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Engine overhall questions
Yesterday I worked on getting my 87 924S motor out, its like 99% there but I got sooooo mad at the bell housing bolt that on the D/S and is soooo close to the firwall that its a pain to get to so I had to stop. But I have a couple of quetions and need some advice.
1. While Im there should I replace the reference sensors they are original and I figure it will be a good idea. 2. Anyone have any tricks on getting the bell housing bolt off there is like no room, Last time I did this It came off easy but know (6years later) I wanna smash it 3. Anyone ever use any of ICESHARKS wiring kits, I was thinking of using the battery kit and a ground kit to update things, any ideas?? 4. I have always dropped the motor out the bottom, how much more of a pain is it to go out the top?? 5. Anyone ever replace the heat sheilding on the firewall??? Mine is starting to get nasty and I would love to replace it if I could. Thanx for the help guys, I cant wait to start doing performance upgrades but it seems like everytime I look at this thing Im just not happy and I need to make it just right before I start getting really crazy. :D |
BIG PITA to go out the top, you will scratch up the frame rails, etc. I pulled mine out the top and regretted it as soon as I got about half-way there. Went in and out about 7 times to get it all the way out,t aking something different off each time so it would fit out. Would have fit out the bottom the first try, complete.
Much simpler, crossmember attached and everything. The heat shielding is a bit of a pain to get off, but it will mess up the paint and such underneath it. I just used a 19mm wrench to get the bolt out, didn't give me any real grief, pulled the starter and clutch slave, had lots of room (sort of). I wouldn't replace the reference sensors unless they are bad, given how easy they are to get at on a N/A :) |
If your taking the motor out anyway, wait till the very end, drop the engine down with the torque tube attached as far as you can ( a couple inches ), and then remove the little devil. Thats what I do when removing the engine. Might as well take advantage of all the room you can get.
I would'nt replace the ref/speed sensors just for the sake of it either. Only if they are bad. Iceshark's kits. I just started installing his full boat lighting kit, with fog lighting upgrade today. I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit so far. I'm sure it will turn out to be a very good upgrade! I'm anxious to finish the install, and try it out. I'm sure It will be great! Firewall insulation. I removed the crap from one of my cars, cleaned, and painted the firewall with a textured paint, and just left it off. I know you can buy the insulation for less than $100.00 IIRC, but haven't gone that route yet. Motor out the top. Haven't tried it. I've had no problems going out the bottom. Someday I may try it, but.......maybe not. I've heard all kinds of stories, and just might have to find out how much BS there is to it, if any ( the stories that is. LOL ). |
Re: Engine overhall questions
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2. Bellhousing. FInd a ratchet with a pivoting head.......a long pipe.........and MAKE sure the socket is sitting nicely! 3. I have Icesharks on both cars. Light and Battery sets. They are great .......best investment. 4. I have pulled both from the top. I also removed everthing from the engine bay so it was not that bad. But if you are leaving most items in the engine bay (radiator etc) then the bottom is quicker.... 5. The heat shielding actually cleans up to original condition! Brake clean and a scotch brite pad. Don't buy new stuff. Its unbelievable how clean it comes! |
why not pull the bell housing with the engine out as one piece. 4 bolts from torque tube, and the operating shaft on the fork. It all slides forward off the spline and it can come down.
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What Rick said is the way to go.
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I've always pulled it with the bellhousing like Rick, but that would mean dropping the trans which is not fun.
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I've pulled out about 4 engines to date, all from the bottom, and always with the bell housing left on it. Never have I had to "drop" the transmision out to do it. No need to when you go out the bottom. Or the top for that matter.
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the torque tube and trany stay in place
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My bad. It's been a while.
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