Need Some Head Help
 

Okay,

I've got a 90 S2 that suffered a chain tensioner failure about a year and a half ago. The valves look fine but the mounting boss broke leaving the plug hole intact. I bought a rebuilt head anyway and finally got around to putting it in.

Here's my problem. I have the flywheel at TDC and put the cams in per FSM and Mr. Mitros Pics(thanks BTW) now I can't turn the crank by hand. With the belt off and the cams set the crank turns fine. As soon as I put the belt on I get about a quarter turn and that's it. Could it be the rebuilt head has been in my garage so long that its frozen? I 've been at this for three days now and about to give up. If I can't get it running by tommorrow, off to the shop it goes. Any suggestion before it comes to that would be greatly appreciated.

TIA,
Drew

Are you sure that teh cams are timed correctly? Are you sure that the cams are installed properly?

Sounds like something is binding up in the head.
Double check, measure, and verify everything.

AFJ.

I've pulled them out and checked them four times getting the same results. I know I measured the distance btween the cast lugs correctly.
I'm at a loss.

Well it looks like I'm done with tinkering with it, more like cursing at it, for the day. I won't be able to get it towed until Wed. so I have a couple of days to work at . Any suggestions? Bueller... Bueller...

Thanks,
Drew

Maybe you're a full turn off instead of all lined up.....

or is it half turn?

I'm pretty sure the crank is at TDC. I checked at the flywheel, #1 is all the way up, and all my pulleys are marked with paint.

When I measured the distance on the lugs per the factory workshop manual, I thought the picture was from the front of the engine, it is actually from the rear, looking forward--maybe this is your problem.
Just a suggestion........
Jeff

I assume FSM means factory shop manual? Make sure the lobs of the cams look the same relative to the pics in the FSM.
Jeff

I checked them and they match exactly. I'm gonna try to turn the crank with just the exhaust cam in to try and narrow done which cam is binding.

Here's an update. I removed the intake cam and just used the exhaust cam by itself and it turn effortlessly. So I narrowed it down to the intake side. How do I troubleshoot this?

Another update. I put the exhaust cam from my old head in and I got the same results. It won't turn either. So I've narrowed it down to the two#4 intake valves since they are the first to open.

Now what?

The #4 intake valves were stuck. I used a 3/4 pvc coupler and compressed the springs. There was a little resistance then a slight pop. They move up and down pretty freely now. I'll have to check the rest of the valves later. I may try to run the cam without the lifters in to see if ts binding, hand turning of course.

Newest update:

I've freed up all the frozen valves, cams are in, timing belt set, and everything put back together.

Now my newest problem which I'm sure many of you had.

It won't start. The starter and crank are turning but I'm either not getting fuel or no spark.

I'm so close, I can't stand it.

What's the simplest ways to check both of those?

If your a turn off,in other words you would still be able to not bend valves but your firing will hit when the piston is not under compression.

Dme relay?

Compression?

Dme is ok, the tach jumps when I try to start it. I haven't checked compression yet. I'm thinking its a fuel problem cause I don't smell any fuel with all the cranking I've done.