No Start and Leaking Slave Cylinder

Goo · 04-29-2005, 04:57 PM

Ok, got a problem with the 944 that the search function cannot easily find for me so I'll post it here in hopes of having the light of knowledge shined ever so brightly upon the problem...lacking the light of knowledge I'll take the candle of opinion...

Push the brakes in and I hear the woosh of air (air in the system), it gets worse when I press in the clutch pedal. Figure that the clutch slave cylinder needs to be bled as well as the brakes(?).

Unfortunately now the car decided that it is not in the mood to start. Car in neutral, clutch and brake off and the car will not start - though I'd been able to easily start it like that before. Then I try it with the clutch pedal engaged, and it is even worse, it is like there is a greater load on the car.

I feel that this is not coincidence, that the leaking slave cylinder (if that is what it really is) is also contributing to the car not starting since there was never any trouble with it before.

Any ideas, thoughts?

Thanks

Keith

drew1 · 04-30-2005, 09:04 AM

Don't think the slave cylinder has anything to do with the car not starting.

earlr85944 · 04-30-2005, 09:31 AM

Hi Keith I dont have a candle but I have a book of matches....
If you need any parts to diagnose the no start problem let me know, i have a few dme's and relays sitting around which you can borrow.
with the clutch engaged you would be trying to move the car with the starter, it probably wont go too far, though I have seen them make it through a 7-11 strorefront). tackle the hydraulic problem first.

Goo · 04-30-2005, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by drew1
Don't think the slave cylinder has anything to do with the car not starting.

Yeah, the more I thought about it the more that possibility seemed to be...well...stupid.

Once it stops raining here I am going to go out and check spark and all that fun stuff.

Quote:

Hi Keith I dont have a candle but I have a book of matches....
If you need any parts to diagnose the no start problem let me know, i have a few dme's and relays sitting around which you can borrow.
with the clutch engaged you would be trying to move the car with the starter, it probably wont go too far, though I have seen them make it through a 7-11 strorefront). tackle the hydraulic problem first.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

There is so little current getting through that the starter barely moves the car - thought that popping the clutch would/might get it started.

I am going to charge up the battery and check spark, maybe take a look at the belts since the battery has been slowly going away and think it might be the alternator but as I am reading on here there are a bunch of possibilties.

Has anyone had any experience with the hot start product offfered by Pelican to bypass the ignition system?

Thanks.

Keith

SoCal Driver · SoCal Driver's Garage

Should not need any additional devices to get the car started. As long as the battery cables and grounds are clean and in good condition as well as the battery, it should crank briskly.

If there is no spark check for battery voltage at the coil with the key on. Should also be battery voltage at one of the two injector electrical pins.

If there is no voltage at the coil it's a bad ingition switch. If there is no voltage at the injector but at the coil it's a bad DME relay first then referenec sensor second.

Goo · 04-30-2005, 05:39 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by SoCal Driver
Should not need any additional devices to get the car started. As long as the battery cables and grounds are clean and in good condition as well as the battery, it should crank briskly.

If there is no spark check for battery voltage at the coil with the key on. Should also be battery voltage at one of the two injector electrical pins.

If there is no voltage at the coil it's a bad ingition switch. If there is no voltage at the injector but at the coil it's a bad DME relay first then referenec sensor second.

Talked with the PO tonight, he said that the DME relay had given him trouble so he re-soldered it (I'll buy another one ASAP) and suggested that the battery is probably the culprit. I've got the battery on the charger for a long soak and will re-install it in the morning then get to the diagnosing of the problem.

Cables and grounds are in good condition at the battery, I'll start following other grounds to see if they are in the same good shape. The PO was an electrical nut and went through the whole car but I'll check it out myself to see if there is anything amiss.

Tomorrow the diagnosing begins! Thanks all for the help and assistance.

Keith

Goo · 05-01-2005, 06:46 AM

Went out this morning after letting the battery sit on the trickle charger overnight and nothing, if anything, it was almost worse than when I'd placed it on the charger.

First step is to get a new battery...

...then the diagnosing can commence.

Will update later.

Keith

Goo · 05-02-2005, 06:41 PM

There seems to be a little electrical daemon running around through the intricate web and weave of wire that I am going to have to trace down since this bugger has a grand thirst for Amps. Ahhhhh, and to think, I thought that I'd left this all behind when I stopped working on Triumphs and dealing with the Prince of Darkness, obviously, he has a Teutonic relative, the Burgermeister auf Dunkle (BaD?).

Keith

earlr85944 · 05-02-2005, 07:15 PM

just a thought, apply 12v to the starter solenoid, and see if the starter kicks in good. make sure the clutch is not engaged and that you are safe in case the car moves, otherwise Goo can get Gooey.

i have seen a few of these car that have problems with the ignition sw or wire to the solenoid that doesnt give correct voltage to the starter solenoid and make it seem that the battery is dead\not enough juice but in fact the solenoid doesnt fully engage.....

Goo · 05-03-2005, 04:03 AM

I've already been run over - albeit by a van weilding retiree and his earstwhile mumu enshrouded beast of a wife...and almost always, except when unavoidable, I stand to the side of a car when working on it or take off the negative lead of the battery to insure my utmost safety.

Would those wires cause a draw on the system? It starts up fine now, purrs like the autobahn burning creature that its masters envisions whence it was first created. However, there is still a draw on the battery that threatens to suck it dry faster than a Tijuana pro working on a OC virgin.

Thanks anyways for the cavets, it is fun, none-the-less, to get ones hands dirty doing something that they enjoy.

Keith

Goo · 05-04-2005, 12:26 PM

The 944 is now back and threatening ricers in the NoVa area...the electrical daemon has been chased down and a new battery installed, the clutch has been bled and now engages sweetly and crisply...it is a beautiful day here in NoVa and I am going to go out and drive.

Soon a longer trip to North Carolina to earn some money to buy nice things for the 944, but now, we shall see what the back roads of VA have to offer.

Thanks to all for your suggestions!

Live Free and Drive,

Keith

earlr85944 · 05-04-2005, 02:01 PM

goo, i mean good to hear!
what was the electrical problem?

Goo · 05-04-2005, 03:01 PM

Bad ground at the headlight letting a bunch of loose electrons leak all over the car, you should've seen the puddle...

Keith