if anyone does break the window, i'll take the frame

Got the glass regooped, let it dry for 3 days, then reinstalled the hatch. The hatch is not leaking anymore, but I still have water coming in from the rear latches or taillights. At least its not by the gallon anymore. My latch pins were so rusted that after soaking in kroil (like pb blaster) for 2 days I twisted the pins trying to remove the nuts. Just ordered new pins, nuts and hatch rubber seal things from ***********.com. She will be water tight some day.:rolleyes:

Local shop resealed my window for 100$. He scratched the glass but he buffed it out :)

Jaime, Think I'll look into that option. Did they do a good job? Definitly worth the $100 just for the frustration part. Thanks for the info.

I had some glass technicians come out to my place yesterday to reseal my rear deck glass, and all they could say was "Oh, Lordy...". They requested I take it to their shop, where the owner (who reportedly had past experience with these cars) wanted to take a look and see what could be done. He examined the problem for a few minutes, and said he wanted nothing to do with it, as he didn't want to spring for a new deck lid and glass.

I called around and located a used rear deck lid with glass, still well-sealed, at a reasonable price (just a bit more than the original estimate for just resealing the rear deck. Is there a resource online with good procedures for deck replacement? Still waitng for shop manuals...

Thanks, guys!

I thought about buying a used one, but if not every one, almost every one eventually does the same thing. I'm told it's the supports that hold the hatch up putting the pressure on the frame that causes it to break loose. If that's the case, then I want to just fix the problem with something better than factory if I can. We'll see how it goes.

Other then the scratch yeap good job, No leek's any more. It's not perfect the glue that they used Wasent put on perfectly, And i dont know if they coudl have the glue was put on a consistant thickness some parts pushed out of the fram a little more then others but it's not realy noticable unless you're up close to it. I'll take some pic's of it. Now that i look at it i could have done it myself with 2 wide stance with paddign on them to put the glass on its side, A extra pair of hands some clamps and the right glue. Still worth the 100$ to me was done in 1 bussiness day

well good news i took some pics. bad news is the side that had theproblem is coming undone again. Since it seems to be happening continualy i'm assuming It's my adjustments on the hatch the passenger side hatch locking thingy was bent and probly has pulled the glass out again :(. This is my theory and hopefully its right :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1139168309.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1139168323.jpg

The problem is that it was not properly bonded. The only way to insure proper bonding is to tear it completely apart then use the proper glass cleaners, primers and adhesive to rebond it all back together like I discussed earlier in this post.

20 years of UV light exposure is what causes the original bond to fail. The top edge is where this typically shows up first because gravity is working the glass away from the frame here and when the hatch is slammed shut, it is working that debonding area pretty hard.

Hey Jaime, I don't think it's anything you are doing wrong. I agree with Tim, I think if it's done properly it will stay again for the next twenty years. I think I'm going to follow his lead on how to fix mine and take it all apart and clean everything and start over. Sounds pretty risky, so I'm not looking forward to the take apart process. I was thinking about building a tool that might help but I haven't come up with a design yet. I was thinking about maybe a pair of plier looking things that had a wedge on one side but I haven't figured out how to keep the pressure off the glass. Or possibly a "U" shaped looking thing that pulled each side of the frame open at the same time using a mechanical screw of some sort which should help remove the pressure from the glass. Still just not sure yet what would work best. Seems like there are enough people around here that could use it, so I thought I would build it and we could just pass it around as people needed it...if it actually works that is Anyone have any ideas on what might actually work for this?

I watched a professional glass guy use a saws-all type tool that had a thin "putty knife" looking attachment on the end. He used it to work between the glass and the frame of a car he was replacing the window in. This might work, but the 924/944 hatches have a lip around the perimeter that keeps one from shoving athin blade all the way thru.

I used various razor blades and putty knifes along with WD-40 as a lubricant. It is doable, one just needs to be careful and not rush it.

I'll have to look at it a little closer when I get started or see if I can find a detailed picture of what the frame looks like in detail so I can get a better picture of what I'm trying to accomplish. There has been a lot of good description here but I'm not sure I fully understand all the parameters...yet.