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fuel leak

I have a small fuel leak on my 86 944 turbo and due to the number of these cars catching fire recently on the forums, I'm scared to drive my car. I don't have much time to shop around for the best price and service because this is my everyday driver and I have a job that is during the week when Porsche repair shops are open. It's hard calling during the weekend when everything is closed. The leak appears to be around the injector(s). Today I looked at it and where there is a little gap (fuel injector or rail?)and i saw a little movement inside maybe bubbling? I want to take care of this first thing Monday when the shops open, but would like to know what to have replaced. The fuel system is stock, and the car is 20 years old. I would want to refresh everything because there are many 20 yr old hoses over the exhaust headers, and that itself is scary. What do you guys expect a job like this costing, and what should I replace? Any nice upgrades I could go for while i'm spending money? I also read a while back that having a shop redoing the fuel system is good insurance because if the car does catch fire, the shop that did the fuel work will have their insurance company pay for damages as a result of their mistake? I carry a small fire extinguisher with me and hopefully I wont need to use it on the way to work/garage. Using one if pretty straight forward right? Pop the hood and put the fire out if one should start, im just a little worried the fire will burn me when i pop the hood, should it catch fire. (I worry alot when it comes to my car)

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1986 Porsche 951

Last edited by ZPmadA; 07-22-2005 at 04:29 PM..
Old 07-22-2005, 04:26 PM
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Here are pictures:


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1986 Porsche 951
Old 07-23-2005, 06:25 AM
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You need to replace the injector seals. The seals are available here and a very simple job. Unbolt the rail remove each injector, replace the seals, then re-install. Piece of cake rate it on a scale of 1. Do not drive it until seals are replaced or fire is imminent.
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Old 07-23-2005, 06:34 AM
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One Less 'S'

scary his fire was a result of replacing the injector seals... kinda makes me want to go all out and replace all the seals and fuel lines, what should I tell the shop to replace to avoid an engine fire in the future because if I take it down there, they'll probably just do the injector seals.
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Old 07-23-2005, 03:43 PM
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If replacing the seals caused a fire the installer was a jerk.

Check the plastic caps on the bottom of injectors for wear and cracking. Cheap enough to replace.

preperation is everything! clean the holes in the intake and the fuel rail, take your time and assure clean. Lubricate new seals with silicone O-Ring lubricant. Make sure the rail brackets are not bent and the injectors seat fully.

Rick
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'83 944 "Guards Red"
New Everything (seems like)
16" 968 Wheels
has never left garage (yet)
Old 07-24-2005, 04:22 PM
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I've checked out the pelican parts website and am having trouble locating the parts I'll need to fix this leaky injector. Is it this?

Fuel Injector Seal Kit, 1 Kit Per Injector, 944 All (1983-91), Each $5.45 E-110-901-00

How come it says 1 kit per injector? That means I should buy 4?
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Old 07-24-2005, 05:01 PM
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If fuel is collecting on top of the cylinder head it could well be the body of the injector itself that is leaking (and not the squirt end). Had it happen.

The seal just keeps air from leaking around the injector into the manifold area; it does not contain the fuel. There is no fixing a leaky injector body, it must be replaced.
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Old 07-24-2005, 08:05 PM
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Yup, that's the kit. includes everything including cap
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Old 07-25-2005, 03:56 AM
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Lower injector seals on a turbo keep the higher manifold pressure in. Old seals = bubbling around the end of the enjector where it mates with the head.

The other end of the injector that mates with the fuel rail is critical for fuel leakage. Replace the seals top and botton then look for fuel leakage from the seam in the center of the injectors.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by FLA944
If replacing the seals caused a fire the installer was a jerk.

Check the plastic caps on the bottom of injectors for wear and cracking. Cheap enough to replace.

preperation is everything! clean the holes in the intake and the fuel rail, take your time and assure clean. Lubricate new seals with silicone O-Ring lubricant. Make sure the rail brackets are not bent and the injectors seat fully.

Rick
I would recommend doing a bit of research before making such statements.

My engine fire did not occur (from the best I can tell) at the injectors themselves. Instead, when moving the fuel rail out of the way to work on the injectors, I believe it weakened the old German rubber on the fuel line that leads to the rail. When the car was under acceleration, the weakened line burst, spraying gasoline on the exhaust manifold.

Everything was reassembled properly and triple-checked. I let the car sit for a weekend after doing all of the work to ensure any spilled gasoline that I had missed had evaporated. I ran the engine for five minutes in my garage and checked for leaks with a dental mirror. Sometimes being extremely careful is not enough. Sometimes despite one's best efforts, a problem occurs that cannot be detected in time to prevent disaster.

I don't appreciate being called a "jerk" just because my car suffered an unfortunate accident that I made every effort to prevent.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:38 AM
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Legion,

sorry for the insult is was not intended as flame. You are correct i should have researched. I just have seen alot of fuel fires due to improper (lazy) replacement of the seals also especially on the earlies due to bending/broken fuel rail brackets.

I am sorry you lost yours and that experience will help others to monitor the rubber fuel line for cracks and hopefully save another occurance.

Again, Sorry
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'83 944 "Guards Red"
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:06 AM
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Call me a bit paranoid, but this weekend, I pulled, back flushed and resealed, all 4 injectors and have the pressure line on order from the dealer (944 356 029 12) for $64.67. Number 4 injector took 4 back flushes to clear it out. What a difference it made in the running of the engine, much smoother acceleration.
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:48 AM
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Any work on the fuel rail must be done correctly. This means the feed and return hoses too. You can use aftermarket swedge fittings on the feed line as well as buying the factory replacement. The return line is not so critical as denoted in it's worm or ring clamps.

Also don't hold the fuel rail to loosen and remove the FPR or damper. You will crack the rather thin rail where the bracket is welded to it.

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Old 07-25-2005, 10:37 AM
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