Power Window Circuits
 

Forget everything I said in the previous thread about my electrical problem. Here are the facts:

The battery is draining while the car is resting, maybe while the car is driving too.

I misread the scale on my multimeter. 0.26 on the 10A setting is 260 milli-amps.

I started pulling fuses last night with the multimeter set up to measure amperage. When I got to the fuse for the power windows, the amperage dropped from 260 milli-amps to 20 milli-amps. The voltage on the battery at the same time went from 11.40 volts to 12.83 volts. I then replaced the fuse for the power windows and the amperage stayed at 20 milli-amps. I then pulled the fuse for the clock and the amperage dropped to 0.

So, it seems I have a short somewhere in the circuit for the power windows. The way I see it, it could be one of four things: the relay, a window switch, a window motor, or the wiring. It really perplexes me that pulling the fuse seems to have fixed the problem.

After work today, I'm going to see if rolling down the windows causes the draw to reoccur. I figured I'd quit last night after the small victory of determing what circuit the problem was on.

Anyway, assuming I can recreate the draw, how do I isolate which component on the power window circuit is causing the problem?

Thanks! :) :) :)

just try unpluggng the switches...
if you see a draw on the battery of amps from the window circuit... you could possibly have a short in the switch itself..

Could be a sticking relay. Supposed to turn off with the ignition switch.

How do I test the relay?

I did another test...

If I put the key in the iginition, switch to accessory mode, and roll down one window, the current draw increases by about 100 milli-amps. It doesn't matter which window I roll down.