Just tried to start it with a new ref sensor...
 

Guess what it didnt start...Hopefully it was because the battery wasnt fully charged when I tried. The tach is boucning though which is a good sign. It bounced up to like 1.5k then back down again. If it doesnt start after the battery is charged I dont know what to do. Possibly suicide....

Are you sure you have the sensors gapped correctly?

Up to 1.5k?.... that is a tad high.
How close is the starter positive wire to the speed/reference sensor wires?
I recall there being an interference problem on the later 944's and it manifested as no-start and very high tach readings when cranking.

Then again, a dead/almost dead battery can cause a similar tach reading.

put me in your will... i just ask for the car, that's all.. your family can have the rest.

Now the tach isnt really boucning with a full charge ....This is freaking weird. Im at my wits end. Im about to bring it into a mechanic and see what he says.

Tap on your computer and see if it starts bouncing again. You may have a computer that only works part time...usually from corroded solder joints.

I resoldered that whole computer though ....Would the injectors and spark plugs still fire even if the computer was bad?

Im really back at square one. Im going to buy a new coil to see if that solves it. I WAS getting weak spark but I was getting spark. So im going to get a coil shipped 2 day and go from there

Ohm out the coil...that's a really easy test. If I had to guess, I would guess it's the ignition module more than the coil but that is only a guess. If the computer was bad, generally the plugs will not fire. Did I miss an earlier post as I am unsure what all you have done?

the plugs fire ...the coil fires but its weak sometimes and strong sometimes.....i was guessing it was the ref sensor but im going to test the coil since thats pretty much the only thing i havent touched yet

is it possible for a coil to not have been used for a year then finally be used then only work for a little while thing work intermittently then top working?

anything electrical can work and then stop and then work again. When something is intermittent, it's usually a bad connection somewhere...especially if it's been sitting for a year. I would clean and check my grounds before I did much else. Probably one or more are corroded. Use an ohm meter and go from the negative side of the battery to various points on your car...like the engine/body under hood ....and if you don't read 0 ohms, then start cleaning until you do...or at least get very close to it. I also coat my connections after I have cleaned them with dielectric grease to help prevent them from corroding again.

Damn my uncle was right...Coil pack. I tested it per instruction and I got the correct reading from pole 1 to 15 (between .4-.6 ohms) BUT when I tested from 4 to the main coil connection I didnt get any reading from the voltmeter. Im so stupid for not testing that #4 hole in the coil. I didnt even know it was there under that rubber plug. It looks pretty nasty inside the coil and the metal inside is all soft.

Anyone know any business that has coils in the tristate area that ship quick?

#4 hole in the coil?
What are we talking about?.... Something I don't know about as well.

Let's hope that is what it is. Let us know how it works out.

its under a little rubber plug on top of the coil. Look close it just looks like the top of the coil. there will be a #4. take out the plug and thats the inside of the coil.

#4 is the socket for the HV wire coming out of the top of the coil to dist cap. The off center hole is where the coil was filled with oil.

odd ..the small hole seems to be marked #4 ...anyways i read thats where you can test the coil to see if its good

Scan and post the "I read where" page.

Here is what the Porsche 944 electrials indicate:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161702784.jpg

So we are talking about the HT lead on the coil, and not some mystical 4th terminal on it. Got it :)