My 83 will not start

z3davis · 10-06-2006, 09:55 AM

Might be the same problem as another poster, but not sure.. I have never had problems with it before.. IT runs solid and starts up instantly (normally) today is the first day it has not started for me.. It cranks, but it sounds like it is not getting fuel.. Battery and fuses are all fine.. I guess it could be the relay---seemed kind of tricky to pull that one out and I do not think looking at it would tell me anything anyway.. Come on guys I need your magic tricks. I just wanted to run some errands in it--Thanks

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

Probably the DME relay but I have the later model and can't remember how to jump it to test. Search here as there are many many threads that tell you where it is and how to build a jumper to go around it and prove that is what is faulty. You should always have a spare one of those anyway, so you may want to consider going to the parts section here and placing one on order. You can also check out clarks-garage.com and the technical manual will explain how to build the jumper as well.

z3davis · 10-06-2006, 12:03 PM

seems the relay is a little different on an 83 vs. 85.5's on clarks site.. I just pulled all the fuses and the relays to make sure all the terminals were good. The car builds oil pressure, but there is just no fuel getting to the system the tach stays flat the entire time I try to crank it over.. Do you think the relay for the fuel pump is smoked? I pulled it apart and it looks fine--it actually looks newer. Yes it has gas in the car---is there a fuel filter somewhere--maybe that thing is stuffed..? The air filter is perfect.

mattdavis11 · 10-06-2006, 12:52 PM

Any problems with the multi-wire connection at the positive side of the battery? Mine had a similar problem once, and it "looked" fine.

Edit: the same problem.

z3davis · 10-06-2006, 01:21 PM

Matt I am actually a wuss so I disconnected the battery terminals before pulling fuses and the relays.. Seems good at least at the battery site--no exposed wire and everything was secure--I am getting juice though so I ruled out the battery--could it still be a problem there? I know these older cars like to be picky about the amps and voltage. I am going to snag a buddies booster pack hook that thing up to rule out the battery--it is a little colder here today, but it just seems like it is not getting fuel.,

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

The DME relay controls whether the fuel pump runs or not. I still think that is the problem. Bypass the relay the way it is outlined in clarks-garage.com and see if the fuel pressure doesn't return.

mattdavis11 · 10-06-2006, 04:12 PM

If you aren't getting power to the DME, it doesn't matter. The tack being in operable pointed me to suggest as thus. I may be wrong though.

What I found is a small wire (red, IIRC) in the bunch that connects to the + batt. terminal wasn't making a good connection. Not pulling power to the DME.

Razor is right, however I did check the easiest first. I haven't had a bad relay, yet.

mattdavis11 · 10-06-2006, 05:08 PM

Oil pressure guage works, my bad z3.

z3davis · 10-07-2006, 06:07 AM

slightly confused as to which spot is 30,87,and 87b when looking at the panel where the relay came from. I could not find it on clarks.. would an 87 944 relay be the same?--I will go and snag a friends if that is the case--- or point me in the direction to figure out which slot is which-I will make the relay

z3davis · 10-07-2006, 08:45 AM

went to Radio shack bought the male connectors and made the bypass. Fuel pump came on (i could hear it ) car still would not start.... Tried my buddies relay --car still would not start----What do I try next?

nynor · 10-07-2006, 08:49 AM

i would verify that the rotor is turning. sounds just like my problem when my timing belt failed. do a search, you will find my entire woeful story. just take the rotor off, mark the position with a pencil and crank it a bit. if it isn't turning...

z3davis · 10-07-2006, 10:26 AM

nynor I ran a search through 10 pages of your posts and could not find the thread,

Eldorado · 10-07-2006, 11:45 AM

on the first page after searching for 'timing belt' under nynor's nickname..

timing belt self destructed

Slam · 10-07-2006, 01:24 PM

After making sure your t-belt is okay, unplug the coil wire and lay it near a good ground, then crank the engine. You'll hear a definite 'snap!' every time the coil fires, but don't crank too long. If it's not firing, you're closer to solving the problem. Also, while cranking you should be able to hear the fuel injectors clicking - plug the coil wire back in so you don't hear it over the sound the injectors make. Could be a bad ignition switch, too. I take it the tach is bouncing as you crank?

z3davis · 10-07-2006, 01:43 PM

tach is not bouncing- where is the fuel filter located on an 83---I can not find it

nynor · 10-07-2006, 03:14 PM

its back by the passenger side rear axle. looks like a silver canister.

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

If the tach still isn't bouncing, then the fuel filter is not the problem. Do a search for "five minute test" from a guy called "SoCal Driver" and it will provide you a step by step approach to finding the problem...and it only takes five minutes. Let us know what you find.

z3davis · 10-08-2006, 06:15 PM

razor I searched and could not find the thread by Socal driver--does anyone have a link to it? I was out at a family party all day, but I would like to get it fixed tomorrow.. I charged the battery in the car today the cold cranking amps were down a bit--put it in hoping it would make a difference and nothing--I did hear the fuel pump kick on when the key was in and i turned itso that is good -- rules out that relay. rules out a bad battery--I need the 5 minute list so I can check the rest.

Razorback1980 · Razorback1980's Garage

Actually, the DME relay controls more than the fuel pump as there are two circuits in the relay, so hearing the fuel pump run only proves one circuit is working...the other circuit would be the one associated with the tach jumping. Do this and repost and hopefully SoCal Driver will hop in and help out as I am not familiar with the early models.

Ok, so another stolen quote from SoCal Driver....

Go through the five minute quick test.

Check for power at the coil and at the injectors with the key on.

No power at the coil it's the ignition switch or related wiring.

No power at the injectors it's the DME relay.

Power at the coil and injectors points to a bad reference sensor. The connector may be corroded and/or not plugged in all the way or cracked and may have broken the wires inside.

Check if the sensor is working by pulling a plug wire, inserting a spare plug, grounding the plug to the intake and cranking the engine. If there is spark then the reference sensor is working.

Could be the second set of contacts in the DME relay. These are for the fuel pump. The fuel pump should run for a half second after you stop cranking. Have someone listen for it behind the passengerside wheel well. Check the fuse for the pump too.

On the early 944's you can use an alligator clip jumper between Aux fuse #2 and #3 to run the fuel pump directly. Count from the drivers door. Don't leave the clip on.

Let's hope this helps you find the problem but if not, then repost what you find.

z3davis · 10-09-2006, 07:21 AM

ok i have spark at all the selected items above--however i pulled the wires off of the spark plugs and from fron of the car to back plug 1 and plug 3 were basically white and powdery--could this be the reason it sould not start?---I am going to replace them, but should it have started and just ran like crap? I am going to get under tha car and make sure all the fuel lines and filter are ok. my street has been under construction for a few weeks so I am thinking maybe something popped loose--unlesss it is the plugs.