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naleshniki's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 11
Question shake, rattle & roll!

I've read a bunch of posts on this topic, but maybe I'm different??? I used to get a pretty good shake in the front end at 35-40mph; any faster or slower, it wouldn't be there. Got the wheels balanced & rotated but it didn't help. Well the monkeys at the tire place didn't bother checking for looseness in the front end so I did; about an INCH of play on the right side of the steering rack. So, last weekend I replaced:
steering rack
tie rod ends
ball joints
control arm bushings(front & back)

and the sway bar bushings are only a couple months old

took it for a test drive; the 35-40mph shake is gone. Now it shakes at 50mph and up. Got the front end aligned and the wheels balanced again; no change.

the right upper strut mount seems to have maybe 1/16" to 1/8" inch of play; the left side seems tight.

what is weird is the 50mph shake was NOT there before I did all the work! Did I mess something up? Everything went fairly well and the wheels appear tight; no slop(except that upper strut mount). Maybe something crapped out from being up on jack stands? Is this just a process of elimination? Motor mounts, strut mounts, wheel bearings, brake rotors?!?!?!?

It has Pirrelli P4000 tires that came with the car(I've owned it about 6 months

1984 944 NA

Thanks for reading!
Vrrrrrooooommm!
Old 04-06-2005, 06:20 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
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One of the dilemnas of suspension work is that one problem usually masks another.

As you can see the suspension was quite tired on that old girl of yours (she looks nice by the way).

YOu found play on your upper strut mount. That is next on your replacement list.

Sad to say that is usually how it goes.

But you can check to see how your wheel bearings (re-pack) are thats an easy cheap check.
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Old 04-06-2005, 09:13 AM
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Struts should not have any play...attend to that first.

I had a similar problem on older car, '83 without power steering. New rack, new tie rods, new ball joints, etc...but same old steering-wheel shaft. This shaft has two u-joints.

The u-joints are not servicable per say, but they are press fitted into the 'U' and had held in place by deforming the material around the rim. Hard to describe, but should be evident upon close inspection.

Getting the shaft out of the car is not too hard. Getting to the bolt on the upper connection is tight, it's right under the brake booster. The bottom connection is easier to get to from under the car.

For each u-joint, the ends of the 'X' are held in the 'U'. Mine were a little bit loose. A little bit here will be maginified at the steering wheel. I used a hammer and punch to push more of the material into holding the 'X' piece in place. This tightened up the u-joints, and eliminated the 50 mph vibration.

Good luck
JM

Last edited by JRMock; 04-06-2005 at 11:48 AM..
Old 04-06-2005, 11:46 AM
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I can sell you a rebuilt steering link for $150. New U-joints. Still the U-joints only fail because something in the system beat them to death. Bent rim. Bad tire. Worn struts.
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Old 04-06-2005, 12:52 PM
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I think I have it figured out; the afore mentioned "monkeys" did not balance the wheels right; twice! The vibration comes & goes as I round curves on the freeway as the unballanced wheels go in & out of sync with each other; the vibration or lack of does not change on the straightaways, only in cuvres. I'm gonna head for someplace else for a balance.
Old 04-07-2005, 04:46 AM
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Check the wheel bearings.
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Hugh - So Cal 83 944 Driver Person
NOT a 'real' Porsche -- Its Better!!!!
When was the last time you changed your timing and balance belts and/or cam chain and tensioner?
New Users please add your car's year and model to your signature line!
Never break more than you fix!
Old 04-07-2005, 06:21 AM
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That was it; took it to another place and the supposedly "balanced" wheels were totally out. They re-did it(it was the same tire chain so no charge) and she runs smoooooth!
Thanks guys.
Old 04-11-2005, 10:33 AM
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