriageway and urban, with minimum idling, and
regular use of acceleration, never exceeding 75% of the maximum engine RPM,
but using full throttle when possible.

6. drain oil and replace with more mineral oil

7. Hand car over to customer for 1500 miles, with the instructions of
never exceeding 75% of the maximum engine RPM

8. change oil for fully synthetic and tell the customer to drive it as
they please.

sounds like i'll have my hands full tomorrow;)
hope this works.....:D

cc
 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by SoCal Driver
[B]Unplug the cruise controller.

So cal - just read this earlier post about lifter noise - How does unplugging the cruise control affect the lifter noise?

Sometimes when the cruise control brain fails, it cycles the servo very fast causing a "clicking" sound that sounds like it's coming from the engine. It's very annoying, and very disturbing when you don't know what it is. Disconnecting the servo rules this out for the noise diagnosis.

So is it a constant clicking noise or intermittant?

it was a constant clicking, the valve lifters.....i let it idle for about 15-25 minutes and the sound went away, obviously the lifters got lubricated.....