Porsche 944s Head Issue

Marcone · 11-08-2006, 02:39 PM

Hi.. im currently in the middle of removing my engine..and i noticed on a few part numbers on the head that they start with 928.xxx.xx etc

Could it be possible i have a 928 head? on an 87 944s?

anyone know please let me know

Marcone

OH AND ps.. if anyone has a good idea for easily removing exhaust manifolds (with no regard for them because theyre being replaced) please let me know. I was hopeing to take them out with the engine but the attachment to the y pipe is hard to get at.. do i only have removing one bolt at a time at the head left as an option?

jgp0rsche · 11-08-2006, 02:52 PM

No, you don't have a 928 head on your 944S. But since the 944S head and the 32V 928s have basically the same cylinder heads, lots of the parts are the same. Just like the 8V 944/951 has some of the same parts as the 16V 928s. It only makes sense for companies that mass products to use the same parts where they can.

JivenJim · 11-08-2006, 02:56 PM

There's some 928 numbers on 944's.

I'd leave the Header on till I removed the engine. I disconnect at the 4-2 pipe. That's tuff to get to them 13mm nuts and bolt. U-joint on the ratchet and rotating metric closed end wrenches are my hero's. That and alot of WD-40 on bolts for a few hours before.

Also don't think if you had a Full Exhaust in there with Header off engine but still in the area; Don't think you could get the engine or Exhaust out at that point.

Techno Duck · Techno Duck's Garage

You can probably take the headers and the cylinder head off as once piece, just unbolt them at the flange. If you want to take the clyinder head and exhaust off as two parts, you probably will have to double nut the exhaust studs and turn them out.

Marcone · 11-08-2006, 04:30 PM

Ok.. so i have to get to the first set of nuts(13mm nuts).

obviously i will have to get the book for the rebuild..but taking it out i want to see if i can wing it... used the book on my bmw.. and figure i can do it by common sense now.

does any one have a tip for removal. I know this much it goes out the bottom... im assuming just the wiring, sway bar, rad and hoses have to be removed. then undo the cross member drop down and undo the torque tube? or torque tube and then drop? do the alternator/ac/powersteering need to come out first.. or do they just go along for the ride easily?

one thing i need to know.. will the car need to be on jacks till i have it back together? or is there a way to leave it on the wheels even though the cross member is out?

hopefully thats all i have to ask

dan476 · 11-08-2006, 05:00 PM

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/eng-01.htm

Marcone · 11-08-2006, 05:17 PM

FRIGGIN AMAZING.. ive been looking all day for this stuff..

THANK YOU

marcone

JivenJim · 11-08-2006, 08:04 PM

Clark is the Man. How do we thank him!

Also this had some go info for out the bottom
http://944s3.com/chapter3.shtml

I use a good D Ring on the Back left Head O Clip and and a 17mm Bolt to lift bracket L bracket on the front right side of head that attaches to engine mount arm. Rolling from under on about 5 foot Wooden Doles worked for me.

a manual link
http://www.porsche-club.ru/Tech/repair/Haines/01_Engine01.htm

Marcone · 11-08-2006, 08:28 PM

Thanks for the links... they are quite informative..ill check em out tonight...

i posted another one as well if u could give info that would be great.. u seem to know much about these cars.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-924-944-968-technical-forum/314086-heres-one-more-bout-944s.html#post2917877

Marcone

oh.. ps i dont have a clue what youre referencing in teh post above... haha...

JivenJim · 11-08-2006, 08:42 PM

4-2 means the header section that bolts on infront for the Cat converter. (four runners to 2) then befor the the Cat it usully goes 2 to 1. Help alot to have someone but your seem to have some good helper on this forum. Let us know if anything is in question.

PS. Sweeeet looking emerald 44!!!

Marcone · 11-08-2006, 09:01 PM

Thanks for the quick reply.. i know what the 4-2 means... i just didnt understand waht you were referencing with this...

"I use a good D Ring on the Back left Head O Clip and and a 17mm Bolt to lift bracket L bracket on the front right side of head that attaches to engine mount arm. Rolling from under on about 5 foot Wooden Doles worked for me."

p.s the green one isnt mine.. no idea who's it is.. they were just showing me what the "original" colour of my car was.

Marcone

JivenJim · 11-09-2006, 08:24 AM

For hoist attachment points, I use a good D Ring (a chain link coupler found at any hardware store) attached to the Back left Head O Clip (that the shinny metal O ring and remove 1 of 4 17mm Bolts on the front right side of head that attaches to engine mount arm. If your Engine has a front O Ring clip so, You can use that instead of the attaching the Bolt like a mentioned.
Once you support (lift) engine then you remove the Cross member/steering rack. Also don't forget to disconnect the 2 Heater exchange hose in the back of engine to Firewall. Steering Rack is a Pain to remove Coupler and Tie Rods. Some guys don't remove Steering rack. They just roll it forward and then pull the engine sideways out the wheel. Never tried so..
Also you could go out the Top. Search for these Topics as its been explained and debated Alot.
Then I lower engine on the ground. I like to use about five, 3 foot x 1 inch dia wooden rods to roll the engine Out from under the car (Egyptian technique) Some guys slide on carpet or heavy Cardboard. Lots a ways to do it, just have a helper handy.
Hint: Also before you remove Engine, Put car in gear with parking brake on, loosen the 24mm Crank Bolt in the Center of the main pulley. It can take up to 200 ft/lbs so use the breaker bar. But that can save you alot of trouble later when you break down the engine.
Ask the questions if anything is not clear.