Pelican Parts
Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   Pelican Parts Forums > Porsche Forums > Porsche 924/944/968 Technical Forum


Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread
Author
Thread Post New Thread    Reply
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: www.fakelife.com
Posts: 1,673
Send a message via AIM to SlowToady
Quick Q on removing rear brake rotor

I'm taking the rear rotors off to get them cut, but am having a bit of trouble. I have the Haynes manual at my side but it isn't helping too much. It says to remove the counter sunk screws that hold the rotor (I did), use a large screw driver to contract e-brake shoes (did that, too, do you pull the spring up or down?), and it should just slip right off. Except that it doesn't. I know you can put a few bolts in the holes and turn em' a lil' to push the rotor but I don't want to do that yet in case I've missed something. Is there something I didn't do, or did wrong? I know I'm an idiot, but rotors usually aren't too hard to remove

Anyone have any ideas? What size/bolt pattern bolts do you use in those holes to push the rotor off?

Thanks
__________________
I turn away with fear and horror from this lamentable sore of continuous functions without derivatives. --Charles Hermite

Fakelife.com Nothing to do with archery anymore. Porsche/BMW/Ferrari/Honda videos
Old 03-19-2005, 02:14 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #1 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Tioga Co.
Posts: 5,944
Sounds like you've got it. I had to drill 2 of my screws. I used a rubber mallet rather than bolts.
__________________
'86na, 5-spd, turbo front brakes, bad paint, poor turbo nose bolt-on, early sunroof switch set-up that doesn't work.

Malo periculosam, libertatem quam quietam servitutem.
Old 03-19-2005, 03:41 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #2 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Brighton UK since 11/2012
Posts: 3,170
Unless they are grooved, scored or warped I wouldn't bother turning them. If they are worn you need new ones. If there is a lip on the outer edge that can be ground off at home with a grinder...it doesn't affect brake effeciency as the pads don't face on that section anyway.

To remove, undo the parking brake adjuster and the disc may come off with some help (or a hammer at it is know as..which means you will need new discs)

The threads for the removal bolts is M8
__________________
From November 2012; Precision Porsche Specialist
Sussex UK, +44 (0)1825-721-205
2001-2012 Gerber Motorsport Inc. 206-352-6911
07.15.06 1996 Ducati 900SP. Suprisingly enough, it's red
08.16.09 1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100. Green.
Old 03-19-2005, 06:55 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #3 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: www.fakelife.com
Posts: 1,673
Send a message via AIM to SlowToady
Thanks for the quick replies. I made two more trips to Home Depot after I posted this thread to get the bolts (which I found out after trial and error are M8). I thought it wasn't going to work because I had them in there pretty good and no dice, but I turned em' a bit more and heard a popping sound and gave it a whack with a mallet. Another small turn or two and another whack and the rotor came right off. The hub and rotor are all corroded, which would explain why it was so hard to get off.

I took the front and rear rotors to Sears to get them cut, having left the hub on the front rotor* and the "mechanic" almost had a heart attack on me. Started talking something about how he won't touch them, and he has no idea how to get the hub off "and from the looks of things, you [me] don't either". Holy **** man, it's only 5 bolts....I took my discs and left.

*I left the hub on because I didn't want to loose the position (yea I coulda marked it) but I honestly didn't think it would be a big deal for a mechanic to remove the hub from the rotor...Guess I was mistaken.
__________________
I turn away with fear and horror from this lamentable sore of continuous functions without derivatives. --Charles Hermite

Fakelife.com Nothing to do with archery anymore. Porsche/BMW/Ferrari/Honda videos
Old 03-20-2005, 06:35 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #4 (permalink)
Registered User
 
Zero10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 1,883
Send a message via ICQ to Zero10
I usually pull the caliper, and the 2 screws, then turn the rotor, and give it a bit of a smack from the back with a plastic mallet. It eventually pops off. I never touch the E-brake unless I'm adjusting it out. In it's relaxed position, the rotor/drum should slide right over it. Unless it's very badly grooved, but even then, it should slide partway off.

Don't forget the anti-sieze on the threads of the little screws. Otherwise they may be rather difficult to get off if you ever need to pull them again.
__________________
2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring, GLS 5 speed, Indigo Blue Metallic. 2.0L of Korean fury!

Buy my parts!
Old 03-20-2005, 06:53 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #5 (permalink)
Reply

Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

 


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 01:08 AM.


 
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page
 

DTO Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.