Turn Signal Problem.... PART 3 !!READ!!
 

ok.... i drive to my local p-car mechanic (man who does things that i dont have equiptment to do) have an appointment for tomorrow at 1 to rewire my blinkers (replaced relay, and just bought a brand new switch for $75... STILL DONT WORK!!) so finally im taking the plunge to have it rewired... good bad idea??


FINAL PROBLEM - shortly after leaving Der Otto Werks (shop) i go to work, i left my house at 1 and EVERYTHING was going awesome, 7:30 comes along and i go out for my lunch (dinner i guess) break, get in my car and turn the ignition; turn turn ignite. runs for about 2.5 seconds then dies, the night before at my friends house it just sat there and only the engine would turn, nothing would ignite, so i leave it there overnight and go back in the morning. boom it starts right up, i go home and get ready to leave (refer to paragraph 1 for details) anyways i thought it just needed an hour or so, so i went to break with a friend, come back, go inside, come back out 2 hours after i had first tried, NO START!!!!, sit and try and try and try until i just want to pull out my hair and cry myself to sleep in my car, so i decided i would just call to get a ride home, i took out my box, 6 disc, and deck (i dont work in the most 'friendliest' areas) my mom came and got me and my stereo lol, ok now, what is the problem, ive made a list, someone tell me what it most likely would be, and ask me if you need more details to be sure

1. Fuel Pump & Filter
2. Fuel Injectors
3. DME Relay
4. the entire car...


ok number 4 was a joke, but what should i do?? my boss and i are abid german car lovers (he drives a 97 M3) he sat a whole hour with my in the parking lot trying to help me get things started, i dont think its the injectors because i ONLY get gas from cheveron (supreme with techron) and im assured from many people this helps keep injectors clean, i dont want to make a move without knowing what it is, as more money will be wasted (turn signal switch, $75 down the pooper) tomorrow morning i am going back to work (i dont work i just need to get my car) i am hoping it will start right up as it has before, but i need to get this fixed, i cant have this keep happening, please i need an answer, my dad is furious with me for not selling my car already as i have put so much money into it, but i cant, i love my car.. :( i absolutely cant bring myself to sell it, someone please help me, it seems like the more i fix the more gets broken, I NEED AN ANSWER

try push starting the car...
if it starts up, u know it's the starter....

hey, try this out......
turned out mine was bad, new one at the dealership cost me
$36......good luck
DME Relay

I just re-read your post... sounds like the starter is running fine.. my bad..

Check the speed and reference senders.

I just had something similar happen to me, although my signal wasn't acting up. After cranking it like a fool for ten seconds I gave up and popped the hood. As soon as I popped the hood the vacuum line popped out of the fuel regulator and fuel was spraying out of the regulator. Apparently the diaphragm in the regulator had busted and the engine was sucking gas through the vacuum line into the manifold, to the point where line was saturated/filled with gas so the fitting popped off. A new regulator and lots of airing and emptying gas out of the air hoses and what not (something like a scene from an autozone parking lot, except more horrifying because it's a porsche) got me back on the road. Had gas in the crankcase and had to flush all the oil out. Just my two cents. I'm going out tomorrow to buy a fire extinguisher.

my only non-start issue was caused by speed/reference sensors not getting a good connection, as pokey noted.

If you buy a regular chemical fire extinguisher be aware that if you ever have to use it you will ruin a LOT of stuff in the engine bay, mostly electrical. Of course a fire will do worse so it is the lesser of two evils. Wash off the residue quick as you can.

So you may want to consider the more expensive halon extinguisher. One reason it is more expensive is halon was banned about 10 years ago as an ozone eating gas so all the stocks are from pre 1994. Though I suppose there are black market supplies coming from crooked places like China and India. In any event it is like R12 refrigerant so sort of expensive.

What replaces Halon then?

I've got a 2.5 lb Halon unit in my car now...

Jason

I've never really looked into suitable Halon replacements for an engine bay fire as there is still alot of it around. Not only do you have current production from the rogue countries but it is recovered and recycled from old fire suppression systems. Aircraft, ships, computer rooms - there is a LOT of it out there. For your little fire extinguisher I wouldn't worry for another 10+ years about replacement stocks.

how do i check these? where are they etc. im about to leave to go get it, ill be back in roughly and hour and ill let you guys know the outcome

ok so i used the DME 'jumper' wiring on FR Wilks webpage, once again FR, THANK YOU, adaptor board is awesome, dme jumper allowed me to drive my car home from my work, now it rests in my driveway, so what im gathering is, if the jumper test works for the dme, then the dme is bad, correct?

a faulty DME relay is the most common no start problem on these cars.

at the bottom of FRWilks DME relay page he suggest "Always carry a new DME Relay in your glove box!" and many of us do

I don't have a spare DME relay, yet. But I do have a three legged jumper in my glove box, justin case.

yep im quite certain its the dme, im picking one up locally from boyds auto this wensday, $35, i think im going to keep my 'Jumper' one in the glove box for emergencies.