damn O2 threads
 

i had a heck of a time gettin the old one out, but putting the new one in, i don't know if i cross threaded it or the threads were just too shot in the exhaust pie, but i ruined the threads on the new one and it popped out on the test drive. that was a quick $70!!!
now what? anyone know what size tap i need to fix the threads in the pipe before i waste another sensor?

Same as a spark plug... I seem to recall 14mm x 1.50 or so.

thx George

maybe i'll just put a spark plug in there and call it a day!

Anti-seize the threads of the sensor, not the pipe's threads, when you re-install. A little goes a LONG way. And, DON'T get any of it on the end of the sensor.

Most FLAPS have the double ended spark plug thread chaser tool available. Metric of course.

i did use the anti-seize but it didn't help, what is a FLAPS?

fried linguine and pasta sauce

Yeah that happened to me... I took the easy route and just chipped it so that the sensor would be ignored :cool:

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store

thx, any ideas about the stripped O2 sensor whole, anybody?

Try chasing the threads with the right sized tap.

Typically, the threads in the hole are not stripped, but the threads from the previous O2 sensor are left in the hole, making it tough to work with.

If indeed the hole is stripped, you will have to replace the catalytic converter or, at a minimum, weld a new bung into the cat so you can use the O2 sensor.

Use the anti-seize on good clean threads on install. Copper based would be my choice here. Anti-seize on crappy/dirty/half stripped/already galled threads............won't help ya much at all, if any.

damn!

Search for a tool called the back-tap. It essentially allows you to run along the good threads on the inside to clean out the threads on the outside. I had to do this when I somehow crossthread a spark plug and the tool worked like a charm.

PHEW! GOT IT! thank-you all, it was a pita but i finally got it. I at first bought the wrong tap, it was the correct size but for the spark plug threads in aluminum blocks, it wasn't hard enough to clear the threads in the steel ex. pipe! with the right tap and lot's of patience i was finally able to clear out the threads. it seems like it would be a good idea to run a tap thru there any time you change one of these, especially if the threads look bad on the old one when you take it out! I didn't get to the "back-tap" but hopefully i can remember that name for the next time i need one. thanks again, jc o, and i was able to use the first O2 sensor i bought, even tho the first couple threads were damaged, by carefully lining it up and and holding it straight while threading it in.

FYI...They also make a product called a helicoil that allows you to repair threads. Basically the way it works is you drill it out bigger and tap new threads and then screw in a helicoil which is basically a reducer that sets the new bigger threads back to the original size. I typically use these anywhere I need to make threads in an aluminum part (such as my dirt bikes) because aluminum threads do not last too long and steel bolts tend to get stuck in aluminum threads. So by putting a steel helicoil in there, the steel bolt screws into steel threads.

A helicoil kit for an O2 sensor is probably comparable in price to replacing the O2 bung...
Helicoils are great, but the kits aren't cheap.

plus, i would have to have taken the exhaust system off to drill that out and that didn't look like it would be pretty, good stuff to know tho, thank-you