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Oxidized paint question?

Hey guys,
This probably has been asked many a time but i have a red 944, which has suffered from the paint faiding.

Ive heard that around the year it was made '85 that there was a bad batch of 2 pack paint? im not sure how true this is but its what i found on the internet.

The paint has faded on the bonnet and sunroof, the rest of the car isnt too bad, its like a oxidization (sp) as it will scratch off with your finger nail.

Has anyone else had the same problem? I t-cutted small areas and its not really brought it up too well, im thinking its not abrasive enough and im considering compounding the bonnet and roof? Is there any product you can buy for this job?

Are there many UK people on this board by the way? as i might not be able to get products you guys have.

thanks
Old 09-17-2006, 03:04 PM
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I am pretty sure red and white (those are the two colors i remember) were not clear coated from the factory and are notorious for fading. My guards red car was also heavily faded, the worse areas are the areas that see direct sunlight..the roof, front and rear bumpers and the hood which is the worse. I was able to polish the paint by hand to a pretty decent luster but the hood and roof require constant attention before they get a hazy, cloudly look in the reflection.

I would consider trying a more abrasive compound, just be careful you dont burn through the paint!
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:17 PM
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I used Meguires three step solution to get the oxidation off my paint. The three steps are 1. Cleaner 2. Polish 3. Wax(I use the nxt generation tech wax) This is the best solution I found and many people have asked if it was repainted.
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:22 PM
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I should have mentioned, the stuff i used was actually the Meguiars 3-step that liljon mentioned.
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1988 Granite Green 911 3.4L
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Past worth mentioning - 1987 924S, 1987 944, 1988 944T with 5.7L LS1
Old 09-17-2006, 04:53 PM
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Red no matter the brand will fade, just a matter of time and care by the owner.
That said if the oxidation is not too deep into the base you can use a buffer and compound to buff out then re seal. My 87 has clear coat. May need to cut the entire car out and re clear coat as well. Do a test area w/rubbing compound and see how deep the oxidation is before trying to buff it out. May not be alot of base coat left and start seeing white primer.

Dal
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Old 09-18-2006, 12:28 AM
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I have been in industries that have used thr common pruducts in 55 gal drums ..

I would recommend using :
Red compound ( little white round tin )
White Coumpound ( little white round tin )
McGuires Paint cleaner
McGuires Polish, multiple times as it replenishes the oils in the new surface.
once it looks OK, wash the hell out of it, with brushes in every crevace ..

Repeat the polish 2 or 3 more times (yeah, buy a couple bttles)

finish off with Carnuba
Carnuba I think is best applied from a hard paste for a few coats, then use a soft paste or the liquid ..



Thats my process .. now I just need decent paint to do it ..


** I'm afraid mines destined to be resprayed, in the rear as a minimum.
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Old 09-18-2006, 01:50 AM
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It's 20-year-old paint. Even very good paint at that age would probably show some aging unless it's been very well cared for, garaged, covered, etc.

There's nothing whatsoever wrong with a good-quality respray in my opinion. So it ain't "factory". Big deal. If it's done well what would you rather have - crappy factory paint or great-looking non-factory paint (that's a more modern chemical composition as well and liable to last longer)?

I see respraying in the near future for my fleet - I just refuse to get a "cheapo" job - I want good paint and the work done by someone that knows what they're doing even if it's a little more $$$.
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:30 AM
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Actually it is never the painting but the PREP! Poor prep=poor finish. If one does a bang up prep job any paint will look good including respraying.

Dal
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Old 09-18-2006, 11:40 AM
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i bought a machine buffer today, and bought some "red" t-cut and wow its come up, ive only done the bonnet but its made one hell of a difference. Theres a couple of spots of "milky" looking paint but i think it will come off.

Its not the best but its put off having to respray the car,

so the question now is what polish do people use apart from the mentioned mcguires to keep on top of the oxidising?

thanks for all the replys people
Old 09-18-2006, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by britaxcooper

so the question now is what polish do people use apart from the mentioned mcguires to keep on top of the oxidising?

Can't help but the best way to avoid oxidation is to park in the shade if at all possible or get a car cover that blocks out UV if there is such a thing.

Dal
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Old 09-18-2006, 03:40 PM
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very good suggestion! id be intrested if theres a cover that would protect it, ill have alook about.

Theres not much shade in my back garden, although its not sunny much either! thats the UK in general.
Old 09-18-2006, 03:56 PM
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I use Mother's. Both are good.
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Old 09-18-2006, 07:19 PM
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Non metalic red is the hardest colour the keep in good condition as it has the worst oxidation of all paints. Just remember when you cut and polish you remove approx 1micron of the painted surface to expose the fresh paint under neath there by giving back the luster. The best idea is to seal the finish with a good sealer, I use Magiurs Gold Canarba wax as it seems to last better than all the different products I have used. And Down in in the land of Aus the paint takes alot of punishment.
So what I suggest is to take the car to a profesional and have them do their best, that will make it easier for you to mantain useing the sealer of your choice.
Iam in the process of painting my car useing a gaurds red base coat with a clear over the top, and yes the better the prep the better the finish, there are no short cuts for a perfect job.
Sorry if I was a bit long winded. (my 2 cents less tax)
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Old 09-21-2006, 03:44 AM
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mother's clay bar, then realseal with scratch X, then nu-finish,,,twice
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Old 09-22-2006, 05:32 PM
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