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Location: Long Island, NY
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Cam tensioner pad removal 9(944S)
I got everything off and am now trying to get the pad out. I am ale to compress the tensioner but how do i do that in a way that it is free from the chain so I can swap the old pad for the new one? Or do you have to take the whole tensioner out to swap the pad/ramp?
HELP!!
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Dan 1988 Turbo S (Red) 2005 Acura TL Black [Totaled] 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland (Black) http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...S/dsc_0437.jpg Last edited by Jeeper31; 03-21-2006 at 06:00 PM.. |
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from what I have read, you compress the tensioner then remove the tensioner and replace the pad. be sure to check the J tube for cracks as well. Check clarks garage for the article
I am debating on wether to do the pad or the whole assembly, How many miles on your car? |
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Hmmm...now that you mention it I believe you will have to completely remove the tensioner assembly to replace the pad. Which means you'll need new crush washers when you re-connect the J-tube.
I changed the whole assy on mine at ~85K.
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1995 993C4 guards red 1988 944S alpine white |
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i di dhave to remove the whole assembly. easier than i thought. he crush washers stayed on the j-tube so i didn't replace them.
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Dan 1988 Turbo S (Red) 2005 Acura TL Black [Totaled] 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland (Black) http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...S/dsc_0437.jpg |
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Gtroth; what else did you replace. I have one mechanic telling me to do the tensioner, J tube, and chain. Another is telling to open it up and go from there, Maybe just the pad maybe the whole thing. Both are very very well versed in the 944's and daily have at least a few in for service.
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Will i have any problem if i did not replace he crush washers? I disconnected one endof the j-tube and just loosened the other end.
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Dan 1988 Turbo S (Red) 2005 Acura TL Black [Totaled] 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland (Black) http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...S/dsc_0437.jpg |
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I did the whole tensioner assembly since I wanted to do the bottom pad and I did all the crush washers. I wanted to do the j-tube "pipeline" until I found out it was ~$130. Too much for what it was I decided. On close inspection it was absolutely pristine, so I'm alright with that choice.
I did the cover gasket and spark plug seals too but didn't think to do the grommets for the cover screws. Wish I had - they're seeping a little. PO left me with one broken screw, one bent screw, and one mildly stripped-head screw. They're ~$22 ea., so I replaced the broken one and moved on. Be careful with those, torque them right. I used antisieze. My mechanic recommended the chain too, but I did the work and I couldn't face pulling the cams at that time. It would be good to have the chain stretch limits for that.
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1995 993C4 guards red 1988 944S alpine white |
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Mein Gott!
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Okay, so just to be clear - if a normal Joe was simply looking to change the pad only, what would be the steps? (putting aside the pad vs. replacing the entire assembly debate)
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Johnny 1987 944S 1984 944 (R.I.P.) 1972 Triumph TR6 - 100% trouble free between breakdowns 2003 BMW 325xi |
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I would replace the whole thing. I have receipts from the PO of my 944S. Those receipts are what would make me change the whole thing.
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Ok, pad only, regular joe like me, I'd do this:
1. read Clarks and this: boergers 2. buy pad, gasket, sparkplug rings, screw grommets, crush washers. 3. get set of metric hex driver bits for your ratchet. 4. get torque wrench 5. carefully remove cover screws. 6. work cover off and out. 7. compress tensioner with your hand and insert some pins through the holes in the tensioner to hold it compressed. I used nails ground dull and smooth for pins 8. carefully remove the j-tube bolts and tensioner assy bolts. Be insanely careful not to drop any washers. There are 2 per end on the pipeline (4 total). 9. remove tensioner assy. 10. remove pins 11. slide off tensioner pad 12. slide on new pad 13. compress tensioner with your hand and insert pins. You'll want the pins nice and smooth here so you don't score the new plastic. 14. reinstall tensioner assy, using new crush washers and torquing carefully. 15. replace spark-plug ring seals, and grommets on the cover. 16. put new cover gasket in place 17. apply sealant to the corners of the gasket 18. re-mount cover torquing carefully. 19. if you used silicone sealent, wait until tomorrow and start her up.
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i did all that except I decided to lose one of the crush washers inthe engine. How dangerous is this?
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Dan 1988 Turbo S (Red) 2005 Acura TL Black [Totaled] 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland (Black) http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...S/dsc_0437.jpg |
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I would start looking for that washer, I can imagine a loose washer around your cams and bearings is going to help things. I suppose the best case senario is that it made its way down to the oil pan while the car was off.
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I actually saw it down one of the shoots (for lack of abetter word) right under the J-tube and when I tried to fish it out with a hanger i knocked it farther down the shoot. I hopwe that shoot goes to the oil pan. Any ideas where it goes?
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Dan 1988 Turbo S (Red) 2005 Acura TL Black [Totaled] 2008 Grand Cherokee Overland (Black) http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c9...S/dsc_0437.jpg |
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