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Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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1983 944 Euro Block Question

Hi,

My name is Darcy and I own a 1983 944 European model. I purchased it 3.5 years ago with ~ 60,000 miles. It now has ~ 100,000 miles and in need of some engine work.

It burns oil presumably from cylinder #1 because the #1 spark plug is frequently oily (#2 , #3, #4 cylinders are good) and oil gathers in the bottom of the airbox too. FYI - The engine doesn't knock and I don't let in run low on oil.

I'm doing some research and formulating a plan to rebuild the motor. I've read some threads about the honing of a block with a stone causing the abrasive removal of aluminum / silicon siding of the cylinder walls resulting in having to resleave the cylinder walls.

What are other engine block honing solutions and procedures opposed to honing with a stone?

While I have the engine disassembled, what do you recommend I replace? The rod bearings have ~ 5,000 miles and were change a little over a year ago, is it recommended that I change those again as well? From Previous posts on here, I require, rings, bearings, oil cooler kit, gaskets, front engine seals..did I miss anything?

Thanks,
Darcy

Old 02-25-2007, 08:42 AM
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A lot of that will be determined once the motor is apart. I would first check the head, have it removed without removing the motor from the car and check the valve guides and seals. You may only need that seeing that you only have one cylinder that is pumping oil. Once you have the head off you can examine the cylinders and measure them to see how much wear they have or maybe a scorn cylinder wall. You may not need to go any further, just a head rebuild. I would first suspect the head as these cylinders usually will last for 150,000 to 200,00 miles if cared for properly. If you do need the motor rebuilt I would suggest you have the cylinders boared 0.010 over stock size and replace the pistons and all bearings even though you have already replaced the mains I would again. You will want to rebuild the head any way so if you pull the head now while it is still in the car you may save a lot on money. At this point it is always a good time to replace water pump and belts, check all sensors and clean throttle body.
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1983 Porsche 944 Silver with Brown Interior.
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1968 Honda CT-90
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Old 02-25-2007, 09:38 AM
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Before I start taking the motor apart, is there a way to test if only the head needs rebuilding or if the issue is piston/ring related?
Old 02-25-2007, 10:29 AM
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sure, hook up some compressed air to a spark plug adapter, see where the air is leaking by (rings, intake, or exhaust.) If the rings are tight your oil issue is probably a valve guide or seal.

nate
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:31 AM
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The first thing to do is a compression check with a leak down test. The engine may not need rebuilt at all. The oil you are seeing in the airbox is very common and it's often caused by a leaking o-ring on the oil filler spout. It may be leaking oil into the airbox and you are burning it through there. The tests you need to run require the engine to be together, so don't tear it down yet. If you are not familiar with the tests, then take it to a garage and they will run them for you...it shouldn't cost much as the plugs are easy to pull and the tests only take a few minutes. The garage should be able to tell you if it's the rings or valves by doing those tests as well.

The process to renew cylinder walls is a special one and a regular cylinder hone will indeed destroy them. I have talked to many garages that said they knew how to do them but when I asked them about alusil...they had no clue what I was talking about. The process requires a special tool and not many garages will have it. I found only ONE in the city of Houston. Porsche recommends that you wash the cylinders with soap and a pressure washer unless they show signs of wear which they probably will not at only 100,000 miles. These engines last a long time.

There are a couple of guys from somewhere around you that have done extensive work to their cars and may be able to give you the name of places that can perform this procedure if you need it. The guys are ae1969 and JustinL...I am sure they wouldn't mind providing those names.
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Last edited by Razorback1980; 02-25-2007 at 05:44 PM..
Old 02-25-2007, 05:38 PM
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I did not know that Porsche had anything like nicasil, hum learn something every day on this board. I did not think they had this process in those days, but you know those germans, ahead of their time.
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1983 Porsche 944 Silver with Brown Interior.
2005 Honda Goldwing
2000 Husaberg 400
2001 Sherco 2.9
1968 Honda CT-90
2001 Arctic Cat 500 Auto
1998 Toyota PU
2001 Toyota Highlander AWD
1991 Tiffin Motorcoach
2006 Suzuki 450 Super Motar
Old 02-25-2007, 06:26 PM
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Hi Razorback1980,
Thanks. I think that you are absolutely correct in that the oil originates from the leaky o-rings on the oil filler spout as you and earlier Techno Duck have validated for me.
The last compression test was between ~140 and ~150, a new Oil Pressure Relief Valve, and new rod bearings and I was wonder why I was continually adding so much oil until now!!!
:-)
Darcy


Quote:
Originally posted by Razorback1980
The first thing to do is a compression check with a leak down test. The engine may not need rebuilt at all. The oil you are seeing in the airbox is very common and it's often caused by a leaking o-ring on the oil filler spout. It may be leaking oil into the airbox and you are burning it through there.
Old 02-25-2007, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by BrianT
I did not know that Porsche had anything like nicasil, hum learn something every day on this board. I did not think they had this process in those days, but you know those germans, ahead of their time.
Actually, the Germans were not the first to use Alusil engines. That was engineered and produced by GM in the 70s when they introduced the Vega. The procedure to revamp the cylinder walls cost more than the car did , so it wasn't successful for them.

Not sure who engineered the nicasil engines and I'm not sure if that technology works differently or not. Nicasil might be a coating where Alusil isn't..but again, I'm not sure about the nicasil.

Darcy, depending on your leakdown numbers, it might be better to fix any leaking o-rings and similar problems and see if the problems don't go away. That's a lot easier and cheaper than a rebuild.

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1990 944S2 Cabriolet
2002 Chevy Silverado 2500HD
2003 Maroon Ford F350 dually

Last edited by Razorback1980; 02-25-2007 at 08:28 PM..
Old 02-25-2007, 08:22 PM
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