No, I really don't have what you need on pictures as the harnes is installed. There are bit and pieces up on the web. If you have a NA you can probably do in 3 to 6 hours, depending on how good you are and beer breaks.

I include a spare takeoff power pigtail in the wiring harness for powering the other forward lights like fog and driving. Sometimes I sell the fixings to do that wiring job for people, but I don't have a plug and play solution. Not enough demand.

But if you do the wiring on everything you will look like a 747 landing on the highway. ;)

The fogs aren't working most likely due to one or more of the following: fog-light switch, fuse, relay, bulbs...

hrm...i'll check the connections again. The rear fog light works, but not the fronts lol. My bumper is a mess and its kinda hard to get the fog lights out

If you have a rear fog in a North American market car, you have a strange beast. How are your rear tail lights layed out for running, brake and fog cells?

My guess is you don't have an original ROW car and someone rewired the fogs to get the rear working. That is where you start - messed up wiring job.

Besides the fuse, you do have a fog relay in the fuse/relay box. Check that out and it is pretty cheap to replace. Then find out if you are getting voltage at the fuse/relay box down to the front fogs. That will narrow down your search.

I have an euro model car. VIN says so. Outside lights are the brakes, second ones in are the parking lights, and the driverside inner one is foglight. The passenger side one is blank.

I do have a relay, and it clicks everytime I turn the fogs on.

My car had recieved some nose damage in the front and was replaced with an american front, which means I got jipped on my fenders and my front bumper :mad: . I replaced the stock bumper the other day and I noticed some damaged that hadnt been repaired (the driverside bracket that the lower valence bolts to was bent over, which is why my lower valence is all out of wack. Im getting the Performance Products 951 nose to clean it up)

Ooooh, That rear light arrangement is a ROW car for sure. Sometimes the other inner dual cell also gets lit up for fog conditions. Anyway, you have the real deal ROW lighting scheme. You can change this around if you want. It is nice to have the inner cells function as brake lights as they are the biggest and brightest back there. Then change the outer ones to the running lights as they are furthest outboard. Light up the lower center with a bright bulb for fog or another running light, brake light, whatever.

Usually most cars are missing some of the cells being lit up and I did a lighting project for people around the world to replace bulbs and provide sockets and wiring to light up the dead cells. If you go over to Rennlist and search you can read over the various opinions on what people thought was the best to do for their area. This happened a couple years ago.

Since you have had damage up front that is where I would start. The wires may not be cut in half but damaged and the following corrosion took care of the rest of it.