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Angry 944 Blinker Problems

hey im brand new to this forum, i thought who else would know about 944's more then fellow 944 owners

well heres my problem, i have a 1984 944 N/A, and the blinkers dont work, at first i thought it was the bulbs, but the hazards still work so it cant be that, when i press the blinker level up or down the green indicator light 7 out of 10 times just stays on and no lights come on, this is a pain as i keep getting fix it tickets for it but i dont know how to fix it, id rather not pay a shop to do this as i am an abid tuner and need to save up the money for some performance parts, and im also a die hard DIY-er, so if anyone can help out it would be awesome. thanks
Old 03-27-2005, 09:28 AM
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First off I would try a new blinker relay. Get an electronic one, it is only around 10 bucks. I'm not exactly sure how the internals of that are wired but the turnsignal and emergency flasher seem to be on seperate circuits. I have had the turnsignal fail but 4 way flashers still work.

Then it the turnsignal switch which isn't quite so cheap.
Old 03-27-2005, 09:51 AM
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When replacing the blinker relay doesn't do it you will have to replace the arm assembly on the column. Not that daughting but there is a couple of "tricks" to it.

Check out www.clarks-garage.com for info.
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Old 03-27-2005, 10:25 AM
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I'd have to say relay. However, if SoCal is right (which is possible cause he knows his stuff) the assembly isn't hard to take off. I had to when I replaced my ignition switch.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:38 PM
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I have had that relay apart, and I've never seen seperate circuits inside it.
It's only a 3 wire blinker.

I'd put my money on the switch, or perhaps the wiring between the switch and the relay.
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Old 03-27-2005, 01:57 PM
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On my '87, if 1 bulb is out, the gauge indicator light stays on, unblinking, and the turn signal will light solid, again not blinking. If you have verified every bulb (front, front side, back side and back) all work and have replaced the relay then its time to tackle the arm assemly per So Cal's post.
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Old 03-27-2005, 05:56 PM
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Go back to Ice's post and think about the two different relays. One is a resistance triggered relay in that when a bulb goes out it will slowly cycle or not cycle. The electronic timed one will cycle. This is good and bad. When it doesn't cycle you know you have a bulb out. Did this to me last week. Replaced the bulb.

If you put brighter bulbs in the resistance will cycle faster. The electronic timed one will not.
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Old 03-28-2005, 06:22 AM
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livewire,

Your sidemarkers will not blink unless you did the rewire I promoted in the exterior light bulb project. So those little bulbs burning out won't be a blinker problem for most people. Besides, they are only 5 watt and that shouldn't be enough load reduction to cause a change. A standard turnsignal bulb is 21 watts.

It is a nice safety modification so people flanking you who can't see the turnsignal lenses know you are about to do something. And it looks cool, too.

As a public service here is the writeup I did:


To obtain sidemarkers that will blink with the turn signals yet still act as constant burning sidemarker/running lights when the turn signals are not engaged is quite simple.

Just rewire the sidemarker ground (brown wire) from the stock grounding configuration over to the positive feed for the turn signal in that corner of the car. In the rear this is very easy to do as all the wires are sitting open in one place on the bulb backplate of the rear lens.

The forward turn signals can be a bit more of a challenge. Because the forward signal bulb is a dual filament running light and turn signal you must ascertain which of the positive feeds is for the turn signal filament. You can do this with a voltmeter or test light. The next step can be a challenge if you do not wish to cut the stock OEM wiring and splice. The reason it is a challenge is that many of the forward bulb sockets had the terminals to the socket riveted together and the working space is quite cramped. Probably the easiest approach is to gently pull the bulb socket free, run a wire through the back of the housing, wrap the wire around the riveted socket terminal and solder it together. In this fashion you donít have to drill out the rivet and the change can be reversed to OEM by just heating the terminal and pulling the solder joint free.

With this simple change the side markers function as per normal until you engage the turn signal. If lights are on, when the turn signal is engaged (i.e. flashes) it interrupts the marker ground and makes it flash in alternate to the main turn signal. If lights are off, things are reversed and the sidemarkers flash in synchronization with the main signals.

Simple, cheap and no need to buy any other gizmos. Well, that may not be exactly true. If your flasher relay is old and on its last legs it will probably fail with the extra 20 watt load of 4 sidemarkers and you will have to spend 10 bucks to get a new fresh one. That is what happened to me anyway. A good standard electronic relay will take the extra 20 watts just fine and there is no need to step up to a heavy duty flasher relay.
Old 03-28-2005, 06:46 AM
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Side Markers Blinking With Turnsignals

Hello Good People,

I tried this and it simply continued to blow the fuse to either the side marker, and sometimes the side marker and the rear turn signal. Could I have connected something wrong?

Side marker:
Positive wire(gray) untouched.
Negative wire(brown) connects to positive feed on rear blinker light(amber).

I went up to a 15amp fuse and it still blew out.
Any tips would be much appreciated.

T.I.A.

R.I.P. dear brother IceShark...
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Old 08-10-2010, 04:03 PM
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I bet the relay got hot too. That's what happens when the wires are hooked up in the wrong order and the ground isn't operating properly. If you are lucky it will smoke too.
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Old 08-10-2010, 05:47 PM
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Do you know of the proper way to meet the objective of getting the side markers to blink?
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:06 PM
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